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Recently, I replaced the rear speakers (with Pioneer aftermarket 4-way speakers) but notice that the front Bose amplified speakers are louder unless I balance the sound to favor the rear speakers. So, I now wonder how I can amplify the rear speakers' output??? Needless to say, I seek the easiest and least expensive option. I wish to keep the stock HU... awhile longer. Would a 2 channel amplifier be the solution to this question? If so, which one and what additional connectors would be required (to adapt HU or speaker output wires with the amplifier)? It's been since my teen years that I have installed a car radio, amp, EQ, speakers, so details would be helpful. Thanks.
Hopefully we can get this answered for you before the torches and pitchforks come out for wanting to hear your rear speakers
I would go with a 2 channel 50x2 amplifier that has a high level input. This way you can run the rear speaker wires to the amp, then new wire from amp to speakers.
I think the factory head unit is cutting some frequencies to the rear speakers, I'm not sure which. Heard rumor it kills the midbass.
lots of info in the faq about where to run wires, where to ground, etc. I think you might need to pull ACC power for the turn on lead.
After hearing factory C5 systems, I would agree... there is some weirdness coming from back there... the highs are very harsh and the bass is muddy as hell. seems pointless.
Thanks for the info...
I became confused when I looked at some of the amps with RCA connectors because what I recalled (in my teen years) was a simple wire connection to the input and output was directly to the speakers. Now, I see all sorts of connections between several components (crossover, amps, lights... etc). Heck, in my first car, a 1976 Buick Regal V-6 Special, I simply pulled out the radio, installed an aftermarket Pioneer, hooked up a Clarion EQ, ran some wire, added some Kenwood speakers and presto... I was done. BTW, I hated that Buick Regal V-6 Special. Now, I have to contend with a 1.5 din that only has one perfect fit (as far as I have found) direct replacement - also Pioneer and if I'd like to put in a 2 din, it requires some serious modifications...none of which I have the experience - yet NOT afraid to try... I am just waiting for the "moment" to arrive.
So, why all the confusion with 100's to 1000's of watts of power? I know the obvious... I've heard the Rice Putters with their loud banging boxes on wheels.
And finally, I truly appreciate all of your input and postings because I have learned much from this forum. So, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences.
My solution works well. I added the PAC AOEM-VET1 to the HU which provides input to your after market AMP. I used a 4 channel amp. I took the HU inputs for the rear speakers to the amp and powered a pair of 6x9 tri-axicals; took the input for the front and bridged two amp channels for a sub.
The original Bose HU still drives the original speakers front a rear and the amp drives the additional rear speakers and the sub. Work great and the sound is 100x improvement.
Be careful using those PAC adapters. The ones with built-in gain controls (pots) in a little black box do NOT provide a flat response. Yellow is the reference trace, green is the output from the PAC module:
Spkrboy, Nice graph... but I am not a sound technician... I am actually a family nurse practitioner... meds, x-rays, labs, sick people... and not a (pots) or PAC kind of person - So what does it mean? I can only assume we agree or we both know that a flat EKG is BAD (and it is very BAD). But in this case a flat (pot) or PAC is good? I have no reference to it's interpretation. Please explain. Thanks. BTW, read my response with some humor - please. With all respect, thanks for your input.
Spkrboy, Nice graph... but I am not a sound technician... I am actually a family nurse practitioner... meds, x-rays, labs, sick people... and not a (pots) or PAC kind of person - So what does it mean? I can only assume we agree or we both know that a flat EKG is BAD (and it is very BAD). But in this case a flat (pot) or PAC is good? I have no reference to it's interpretation. Please explain. Thanks. BTW, read my response with some humor - please. With all respect, thanks for your input.
Bass is pretty much cut off, according to the graph. Also might lose some top end sound, but I doubt you would hear the difference.
Any deviation from a flat line is a problem unless we're talking about EQs or crossovers. In this case, as Kale points out, the bass (the left side) is attenuated (at about 8 dB/octave below 200 Hz).
The pots I referred to are little dials in the box that act as volume controls. They're a BAD thing to have, and completely unnecessary.
As Steve Germany once pointed out, it's a noise-inducing little black box.
Ah, I see the light... or hear the sound. I understand perfectly. If these responses keep up... I too will become a sound/stereo specialist - yeah, you're right... I won't. Thanks for your responses. They are greatly appreciated.
on the c5 can we get away without the pac box like on the c6 and just splice in, i kinda assumed the pac box was different between the 2 cars but maybe it isnt
For clarification, the one I looked at was for the C6. I can't say if they're the same or not inside the box. One particularly puzzling fact I found was that the response deviated with volume. At low volume it was reasonably flat. As the volume increased, the response deviations showed up and continued to get worse. It was a lot like a Loudness contour. The thing proved to me it was a piece of s***.
Komoman posted a thread about this, but I couldn't locate it... Komo?
on the c5 can we get away without the pac box like on the c6 and just splice in, i kinda assumed the pac box was different between the 2 cars but maybe it isnt
If the black box in the middle of the harnesses is the OEM-1 then that's the issue. The OEM-1 is PAC's generic module that they match harnesses on either side. I don't know the module for the C5 so I can't say either way.
Originally Posted by Spkrboy
For clarification, the one I looked at was for the C6. I can't say if they're the same or not inside the box. One particularly puzzling fact I found was that the response deviated with volume. At low volume it was reasonably flat. As the volume increased, the response deviations showed up and continued to get worse. It was a lot like a Loudness contour. The thing proved to me it was a piece of s***.
Komoman posted a thread about this, but I couldn't locate it... Komo?