Ok, so I may have bit off more than I can chew here. There are A LOT of wires, and after a couple hours of poking around I'm convinced I'm not even using most of them in this install.

The D3 came with an RCA connector and a power supply connector. I'm using an OEM-1 Bose adapter and not putting in new speakers. I also have no other video sources or backup camera just yet. So for right now, am I correct in assuming that I do NOT need to connect the RCA wire bundle thing at all?

It appears that nearly all of the wires can be spliced between the D3 power supply connector and the OEM-1 splice leads. Except for the ground it looks like.

There were two other smaller connectors that I yet have a place to connect them to. One is for the 10 disc changer that will no longer be used, but I can't tell which one. EDIT - Ok, I found where the 2nd connection goes, it appears the smallest of the three is the connector for the 10 disc changer... can anyone confirm this?

On the D3 connections, since I have a coupe (window antenna), do I need to do anything with the blue antenna control? Is the parking brake wire necessary to connect as well?

Am I using the high level or low level wires for the speaker connections on the OEM-1 Bose adapter? (Instructions state low level is for up to 25x4 watt stereos. Since the bose system has its own amp, albeit small, would I need to use the high level connections to the D3 speaker power wires?

Best place to tap in the speed sensor wire? (for GPS)

D3... audio guys... heeeeeeelp! As you can tell, I'm an audio noob but trying to learn.

Also, will wire crimps/heat shrink tubes be sufficient for all the splice connections?

 

Here is a little bit of what you need.

You will have to tap into the harness on the instrument cluster. You need to find the Green/white (A7-circuit 817) with a tan/white (A6-circuit 33) above it and a black (A8-circuit 150 ) below it..The other green/white (A10-circuit 357) oil temp has a blank and a gray on each side.

Im not quite sure on the window antenna I know on my vert I had to connect a swith to the antenna to control it but even in the down position the the local stations come through just fine.

The parking brake wire. You will get a message on you D3 that says you cant watch the screen unless in park and the parking brake up. all I did was connect the wire and the push the metal plate down away from the parking brake so that it reads like its in park all the time. Your connections with wire crimps and heat shrink is fine.

Use the high level wires for you connections.

Hope this helps

 

I am also taking on this project....

Where is this wire exactly? Anybody have a picture of the harness of the instrument cluster? How do we get the cluster out?... Follow vette essentials' web site about removing the cluster...

Also where was the easiest place to tap for the Reverse Input wire?


Thanks,

Justin

 

Thanks SK, basically the Green/White wire on the cluster is the vehicle speed that I need to tap to? Which harness is it exactly? I have the cluster out and there are three, but all have solid color wires.

Thanks for the info on the high level connections, at least with that I can get started now. Sounds like if I ground the parking brake wire I can avoid the safety feature.

It seems that I can use the original bose connections (through the adapter splices) for ignition/ACC and terminal power and just supply a seperate ground? I mean, it worked for the bose HU.

Archdog... from what I can tell, the reverse input wire is supposed to connect to the positive lead for the reverse lamp. My question is the same, where is that lead closer to the driver area of the car?

Can anyone also confirm which of the 3 harnesses that connect to the Bose HU is for the 10 disc changer?

fun fun fun

 

Bump. I know a lot of guys use the D3 on this forum. Did everyone get theirs installed by someone else?

 

Okay guys here is a link to a website to show you how to bypass the parking brake wire. As far as the speed sensor wire Im going to tell you that its not that important that it be hooked up. The gps still tells you how far you have gone and the wire is a pain to get to. Here is the link


www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7998

 

Clean out your personal messages or I can just reply to you on here. I can't reply to you, says your box is full.

 

Sorry about that, inbox is cleared now.

I'm making progress until I started to drill out the rivets that hold the HU and HVAC trays in. I must not be using the right bit material or size or something. I have a 90 degree angle chuck attachment so I can get on them pretty good with my drill. But it is taking literally forever. I spent the last hour getting half way through one!

What did you guys use to drill these out to remove the trays?

 

I just used the angle grill. Make sure you have sharp bits, those are stainless steal rivets.

Here's my PM message reply. I through it on here.....it might help soneone else..

You can use this adapter to retain Bose and the subs should work.http://www.madvettemotorsports.com/i...ct_detail&p=68


As far as the power goes, Bose did some weird stuff. Your not going to be able to get power from the red wire on the stock harness.(I know its stupid...I found out after having mine all in and it wouldn't turn on) You have to grab power from somewhere else. I used the unused power leads under the passenger floor board.

VSS.... Yes. The RMP signal is what you want. That's the signal that will tell the nav when and how fast you’re moving. That wire sent the rpm signal to the stock radio to tell it how fast your going, and the stock unit adjusted the volume according to how high the RPS is.


To do the bypass correctly you need to move the yellow mute wire on the connector and ground it out.

It will work the other way, just with an annoying chime.









I put my GPS antenna in corner of the front window on the driver's side.

You can take the bracket out and flip it over and it will be perfect for the D3’s height. Just bolt the bracket in upside down. I used the bottom bracket flipped upside down. Then I made a couple brackets to hold the head unit in.





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and whomever told you that, is completely wrong.

 

The GPS antenna tells the Nav where you are and the VSS(vehicle speed sensor) tells the Nav how fast and far you have traveled.

 

I got the VSS directly from the PCM.

(Did you get them drilled out yet?)

I was a little overwhelmed when I decided to install the Z2 by myself and opened the box!!!
But did some research and wasnt to bad, worst part was modifying that stupid cage.

 

The most frustrating part is getting the stock brackets out.

 

OMFG they are out! It took an 8 dollar 1/4" Carbon bit for hardened steel. That did the trick. A couple came out very easy, a few others were stubborn. Now comes the fun of lining everything up!

Getting close! Progress so far... CF cluster/Aluminum bezels (which might have to come out again to get to the VSS yeah?). LED mods done! NAV antenna routed. Once the D3 is lined up and functioning and I can start putting the painted plastics back in! I fired her up for the first time 2 months... damn I missed that sound

 

Black$heep, from your description... is this the VSS?

 

to those who say u need VSS im not arguing with you, but then why is it without it still tells you the speed. the vss wire is just for added accuracy, it really isnt necessary, but in the vette its so easy to get it at u might as well hook it up

 

Yes, I am pretty sure that is the one I used.

 

I broke off the little plastic piece in the back at the top. That made more room for the D3 and the wires!!

 

My single zone HVAC leaves tons of room behind it. I'll pushing the wires and OEM-1 adapter down behind the climate control. The single zone hvac is so light, I almost wouldn't need to drill mounting brackets for it. It's pretty snug with 3M double sided tape haha.

Although it works now, I think heat/humidity over time would make it eventually fall down.

What did you guys connect your Antenna Control to if I have a glass antenna/Coupe.

The instructions mention connecting it to the Antenna Power Booster Control Terminal. What is that?

I've been working on this all today... slow, steady progress. Looks like my greatest challenge will be lining up the fabbed brackets so the HU protrudes from my console properly. I can already see a gap between the HVAC and the console.

 

It's alive!!!! I haven't tested the navi yet, but I'm getting weak signals in the garage so I know it's working. I'll see if that was the VSS line after all then.

Now that daunting task of trying align my fabbed brackets to the new radio bezel.