Hey guys, I'm kinda new to the "Audio" section. Never did any upgrades to my music. I'd finally like it to sound better....

So, I bought used parts. Here's my list:
JL Audio 250 or 300 watts (4 chnnl) Amp.
Alpine Mono Amp (for Sub).
JL Audio 10", boxed Sub for C5.
6.5" Infinity speakers (3 ways).

Bunch of wires came with JL Audio Amp. Now the question is what more do I need to hook all this up? And will this make a decent upgrade in the sound? I'm not looking for something "extreme", or "highly modified" system. In fact, I wanna keep the OEM head unit with stock look. Also dont wanna upgrade my battery or alternator. So, what parts, and procedure I need to follow to make all this work?

I'm not very electrically inclined, so don't even know what questions to ask. Plz help.

Thanks...

 

Well, it would certainly sound different than the bose.

You aren't running enough power to make the stock electrical system even blink, so don't worry about that.

Check out the C5 Faq for info on retaining stock head unit.

 

Do the big 3 (2 or 4 gauge wire)
4 gauge amp kit
12 -14 gauge speaker wire

Let me know if I can help...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1754535

 

Add the PAC adapter if you want to keep the stock head unit.

http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pacaoemvet1.html

 

Can you provide model # for your equipment?

Here's how it works basically:

Step 1: "The Big 3" (helps to minimize voltage drop)
You'll need 4 awg wire (I like 2 colors, one for ground and one for pos)
If you're running a side post only battery, you'll need 2 terminals with bolts on the end for additional connections and 2 additional 4awg ring terminals. If you have top posts, you'll need top post terminals.
You will also need two 4 AWG grounding feet and 2 additional 4awg ring terminals.

1: measure the following lengths:
Distance from Alternator + output to battery +
Distance from Alternator mounting bolt to frame grounding point
Distance from Battery - to Frame gounding point.

You can use existing bolts that go through the frame....just make sure not to over tighten.

2. Cut the wire to the appropriate sizes then run them using the terminals as needed. I decided to drill holes in the side wall of the battery compartment but there are other ways to get the wires to the battery.



Note: the blue ground wire was later changed to silver.....that was all i had at the time.





As for Amp wiring, you will need to determine the placement of your amp and how much power they need. From the battery to the back wall of the car you'll need about 20' of wire to run it where it's hidden. Your best bet is probably a solid 4 awg wire. Make sure to get a good name brand on the wire. There is a difference:

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=147289

I reccomend two 2-way distribution blocks with your power block having fuses. This will cut down on the wire needed and give you a clean install. The most common grounds are in the side panel behind the door and the seat mounting bolt.

For mounting the amps, the most common procedure is lifting the carpet and using liquid nails to secure a MDF or plywood mounting board. Replace the carpet and mount the amp with wood screws.

Don't skimp on cheap speaker wire. <100watts per channel should get 16 awg, and most subwoofers will be happy with 12 awg wire (Monster cable is at wal mart in both sizes and works well)

For RCA cables, there's no need to go crazy, just as long as it has a fair amount of shielding, you'll be okay.




So, I bought used parts. Here's my list:
JL Audio 250 or 300 watts (4 chnnl) Amp.
Alpine Mono Amp (for Sub).
JL Audio 10", boxed Sub for C5.
6.5" Infinity speakers (3 ways).

 

The big 3 is well worth the time and 15 bucks worth of wire, IMHO.

 

guys

where do you recommend placing the amp?

Thanks

 

Spread the wealth, Where do you get enough 4 gauge wire to do all three for $15 ?

 

for the sub, the rear wall is the easiest and maintains the most cargo space.

for a multi channel, the wall behind the passenger seat with an anchor board is a simple install.

 

If its a 300w amp. Bridging 2 channels to the sub gives you 150w. I think thats pretty low for a JL 10" sub. Most use 250w to them. I have a dedicated 300w JL amp on my 10w3. And maybe 75w for each 3 way might be on the low side also. Just my opinion.

 

Here is how I did mine:





I took a piece of 1/2 MDF and cut it to replace the stock rear wall carpeted piece. I used a chisel and a router to remove some material from the rear of the board to run my power wiring and RCA's and then bolted it into place using 1/4-20 bolts/washers/nuts.

Mark