As many of you know, I have sold my C5 (guy picks it up tomorrow). I sold it with the system in it, so I am buying all new for my C6 Convertible. Here is what I am planning:

Head Unit: Kenwood DNX7100 w/ Bluetooth and Ipod Video
Front Speakers: Polk Audio Momo MMC6500 (Already have them)
Rear Speakers: Surely you're joking
Subwoofer: JL Audio 10W7 (loved it in my C5)
Front Speaker Amp: Alpine PDX-4.150
Sub Amp: Alpine PDX-1.600

Install Details:

I am having the system installed by the same Car Toys shop that did my C5. They did a great job. They charge a lot but, in the long run, it is worth it to me.

I am going to try the Polk Momo speakers because I already have them on hand. I purchased them for the C5 and then got talked into Focal 3-ways. I liked the Focals, but never got the volume out of them that I did from the Momo's (for the 4 days they were installed). If the sound quality does not make me happy, I will replace them with the Polk Audio SR6500 set. We are going to bi-amp the speakers with the 4-channel Alpine. The speakers will be mounted with the mid-woofer in the bottom of the door and the tweet in the 3.5" upper door location to start (may experiment with other locations as well).

I was planning on going with the JL Audio Stealthbox for the convertible C6s. This puts the speakers in the dead space between the back seat and the top stowage. They were going to cost about $800. Car toys offered to custom build a fiberglass enclosure to fit in the same area with the 10W7 for $1000.00. $500 for the enclosure and $500 for the sub. I had the W7 in my last Vette and know that I'll get $200 bucks better sound for sure over those 2 8W3s. The sub will actually be positioned at an angle behind the drivers seat and the box will be covered in black carpet or vinyl...not sure which yet.

Both Amps will be mounted in the trunk partially under the convertible top divider. They will be covered with a black carpeted cover. The Amps will not be visible.

Will replace the factory battery with a Yellow Top Optima.

Not sure if I am going to have a Cap put in or not...got a little strobing on the C5, but it might have been a less than perfect ground. In this install, they are grounding back to the battery. This is actually my only big concern. I hate seeing people's cars where the lights dim with good bass hits. I had that in my C5 and will not tolerate it in the C6. I don't want to go with a higher power alternator, but will if I have too.

1. What is your opinion on Caps? I think both Scott and Fej told me last time to stay away, but I don't remember why
2. Based on the Amps, do you think the stock alternator has the power to drive them with the lights on at night?

Thanks in advance for any comments or suggestions.

Shan

 

1. I wouldn't use a cap. The C6 hasn't reported any light dimming issues that I've seen. Odds are that anything that would dim the lights would need more than a cap.

2. See #1... I think you'll be OK. You're drawing more amps than I did in my system but I never have seen a flutter with my 4.150 no matter how loud I play it.

 

I'm not too familier with the output of the C6 alternator. The description indicates that your PDX 1.600 has a 80 amp peak load and your 4.150 requires a 60 amp peak load. This is 140 amps peak power if your gains are turned to 100% and at full volume. The average non-competition joe keeps his volume at 50% or lower and the gains at around 50-70% This means that you're looking at 100 amps you'll need at the peak of a musical burst. Most of the time the music itself governs the output level and unless your'e running test tones all the time, you're probably only goign to need about 60-70 amps at a decent volume.

This being said, the late model C5 140 amp alternator can support this load. If this is the same or similar model to the C6, you should be fine.

Based on these power loads, I WOULD reccomend a cap probably in the neighborhood of 2-3 farads. The purpose of a cap is 2 things:
a) stabilize the voltage/amperage suply during brief musical bursts (symphonic hit/bass hit etc)
b) help filter out "dirty" power from the alternator. This is essential for those obsessed with super clean sound.

Keep in mind that the cap functions in the same way as a battery, one it's discharged into the syste, it has to be recharged putting a brief load on your electrical system. To run a cap i'd make sure your alternator has plenty of power.

Check with the C6 guys for alternator specs and make sure you get the peak output ratings for Idle as well as cruise.

 

I ran a pdx bridged (reportdly 500x2 by some testers) and a PDX 1.1000 that benchd at 1200w (So the system could be pulling 1800-2200 watts at any given time.)

Never even dimmed the lights once in my C5. PDX amps are super efficient, I wouldn't worry about it.


Do not get a cap, they are just more strain on your electrical system.

 

Looking at your sub setup I'd say that you probably don't need that much power to your fronts. A PDX
4.100 would be better a match for the PDX 600 and it would save you money.

That sounds HIGHLY optimistic.

 

Not really... They've benched that high. And many other amps make a lot more than the sum of the channels when bridged. Example: ARC 2100 CXL is a 100x2 amp, but puts out 380 watts bridged.

 

This is exactly the same set-up I have for my 2007 coupe, except I have Focal speakers in the doors and rear. I'm using the Kenwood DNX-7100; great system with no issues; very happy with how it incorporates my Video Ipod; Ipod located in glove box. I'm using the JL Stealthbox sub. Incidentally, the rear speakers are powered by the head unit; the door speakers and sub are powered by the Alpine 4.1. I have my Sirius receiver located where the center channel speaker was; great reception except for the occasional overpass. System was also installed by CarToys. Good luck with yours!

 

Sorry, but I just don't believe it will put out that power cleanly. That is nearly double the spec given by Alpine.

 

I have some experience with a PDX amp. I'm firmly in the crowd of skeptics.

Show me lab test results.... otherwise this spec is merely rumor and should be dismissed just the same.

 

CA&E tested them.

Anyhow, the point is, your charging system will easily support the PDX amps.

 

Let me be clear and say that I certainly can believe that the PDX line is a very good line. I've been running numerous generations of V12 amps for nearly 15 years now and they have always delivered for me. I decided to stack 2 PDX amps in my upcoming Z06 system and I'll form my own opinion on them. The V12 amps I have now are way too big (physically) for my Z06 and the small footprint of the PDX line is just what I am looking for.

That being said, 1000 clean RMS watts from a bridged PDX 4.150 does sound unrealistic. The 60A fuses the amp comes with would not be able to supply enough current to make that happen at 12V-14V. You would certainly need to up the fuse rating but that might introduce too much current into the amp and burn it out.

 

If you want to dispute CA&Es findings, tell them not me.

Anyhoo, OPs question was answered before the thread was derailed.

 

I don't believe there is a modern amp that will put out the same power at 12v and 14.4 (where the pdx line is benched at). Real world results are 13.4-14.0 at the amp anyway, which obviously reduces the amount of power produced vs the bench test.

I do however like the fact that you "can't believe that the PDX line is a very good line" and will "form your own opinion" yet you certainly have come here with zero personal experience with the product throwing the BS flag around.

I run a 4.150 and a 1.600. Benched at 164w per and 743w respectively. Having the ability to plug a 600w amp in to substitute the 1.600 tells me that the power rating is fairly accurate, although I do not have a bench myself to verify 100%. However I have real world experience with the product in question, and I am happy with its performance.

Clean power is somewhat subjective, especially in the car audio world, and even more so when referencing a subwoofer amp. I have personally heard 5 cars with pdx sub amps, 4 of which had the 1.1000. All of the 1.1000's had birthsheets stating 1140 watts or higher.

Are they the single greatest design in the history of amps? No. Will they produce 100% clean power? No but what amp does? Do they make great power vs their chassis size with reliable results? Yes and I speak from experience. In fact the vette in the near future may just end up with a pdx set up similar to the truck to save some space.

At the end of the day you are still inside a highly reflective, unbalanced space trying to get great audio results. It is all compromise

Fej

 

Actually, I said that I CAN believe that the PDX line is very good. I also said I was going to stack 2 of them in my next system. Please re-read my post.

Also, there is a modern line of amps that will put out the same power at 12v and 14.4. Many JLs use regulated power supplies.

Ohms Law pretty much dictates what is going to happen. 60A of current is not going to deliver 1000W RMS @ 14V. You need more like 80A-90A of current.

 

Thanks for all the responses guys. This gives me the data I need to meet with the installers tomorrow.

Once again, the CF Audio section comes through.

 

Ahh yes I forgot about the JL and PG lines that regulate the power supplies. I have never considered a JL amp for one of my systems

I guess I misread bro ... my bad

Fej

 

I just picked up a PDX 4.100 and a 1.600. Holy cow are these things small! I plan to start on my Z06 install in a few weeks.

I also looked up the ARC 2100 mentioned in post # 6. That amp puts out 180x2 @ 2-ohms. That explains why it goes 360x1 when bridged.