Audio/Electronics Stereo System Installation Info, Amplifiers, Subwoofers, Radar Detectors, Police Scanners, and CB Radios for the Corvette
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 12:12 AM
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Default Basic question..

First of all thanks for looking at this. I am by no means a stereo installation expert, I have put a few in "back in the day" but it has been a few years. I am helping a 16 y/o nephew install a stereo in his older
80's vintage VW Jetta, Someone had installed some sort of after market system in this years ago and pretty much butchered all of the stock systems wireing. We have identified the main wires (pos/ground/speakers) etc.. My question is first of all what would be the best way to make the connections (ie) butt connectors..etc..?
Also with our simple connections, when we turn the volume "way" up the unit shuts off, the unit also does the same thing when the headlights are turned on.. The Stereo shuts off.. Any Idea's?
Thanks in advance..
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 02:40 AM
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In my opinion, the best connection option is to solder the wires and use heat shrink tube to cover the finished connection.

I bet you are using the illumination wire as your positive. Do you still have power coming through the wire you identified as positive when the headlights are turned on? is it providing a full 12 volts?

Shan

Last edited by Shangreer; Sep 15, 2007 at 02:42 AM.
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 11:15 AM
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When you turn the volume all the way up and it shuts off it is called "clipping". The radio is going into protect mode from being over powered.

As far as connections, solder is the best, then a crimped connection with the proper Ga connections and crimping tool.
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 11:31 AM
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if the radio turns off when the headlights are on, you may have a dimmer or illumination wire instead of the actual switched ignition wire, when I put my stereo in my Mustang that was hacked from the previous owner I had the same problem. It might be easier to run a new igntion and switched ignition wire from teh fuse box or ignition harness
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by screw991le
When you turn the volume all the way up and it shuts off it is called "clipping". The radio is going into protect mode from being over powered.

As far as connections, solder is the best, then a crimped connection with the proper Ga connections and crimping tool.
'Clipping' is a short expression for a clipped wave form. It occurs when the sine wave form is clipped off at its top and bottom. It's a form of audible distortion and has nothing to do with the deck turning on and off. Shangreer and penta are correct here.
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Spkrboy
'Clipping' is a short expression for a clipped wave form. It occurs when the sine wave form is clipped off at its top and bottom. It's a form of audible distortion and has nothing to do with the deck turning on and off. Shangreer and penta are correct here.
I stand corrected, I always though it was a form of protection.
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 03:47 AM
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oh, no... if anything, it's damaging. Clipping can kill an amp... and over heat a speaker.

Ironically, from what I have read and experienced, clipping is more prevelent where power is underrated. I have rarely seen a speaker blow from too much power (of course, there are extremes, but in a good system, a 200 watt amp won't kill 175 watt speakers).
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 09:52 AM
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clipping explained visually:





a clipped signal cause the normally smooth wave to have violent stops in the top and bottom putting significant strain on the speaker especially the motor components.
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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If it's not the illumination wire, I'd bet you are experiencing a voltage drop at the radio, and it is shutting down in protection mode. Why? The VW stock wiring is too small to support the current draw of the HU.

Just saw the same thing on a Nissan Xtera. The stock wiring harness just could not support the Alpine HU's requirement. I was measuring the voltage at the HU while it was playing and sure enough, voltage would drop (about 10.09 VDC) until the HU would just shut down. Given some time for the wiring to cool down, it would turn back on.

The Nissan stock wiring was too small to support the HU, and as current went through the stock wiring it caused an increase in resistance, causing the voltage drop. I ran a fused ware directly from the battery to the HU and he's good to go.

Hope this helps.

Mark
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Fasthotrod
Just saw the same thing on a Nissan Xtera. The stock wiring harness just could not support the Alpine HU's requirement. I was measuring the voltage at the HU while it was playing and sure enough, voltage would drop (about 10.09 VDC) until the HU would just shut down. Given some time for the wiring to cool down, it would turn back on.
Haven't seen that in what seems like forever. Good call.
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 07:20 PM
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Thanks everyone for the great info.. I'm going over there tonight to try and get it fixed. I think we will have to run a wire fom the battery. I hope that will take care of the power problem.
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