I'm going to install my new Christmas toy today. Anyone have a correct wiring digram for the 2 C4 harnesses? I was just going to splice all the wires and join them to the wires on the new harness with some crimp caps. I can't remember where the different colors go to. If not I guess I'll be using my multimeter to sort them out. It's a non-bose system.

New DVD


Stock Wires


Thanks

 

I found a local shop that has an install wiring harness. I'm going to pick it up tongiht. Hopefully it's color coded to the DVD player harness and that end.

 

It was the wrong install harness. I guess I may have to just splice into the factory wiring. What is the large metal box behind the factory radio? Is that a factory amp? Do I need to bypass this? Is that why the harness they gave me was incorrect?

Thanks

 

The actual radio for your Vette is in the well behind the passengers seat. That is where you need to plug in the harness for power and spekers. Your antenna lead is also there. You will need to extend all of the wires and antenna lead from there to the dash.

 

This thing? What about the harnesses that I unpluged from the factory radio?



This is what I got so far from the harness that I unplugged from the factory radio. I tested it with a multimeter. That is until one of my leads broke. I'll have to get a new one in the morning. I can't use these wires?

1st harness
Purple=12v with Ignition
Green=10v ??
Brown/White= 0v
Green/White=0v
Black/White=0v
Red/White=12v Constant
Black=Ground
Pink=0v

2nd harness
Orange=12v
Purple/White= Need to Retest
Gray/Black=0v
Gray=Dimmer 5-10v increased with light adjustment
Green/White=5v
Green=0v

 

Thats it. The plugs behind the radio are not needed, with the exception of the grey dimmer wire if the unit you are installing has an illumination lead.

 

I finally get home to check my FSM. This is what is listed for the stock in dash radio harness.

C1 12065873
7-way F micro-Pack 100 series
BLK

C2 12064980
9-way F micro-Pack 100 series
BLK

Radio Control Head Unit

---COLOR--------CKT----DESCRIPTION
1--ORN----------440-----BATTERY INPUT
2--PPL/WHT-----1382----LED CONTROL
3--GRY/BLK------1381----LCD CONTROL
4--GRY----------8-------INCANDESCENT LIGHT CONTROL
5--DK GRN/WHT--817-----SPEED COMPENSATED VOLUME CONTROL
6--DK GRN-------835-----DATA LINK
8--PPL-----------1375---IGNITION IN
9--DK GRN-------835-----DATA IN/OUT
10-BRN/WHT-----367-----LEFT AUDIO OUT
11-DK GRN/WHT--368-----RIGHT AUDIO OUT
12-BLK/WHT------372-----AUDIO COMMON
13-RED/WHT-----1364----BATTERY POWER IN
14-BLK-----------1051----RADIO GROUND IN
15-PNK-----------608----+14 VOLTS IN

It looks like I can use...
4--GRY--------For Dimmer Input
8--PPL--------For 12V Input with Ignition On
13-RED/WHT--For Constant 12V Power Source In
14-BLK--------For Radio Ground

I will still need to run new speaker wires. The FSM only lists Left and Right at the harness. I'm wondering how the front/back fade works. Maybe thats what one of those data lines is. I will also need to run the antenna line from the rear compartment reciever. The only thing I'm missing is the antenna line. I think it is the DK GRN with the description DATA IN/OUT. Thats what the wiring diagram is showing in the FSM. Anyone done it this way before? I'm going to try and finish this up today.

I will also need to get rid of the SYS display that comes up without the factory radio installed.

If I'm following the FSM wiring diagram correctly the yellow wire refered to in the transistor fix write up I found is actually the 9-DK GRN-DATA IN/OUT wire on the factory in-dash wiring harness. I got a 10v reading on this when testing with my multimeter. I think this is how it may work... I will connect one end of both resistors to the 9-DK GRN-DATA then one end of one resistor to the 2-PPL/WHT-LED CONTROL and the end of the other resistor to the 3-GRY/BLK-LCD CONTROL.

So what method does everyone use to connect the resistor? Sauder? I've had very bad luck saudering in the past. Will crimp caps work?

Thanks again for everyones help.

 

Crimp caps will work fine. Here is the fix for the SYS light: http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/dave8476/index4.shtml

 

Thanks

I'll have to wait until tomorrow to work on this. I get held up buying last minute fireworks and running to the store. I went for an hour drive today and had no sys light. I wonder if it was just the battery being drained yesterday. I had to jump it after I had the doors open most of the day working on stuff. Radio Shack only had 2.2k Ohm resistors. Maybe I won't have to deal with it after all.

 

Hey don't forget to do a full writeup on the install for reference material for teh how to area.

Also I swear I saw a converter/connector harness for sale somewhere (probably crutchfield or the likes) that allows you to tie in an aftermarket head units wiring into the stock harness so it is basically plug and play (Ya like it would really be that simple). I will see if I can find it. It might make your life a helluva lot easier than having to splice wires.

 

I'll be sure to do the write up when finished. I always take pictures along the way of most installs. The next day was freezin outside so I decided to wait for this weekend. It should be back in the 70's by Saturday. It looks like I'll have to do the SYS delete thing anyway. It does still come on but it seems to be intermittent or maybe it just shows on startup.?

 

I have heard about the sys issue before but honestly don't know enough about it to give you a proper answer. So here is a bump for you.

 

The "SYS" indicator indicated when the battery was drained. After you jumped start and drove for a while, the battery charge was resorted to proper operating levels and the "SYS" indicator did not display. When you replace the Head Unit you may or may not receive a "SYS" indication. If you do, then follow the advice referenced in the thread. I strongly suggest that you disconnect the battery while doing the rewiring associated with the installation of the new Head Unit.

 

Any updates?

 

It's Alive!!!



It's not completed yet but I have a bunch of pictures of the progress so far. More to come....

 

More pics.


I probably need to bypass the saftey.


Some install items.


Wiring diagram.


Rear Inputs.


It came with this TV antenna. Now where the heck am going to install this thing at. Maybe in the rear cargo area. I guess this won't do me much good anyway after February 2009 when everything switches to hi-def. I'll have to research how those converter boxes work.


My attempt at the SYS warning fix. It did not work probably because I used 2.2k Ohm resistors. Radio shack only carries those now. I'll be picking up the correct 2k Ohm resistors this week off the internet. I wanted to redo this a little better anyway.


Not shown here but I also wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape when done.


I used crimp caps, heat shrink tubing, and electrical tape on everything. I bought the wrong size crimp caps but they will work ok for now.

Work in progress. More to come.....

 

obviously you didn't find any harness adapters then huh?

Can't wait to see more

 

nah. The one I original bought then returned was probably for the back receiver. I could have used that one and ran all the wires back up to the front. I had no reason to remove the rear factory receiver and since GM already ran some wires to the front harness I figured why not use those. I rarely used harnesses in the past anyway. I will still have to run speaker wire to all four speakers as well as the antenna wire up to the front. I prefer to run new higher gauger wire anyway. If I wanted to install an 8" sub in the rear compartment I'd probably have to remove the receiver. I had a powered sub-woofer tube in the rear and decided to remove it after about a year or so. I just don't think it fits with what I want to do with the car. A diverse receiver and decent speakers is all I'm really looking for. I'd rather keep the weight down for speed. If I wanted high quality sound I'd have to redo the exhaust system. That's not gonna happen anytime soon.

 

 

Any finished or updated pics?????