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C6 speaker size question ??

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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 12:49 AM
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Default C6 speaker size question ??

After installing Pioneer D3 in my C6 (Non bose) I want to replace all of my speakers. Door speakers are making noise and need to replace them asap.
What are the sizes of all speakers that should/could be replaced:
Front/door 3.5" and rear 5.5" and center ?". Also are there additional door speakers 8" .. ?? a little confused after reading some archive posts.
Also any recommendations ?? Thank you!!
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by dachy
After installing Pioneer D3 in my C6 (Non bose) I want to replace all of my speakers. Door speakers are making noise and need to replace them asap.
What are the sizes of all speakers that should/could be replaced:
Front/door 3.5" and rear 5.5" and center ?". Also are there additional door speakers 8" .. ?? a little confused after reading some archive posts.
Also any recommendations ?? Thank you!!

Fronts and Center are 3 1/2 inch speakers, rears are 5 1/4 inch speakers.

Doors are either 8 inch or 10 inch (Bose).

Most people cut off the center and just use the rears, use a template for the fronts to be tweeter in the 3.5 space and a 6 1/2 in the lower door and use a sub in the rear...

Hope this helps...
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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Great ... Thanks so much !!!
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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Look for a guy on this forum, pipedreams, he sells the correct size "mounting adapters" to mount the separate speakers in the front. Much easier and very well made...
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 06:16 PM
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A jigsaw or a rotozip and some 1/4 mdf you can make your own set of baffles in minutes and put in whatever size u want
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Old Jul 1, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
A jigsaw or a rotozip and some 1/4 mdf you can make your own set of baffles in minutes and put in whatever size u want
You get what you pay for, and 1/4" MDF is crap under nearly all circumstances. The pre-cut plates are most certainly worth the money.
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 12:27 AM
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And explain to me how 1/4 is crap especially considering its not being driven by an external source
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 09:31 AM
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* MDF is horribly prone to absorbing moisture
* 1/4" MDF isn't thick/dense enough to avoid vibration at audible frequencies
* MDF is prone to changes based on humidity and temperature
* MDF gives up screw threads rather easily, and 1/4" more so than standard 3/4"
* quality control over MDF grades is less-than-consistent


* Canvas Phenolic is none of these things


I've built baffles out of all sorts of materials ranging from MDF/foam composites to ABS/PVC to cast concrete. MDF's place at the bottom of the list (in a car environment) is quite secure. The fact that canvas phenolic is considerably more expensive has nothing to do with whether or not it's a better choice than MDF.
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