Ok this has probably been asked a few times in the past, but anyway..

The car is a 99' Coupe...I just put in a avic-z2 (still doing the bezel for it) and of course the bose sucks.
I am going to go with two 10" subs (seperate boxes right behind seats)
Im wondering what to do with the doors and even the rear speakers.
Should I go with components in the doors..say 6.5', 4' and tweeter and leave the rears empty....or go with a 2-way in the doors and 6.5 in the back? Seems kinda pointless tho with two subs right there.

I want a clear good sounding system.

Thanks for any and all help

Oh, I will be going with either JL or Focal most likely, unless otherwise recommended.

 

seperate boxes behind the seats??

 

Yeah, I seen a member on here in a c6 with the setup I really like, Ill try and find the thread

 

If you can afford the 3 ways i'd go for them then mount your tweets in the A pillar. I've had no experience with Focal, but it's pretty popular here. JL makes excellent subwoofer/amps and i assume the same for their speakers (although a little pricy)

 

Here is the c6 i was talking about, I thought they were seperate but htey are not.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...hlight=c6+subs

 

I wouldn't suggest a 3 way set for a beginner.

get out to as many stores as possible and listen to as many sets as you can

 

Id like to but theres only one car audio place here, and a couple places that sell stuff but are more clueless than I am. Its only a small town. I work everyday so I cant drive the 250kms to check out other stuff.

 

that C6 is a sweeet install! I remember seeing it before now.. I would also suggest just a nice $100 pair of coax or maybe 3 way speakers for the fronts. I left the rear speakers connected for a little fill sound faded to the front mostly, but it makes it sound better IMO and no reason to drop another $100 on rear speakers...

Where are you going to get a box like that made?

 

This town is an Oil town, so its mainly full of people NOT raised here, And theres more Newfys (Newfoundland'ers) than you can shake a stick at, MY neighbour is pretty good at that kinda stuff and Ive built a few boxes before, so has my roommate so we might tackle it, Or Ill have a shop in Edmonton build it for me, not sure yet.

Also, Out of curiosity why dont you say 3 way set for beginners?

 

My opinion is components and 3-ways are better powered by an additional amp. I think you get better real sound quality off the h/u power with coax's-cause they don't need as much power obviously.

 

True,
I was planning on using one amp for the doors and another amp for just the 2 subs.

 

Why is that? And what is a beginner? Meaning, what differentiates a beginner from someone who is ready for a set of 3-ways? Just curious.

 

with 3 ways you can often end up with a lot of hot spots that will make the system sound bad. Imaging is more difficult the more sources you have as well. And, they are more difficult to install properly. Throwing all the speakers into the door is not the way to take advantage of it. (Though I will readily admit to having my dome mids in my doors right now.)


Of course if you are a total beginner, you might not recognize these problems and like it anyway.

 

What I would recommend is just a real nice set of 2way components and ditch the rears unless you are going for a dvd/movie experience setup, then just a nice set of 2way coaxials in the rear powered off the HU. Unless you are really interested in learning a lot about audio, it takes a lot of time to learn audio in a car environment, then go for the 3way setup. The 2way I would compare to a plug and play setup where as the 3way will take more time to find the right location for the tweeters and take more time tunning as well. I would love to go with a 3way setup, but I just don't have the funds for one right now and more importantly, I don't have the time to play and learn.

 

I think the issue here is the refernce to three ways. Kale is talking about three piece components and the difficulty placing and adjusting them for best sound. I believe everyone else is referring to 3 way coaxials (triaxials?). Those are easy, just stick them in. Not as good sound quality though.

 

Somehow I forgot about the gimmicky 3 way coaxials. And everyone else should too.


Tell us what you want it to sound like. Don't say "i want it to sound good"

Say something like"

I want tight, thin, realistic midbass, with pronounced vocals and lots of top end to make electric guitars and cymbals and **** jump out of the stage and have a lot of impact."

or:

"I want boomy, excessive midbass with decent vocals, and soft, laid back electric guitars so they are only a minor feature"

 

Haha easy Kale, laymans terms bro

3 way refers to 3 seperate drivers convering the vast majority of the frequency range of music. At least in Kale's original post that was what was intended. 2 way or 3 way is generally used to describe only what is in your front stage, as the assumption is made that you have subs playing the sub bass range.

For anyone that does not consider themselves an audiophile, or at least an 8 out of 10 on the audio nut scale, then 3 ways are a bad idea generally. Please don't even think about anything advertised as a "3 way speaker", they are crap ... and when I say crap I mean a waste of money as you will NEVER get 3 "ranges" of music from a single driver with any sort of accuracy or authority, especially in a car environment.

For the average person, a 4 channel amp with built in crossovers putting at least 300w to the bass along with a nice set of front components in 6.5"/tweet sizes and a decent HU will satisfy a large amount of listeners. You really need at least 75w per side to your front components in a vette IMO especially when you are running them through the passive crossovers that are included in the set. Set your sub at around 80-90hz, your midbass high pass point on the amp at the same and read some of the gain setting conversations that have gone on on the boards here and you are gtg, just ALWAYS start at minimum with the gains on any amp for any speakers.

A well planned out 3 way front stage can work very well in a vette, however it takes an "active" set up with good power behind it to work well. Active referring to the ability to electronically control and adjust at minimum each pair of speakers and their individual crossover points and slopes. If you have some knowledge about audio and how drivers work, then IMO it is the only way to go. But again for the vast majority of people listening to their cars .. it is too much and they are better off with the KISS method.

This reply is getting long, so I will wrap it up with listen to as many component sets as you can .. feel free to read the reviews at diymobileaudio.com ... and I am a big fan of the Focal polykevlar line, and the Utopia line as well ... however for the money I do not think you could pick up a better set of components than the Pioneer 720prs set that they are currently selling in the $250 ball park. I am putting a set of these in my truck right now, however they do need IMO 100w RMS per side to really shine.

G'luck
Fej

 

I would recommend Infinity for the sub and component speakers. Infinity or Alpine for a decent amp. This will provided a good overall sound for the money.
There are more expensive options like Focal, SEAS, MB Quartz for the component speakers, but the price really starts to jump. Same with the sub.

 

I wanted clear, mid level volume, and most of all ease of installation. I did 1-ED 4 channel amp, 2 way components in the doors, and a sub box/partition built by BADMFR that holds 2 10" ED subs. I love it. Sounds great! I love the partition box, because I wanted a partition anyways to reduce noise from the back end. Now I killed 2 birds w/ 1 stone, for less money! (less than a sub box & separate partition). For me, the perfect setup!

 

Focal Access line (cheapest) is definitely worth the price difference over any infinity speaker available.