Circuit board or electronics gurus needed within
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
From: Coconut Creek FL
Circuit board or electronics gurus needed within
This is what is believed to be a "transistor" I am not %100 but it’s what I was told. Its part of a headlamp control module from my 98 C5. This one pictured is bad and I’m looking for someone that knows where I can find this part. I have Googled it with no luck, went to radio shack with no luck. Does anyone know? Thanks for your help in advance!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,713
Likes: 0
GDS = Gate, Drain, Source, so it's a FET (Field Effect Transistor), specifically a Power MOSFET
Lemmee see if I can find something....
I'd guess 9744 is date code, 1997, 44th week, so I will see if the other is a base P/N number.
In my younger days the symbol would have made me know the mfgr, but it does not ring a bell...
EDIT:
Okay, it's National Semi...
http://www.chipdocs.com/manufacturers/NSC.html
Lemmee see if I can find something....
I'd guess 9744 is date code, 1997, 44th week, so I will see if the other is a base P/N number.
In my younger days the symbol would have made me know the mfgr, but it does not ring a bell...
EDIT:
Okay, it's National Semi...
http://www.chipdocs.com/manufacturers/NSC.html
Last edited by TrackNoob; Jan 5, 2008 at 07:23 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 7,588
Likes: 6
From: Montreal Qc
I think it might be a diode. I found this page http://search.globalspec.com/product...cts?query=8219 which then I got to here http://americanmicrosemi.com/informa...ec/?ss_pn=8219
I hope this helps?
I hope this helps?
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 622
From: Coldwater MI
There's an 8219 listed here at Philips http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/philips/83/ .
Not sure if it's a reference number or what (probably just a coincidence)---but it appears to be your component.
Not sure if it's a reference number or what (probably just a coincidence)---but it appears to be your component.
Last edited by 426 Hemi; Jan 5, 2008 at 07:41 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,713
Likes: 0
Wow, this was tougher than I thought... .lots of consolidation/movement in the industry, nothing on National's site...
everything is highly integrated these days...
anyway, Intersil P/N RFD16N02L is what I could find:
* pin-out should work
* voltage should work
* amperage should work
* case type should work
You can plug the P/N into Google to find a lot of places to buy (in qnty) if you know someone in the industry, sometimes they can often sample them in small quantity for free if they have an account, but usually there is a sales call follow up to see if they want to place a larger order...
I can't guarantee the part will work, but my confidence is 85%.
Info and datasheet here:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/data...16N02LSM.shtml
everything is highly integrated these days...
anyway, Intersil P/N RFD16N02L is what I could find:
* pin-out should work
* voltage should work
* amperage should work
* case type should work
You can plug the P/N into Google to find a lot of places to buy (in qnty) if you know someone in the industry, sometimes they can often sample them in small quantity for free if they have an account, but usually there is a sales call follow up to see if they want to place a larger order...
I can't guarantee the part will work, but my confidence is 85%.
Info and datasheet here:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/data...16N02LSM.shtml
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,713
Likes: 0
I think it might be a diode. I found this page http://search.globalspec.com/product...cts?query=8219 which then I got to here http://americanmicrosemi.com/informa...ec/?ss_pn=8219
I hope this helps?
I hope this helps?
EDITE TO ADD -- Actually it's a TO-220!
Last edited by TrackNoob; Jan 5, 2008 at 08:11 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,713
Likes: 0
There's an 8219 listed here at Philips http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/philips/83/ .
Not sure if it's a reference number or what (probably just a coincidence)---but it appears to be your component.
Not sure if it's a reference number or what (probably just a coincidence)---but it appears to be your component.
He he he
Well, both your's and mine are ~ 30 V D-S, enhancement mode N channel power MOS FETs, general purpose switch or driver....but yours has a better chance of being the item... although, I do have to say that line number is more likely happenstance than the number stamped on the part...
So I'd get a:
BUK455-100A/B
Confidence here is 95%.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,611
Likes: 5
From: Thousand Oaks California
Normally the controller is not a serviceable component. It is simply replaced.
If you successfully replace the MOSFET on the board, let us know.
There may be other components on the board that have thermal stress.
Good luck with the repair.
Last edited by calemasters; Jan 5, 2008 at 08:32 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 622
From: Coldwater MI
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 4
From: Columbia Maryland
I doubt that this is only part that got fried. Most times one part goes and it causes other parts to fail as well. Most of the time you can't tell a working component from a failed one using only a visual inspection. It's very likely that you will replace this part and have fry again the first time you power it up. Since this is a C5, I would go to a junk yard and purchase a used complete unit.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
From: Coconut Creek FL
I doubt that this is only part that got fried. Most times one part goes and it causes other parts to fail as well. Most of the time you can't tell a working component from a failed one using only a visual inspection. It's very likely that you will replace this part and have fry again the first time you power it up. Since this is a C5, I would go to a junk yard and purchase a used complete unit.
Thanks guys for all your help. It was my fault it failed, I was doing some "testing" when one of my headlights was making a weird noise ( I now know it is a stripped gear and am getting the bronze one) when some wires I was using to test touched
Stupid me 
So now one headlight will go up and down and the other because this is fried will not. I thought it would be simple to find this part take out the old one and solder in the new one. Finding this thing is the most challenging part so far.
There are some used ones on ebay but looking over the board this seems to be the only issue. Seemed like a easy repair or at least worth a shot since the part is going to be cheep if I ever find it I have repaired boards before and usually can tell when more is fried. I can tell you the board smells like crap!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
GDS = Gate, Drain, Source, so it's a FET (Field Effect Transistor), specifically a Power MOSFET
Lemmee see if I can find something....
I'd guess 9744 is date code, 1997, 44th week, so I will see if the other is a base P/N number.
In my younger days the symbol would have made me know the mfgr, but it does not ring a bell...
EDIT:
Okay, it's National Semi...
http://www.chipdocs.com/manufacturers/NSC.html
Lemmee see if I can find something....
I'd guess 9744 is date code, 1997, 44th week, so I will see if the other is a base P/N number.
In my younger days the symbol would have made me know the mfgr, but it does not ring a bell...
EDIT:
Okay, it's National Semi...
http://www.chipdocs.com/manufacturers/NSC.html
Its been too long for me...you are wise beyond words! I haven't got into the guts of electronics in a long time and it shows.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,713
Likes: 0
Hey, gst20psi,
You are getting some good advice from those advising you may just want to get a replacement unit.
For instance, the older FETs lacked gate protection, so it is easy to zap them with static (ESD) while you handle it, unless you take care.
It's clear a lot of current has gone through area of Q2 (compare to Q1), and so it is indeed possible that there is another component that is bad as well... I've seen boards that carbonized so badly that they themselves became a conductor, and I had to scrape them of the carbon to try to salvage... at some point, ya gotta be willing to throw in the towel
at the end of the day, if I could lay my hands on the transistor, or even one near like it, I'd take a shot (not likely to do more harm than is already done!), but I would not spend too many hours on it -- sometimes you just have to suck it up and buy the module...
I love to tinker, but I always make sure I remember whether I am doing it for the fun, or thinking I am saving a buck -- often times, 'saving a buck' goes out the window pretty quickly!
Good luck, and tell us how you make out.
You are getting some good advice from those advising you may just want to get a replacement unit.
For instance, the older FETs lacked gate protection, so it is easy to zap them with static (ESD) while you handle it, unless you take care.
It's clear a lot of current has gone through area of Q2 (compare to Q1), and so it is indeed possible that there is another component that is bad as well... I've seen boards that carbonized so badly that they themselves became a conductor, and I had to scrape them of the carbon to try to salvage... at some point, ya gotta be willing to throw in the towel
at the end of the day, if I could lay my hands on the transistor, or even one near like it, I'd take a shot (not likely to do more harm than is already done!), but I would not spend too many hours on it -- sometimes you just have to suck it up and buy the module...
I love to tinker, but I always make sure I remember whether I am doing it for the fun, or thinking I am saving a buck -- often times, 'saving a buck' goes out the window pretty quickly!
Good luck, and tell us how you make out.
Last edited by TrackNoob; Jan 6, 2008 at 09:23 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 27
From: Torrance Calif
I don't know about you guys, but I have thrown 100 dollars worth of time and effort at a 20 dollar problem.
What I have learned is to be more "cost effective" in what I delve into, but I also like finding out what went wrong.
Power mosfet and probably a N-channel.
You can cut the "g" (gate) lead and measure if the D & S are shorted.
If they aren't and you can power up the board, activate the failed mode and see if you get any drive voltage measured at the gate (goes high or low).
If so, jumper the D & S leads and see if the failed mode works.
What I have learned is to be more "cost effective" in what I delve into, but I also like finding out what went wrong.
Power mosfet and probably a N-channel.
You can cut the "g" (gate) lead and measure if the D & S are shorted.
If they aren't and you can power up the board, activate the failed mode and see if you get any drive voltage measured at the gate (goes high or low).
If so, jumper the D & S leads and see if the failed mode works.