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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 04:09 PM
  #1  
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Default stealth install

ok... 07 1lt. starting to plan out the radio install. new head unit with all the bells/whistles ect.
heres the question... i want a complete stealth install no wires showing or visable mods to doors/pillars. no sub box in back no amp to be seen (heard but not seen) no sat antenna visable. it just has to sound good nobody but me needs to know whats there (obviously they will see the head unit).

what kinda range can i get from behind the stock door panels? what can i fit in there? recomendations? good place to hide the amp/amps?

let me have it. have a field day

ps already looked through FAQ's
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 04:20 PM
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Hmm, how much do you want to spend? DVD/Nav head unit or just regular CD/radio? HD radio? You mentioned sat already. What type of music do you listen to? How comfortable are you with adding weight to the car?

If you want solid audio output and not put a sub in the car you are going to have to spend some decent money on a high power amp for your components and A LOT of sound deadening for your doors.

Help us help you.

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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 04:22 PM
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Do you want bright, lively, detailed speakers? Or more mellow, laid back, easy to listen to speakers?

mho, laid back is the way to go if you listen to a lot of metal/rock/etc. Forward speakers in combination with a lot of electric guitar makes my ears hurt.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 04:44 PM
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I'll add to what's already been said by tellin ya that stealth and a sub are incompatible in a C6. There's no storage area like there is in a C5 where you can make it level with the floor. Closest you can get to stealth is a corner box along the lines of the JL Stealthbox. The rest of the install, stealth isn't a problem at all.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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Amps can be installed either behind/under the seats or in the cargo area with proper active cooling.

There's enough room behind the doors to mount a decent sized xover, but i'd stay away from anything larger.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 08:08 PM
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so far i like the dialog. let me fill in the some blanks. listen to rock/alternative no rap/hip hop (not that theres anything wrong with that ) the head unit will hopefully be tuner/cd/mp3/dvd/nav/xm all in one. budget isn't big deal but my ear isn't THAT good (aka not willing to waste money i can't hear).

looking for crisp, properly staged, acusticaly (sp) correct, tunes.
its not a vert so volume is not a real big deal

i guess i'm not looking for specific model components... that will come with time. looking for a block diagram of how you would set it up. sizes/locations/ rough power requirements/ect...

(secretly i'm concerned if i can get quality base range from a door? last car had a nice custom 10" box in the trunk)

willing to add SOME weight to the car but i will be watching how much dynamat i throw at it.

Last edited by nytrail; Apr 16, 2007 at 08:30 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 08:25 PM
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with the right power and sound deadening in the doors, you can get some decent bass out of components. I was surprised when tunning mine with the subs off, how much kick was coming from the 6.5's.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 08:32 PM
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is there enough air/room in the door to go bigger then 6.5's?
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 10:46 PM
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some have gone as big as 8 or 9" in the doors, but they have to put the tweeters some where else, like door pulls or in the a-pillars.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 11:40 PM
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A complete dynamat extreme install will add ~50lbs.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by nytrail
is there enough air/room in the door to go bigger then 6.5's?
Originally Posted by DPG
some have gone as big as 8 or 9" in the doors, but they have to put the tweeters some where else, like door pulls or in the a-pillars.
The problem with going bigger than a 6.5" is getting a tweeter that will crossover low enough to match an 8" driver. Fitting a 3 way in the door space requires quite a bit of work and you have to separate the drivers quite a bit, which isn't ideal. I have a pair of 6.5" Focal 2-ways in my doors and they deliver an amazing amount of bass. It's punchy bass, not that knuckle-draggin hairy kind of low bass that you'd get from a sub, but there's still plenty of it.

DPG's comments seem to be C5 oriented, as there aren't door pulls in a C6, we just get electronic buttons. However there is a location in the upper door panel where the stock 3.5" driver is located. I have my tweets there right now, but I'm getting ready to mess around with placing them down in the lower section as they're right in my ear and can become quite fatiguing. Time to figure out whether it's level, location or tweet.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
The problem with going bigger than a 6.5" is getting a tweeter that will crossover low enough to match an 8" driver. Fitting a 3 way in the door space requires quite a bit of work and you have to separate the drivers quite a bit, which isn't ideal. I have a pair of 6.5" Focal 2-ways in my doors and they deliver an amazing amount of bass. It's punchy bass, not that knuckle-draggin hairy kind of low bass that you'd get from a sub, but there's still plenty of it.

DPG's comments seem to be C5 oriented, as there aren't door pulls in a C6, we just get electronic buttons. However there is a location in the upper door panel where the stock 3.5" driver is located. I have my tweets there right now, but I'm getting ready to mess around with placing them down in the lower section as they're right in my ear and can become quite fatiguing. Time to figure out whether it's level, location or tweet.
Thanks Komoman, I keep forgetting about the diff setup on the c6. Good catch.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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You could put together your own 3 way setup, using say a 7" midbass, a 2-3" home derived midrange (all in the factory 10" cutout) and a set of tweets in the upper door area. Another option would be a very compact tweet in the a pillars with the midrange up in the 3.5" factory spot, which would then allow you to run as large a speaker in the door as you want up to 10". My recommendation however would be to not go above 8" on the midbass and not try and play them below about 50hz much or you will find out exactly how many items in the door assembly can rattle, and how much resonance even a fiberglass door can have Even when deadened extensively. Plan on a minimum of 1 layer inside the door, 2 layers outside on the skins to try and get away without a sub and still get some good output in the bass range.


Fej
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