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Biggest C5 Door Speaker?

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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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Default Biggest C5 Door Speaker?

What is the largest/deepest speaker that will fit in the C5 door? What is the limiting factor for speaker depth (i.e. what's in the door limiting this)?

I realise a 6x9 would probably fit OK, but I'm interested in doing an 8" sub/midbass if possible.

Thanks!
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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Try the FAQ.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 06:14 PM
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An 8" sub/midbass can be done but trimming of the panel may be required.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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8" midbass can be done ... check the faq out for pictures and clearances. You run out of room behind the factory grill quickly with an 8" however and most 8's do not work very well in a 2 way system unless you go with a large format home derived tweet.

G'luck
Fej
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Old Apr 27, 2007 | 08:49 AM
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doing an 8"/4" midbass/midrange combo along with the 1" tweeter in mine. The 4" gets blocked a bit by the door panel, but it should be fine.

I've built an adapter for a 10", but the mounting depth is only about 4". May tackle that this weekend.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1685129
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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Thanks guys!
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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I'm doing a set of Dynaudio 3-ways (362---8/3/1) by the end of next week. I'll try to take pictures and give depth measurements at that point.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DSSA
I'm doing a set of Dynaudio 3-ways (362---8/3/1) by the end of next week. I'll try to take pictures and give depth measurements at that point.

Nice.

Here's a pic of the 342s. If you mount the mid like this, its a lot easier.



The 8 will be tough without trimming fiberglass. - Because of the Dyn basket shape. Good luck, looking forward to pics.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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I had a 8inch sub plus 3.5inch mid/high in the last iteration of my system. I'll look for a pic or two. No trimming or cutting was required.
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Old May 6, 2007 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale
Nice.

Here's a pic of the 342s. If you mount the mid like this, its a lot easier.



The 8 will be tough without trimming fiberglass. - Because of the Dyn basket shape. Good luck, looking forward to pics.


Unfortunately, I got disgusted before I finished the 4th design on the speaker panels. Next time I have the panels off, I'll get photos.

However, the end result is that the 362s fit fine in the door with the correct speaker panel made out of 1/2" MDF. The placement is very similar to yours, however, the tweeter is moved outward from the other two in it's own section of MDF (just a circular cutout and about 1/2" towards the back from where your's is mounted).

The 8's however, just dropped right in. The only trimming I had to do was 3 small drill holes for the tweeter's positive/negative/mounting posts to go though.

I'm still waiting on my last amp to come in (ironically, the one for the fronts) on tue/wed. to be able to fire it all up. =\
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Old May 6, 2007 | 08:25 PM
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I'm glad to hear the 8s worked out. Did you mount the midrange through the baffle, with the bottom hole lined up with the top of the midbass?


Also, forget about putting the tweeters in the doors. Those puppies need to be in the a-pillars, and fairly on axis. They roll off FAST.

Off axis, the response of the tweeters is 4k-10k, they drop completely off and you lose 10-20k.

How much power will you feed them? 200, 300 each?
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Old May 6, 2007 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale
I'm glad to hear the 8s worked out. Did you mount the midrange through the baffle, with the bottom hole lined up with the top of the midbass?


Also, forget about putting the tweeters in the doors. Those puppies need to be in the a-pillars, and fairly on axis. They roll off FAST.

Off axis, the response of the tweeters is 4k-10k, they drop completely off and you lose 10-20k.

How much power will you feed them? 200, 300 each?
I'm powering the fronts with a JL 300/2.

I wanted to keep the speakers grouped together as much as possible to avoid imaging problems.

This car is somewhat of a PITA to do IMHO. I want decent sound, however, I refuse to add any more weight then neccesary. I would have done custom kickpanels, but it's somewhat tight on the driver's side as it is, and with the layout, not as effective as in somehing with a less "laid-down" interior layout.

I'm going to see how it sounds and live with it at this point. Over the winter I might make some changes and build some enclosures for the 8s while I have it down to build the motor and build a turbo system for the car. As it is now, it's been down for almost 2 weeks torn apart in my shop and I'm getting itchy to drive it again.
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Old May 6, 2007 | 11:00 PM
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As long as you maintain an equal distance between the midrange and tweeter, imaging will be good, despite the tweeter being a foot or two away from the midrange.

mho, my imaging was much better when I put the tweeter high.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale
As long as you maintain an equal distance between the midrange and tweeter, imaging will be good, despite the tweeter being a foot or two away from the midrange.

mho, my imaging was much better when I put the tweeter high.

For the last two days, I've been letting the system break in the speakers in the shop with a battery charger on it.

Either I am just getting used to it, or I swear these things get better with some use. (which should happen, but the difference is phenomenal)

Still have to completely tune the whole thing in (highs are still subject to debate compared to the Competition Quarts (now, "Q series") that I'm used to) but I'm not as disappointed as I was originally.

People like me with their damn "instant gratification" are horrible. =\
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Old May 8, 2007 | 08:31 PM
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My Dyns are flatter with NO Eq work, than my Focals were with significant EQ work. And thats with an 18 band geq plus 7 band true parametric.

They do change in sound somewhat as you run them.

Dynaudios will give you smooth realistic highs, but roll off quickly off axis. Unlike the MBQ, which, mho, are colored and overly bright.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale
Dynaudios will give you smooth realistic highs, but roll off quickly off axis. Unlike the MBQ, which, mho, are colored and overly bright.
Most definitely. I've always loved the quarts, but the Ti dome tweeters are either your best friend or your worst enemy.

I sold my 6.5 Q-series components that I was going to use in the car to a friend of mine who just installed them today. We definitely have to dampen them a bit, but otherwise, the component set sounds unreal for a $325 component set.

I will have to say that comparing the Dyn crossovers to the Quarts is like comparing a 10 second Mitsu to a Ferrari. The Quart Q crossovers are a work of art.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DSSA
I'll try to take pictures and give depth measurements at that point.
Already did that... check the C5 FAQ.

Mark
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Old May 12, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale
My Dyns are flatter with NO Eq work, than my Focals were with significant EQ work. And thats with an 18 band geq plus 7 band true parametric.

They do change in sound somewhat as you run them.

Dynaudios will give you smooth realistic highs, but roll off quickly off axis. Unlike the MBQ, which, mho, are colored and overly bright.

Kale,

Don't let me doubt you again without smacking some sense into me.

The highs located in the doors (while the "correct" idea in "imaging") are pathetic at best. I almost wish I had the Quarts and had to tone them down a bit.

I'll be re-doing the doors today with plates minus the cutout for the highs and relocating them. They sound so muted otherwise.

Mid-bass? Unreal. Just no definition with them located down there.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fasthotrod
Already did that... check the C5 FAQ.

Mark
Thanks, Mark!

Saves me some time today while I'm re-doing the doors!
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Old May 12, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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Kale,

Do you have any pictures of where you mounted your highs in the a-pillars? I tore mine back down today, and the a-pillars look like a crapload of trimming underneath to flush-mount.

Thanks!

Josh
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