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C6 Stereo Help Please.. Upgrading Stereo But...

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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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Default C6 Stereo Help Please.. Upgrading Stereo But...

i have a subwoofer and amp.... i went to stereo shop to get installed and the guy said that he DOES NOT have to hook the amp up to the head unit and rather hook the amp to the rear speaker cable wire.. DOES THAT SOUND RIGHT???????????????????????
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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If you are keeping your factory deck, that is one way of doing it..
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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the rear speakers are prly high passed liek in the C5. go to the back of the deck there are low level outputs to be tapped there and it will work just as good if not better then tapping the rear speakers
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
the rear speakers are prly high passed liek in the C5. go to the back of the deck there are low level outputs to be tapped there and it will work just as good if not better then tapping the rear speakers


They definitely are high-pass, the installer is taking the easy way out. Here's how to get low-level output from the head - print it and tell the dummys to get it done right.

http://www.lazyassgeek.com/c6-stereo...-unit-harness/
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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if after giving them the pinout info they still **** and moan about it find a better shop
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 10:39 AM
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Couldn't you use one of these to tap into your C6 HU?



http://sonicelectronix.com/item_5944_PAC+ADD-GM24.html

Seems like it would work... and you wouldn't need to tap into your stock wiring.

Mark
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 10:57 AM
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correct no need to splice anything with that harness, just solder on rca ends and your set
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Fasthotrod
Couldn't you use one of these to tap into your C6 HU?



http://sonicelectronix.com/item_5944_PAC+ADD-GM24.html

Seems like it would work... and you wouldn't need to tap into your stock wiring.

Mark
Originally Posted by pentavolvo
correct no need to splice anything with that harness, just solder on rca ends and your set


But do either of you see a typical installer bothering? Most want to do exactly as ganna described - take the easy way out regardless of the performance. At least tapping into factory wires will provide the best performance, even if it's not the prettiest solution.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Yeah honestly id just tap the wires at the headunit and not bother with the harness as an installer, unless the customer had it already and supplied/asked for it to be used.

Most installers will try to half *** it and tap the rear speakers but its not gonna work right
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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the installer would be taking the output from the blose amp as an input to the new amp, not good. also, i believe there are some different impedances between the blose amp and speakers. you are better off finding a shop that wants to do this right .
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 06:55 AM
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Having been a 12 volt guy in a past life, and a home custom installer for the last twelve years, I wouldn't let most car stereo places touch my car. I may end up doing something with the sound system after a while, but for the moment I'm going to enjoy the car as it is and lurk here. When it does get changed it will either be a very high end 12 volt operation, or more likely this old man will do it himself. :-)

Expect a higher labor bill for adding to the work of the installer. It's fair; you've added to his scope of work, even though he didn't do a good job of apprising you of the way they planned to do the work and why.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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Does this apply to a JL stealthbox as well?
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by El Puto
Does this apply to a JL stealthbox as well?
This applies to ANY subwoofer. Subwoofers are reproducing low frequencies. Rear speakers produce high(supposedly) and midrange-to-midbass frequencies and the C6 system only passes those frequencies to the rear speakers. Therefore the signals you most want to be reproduced by the sub are not present in the signal at the rear speakers. That makes them a lousy source, and that's before even getting into the fact that you're taking an inherently noisy amplified signal and converting it into a line-level signal for re-amplification....

Point made yet?
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