ShockwaveGT

So I've had a JL Stealthbox with the discontinued 10W3v2 speaker in it for a while now. Originally had it in my black C6 and now my VY C6. I've somewhat noticed that lately the bass hasn't sounded as good as I remembered it, or thought I remembered it. It sounds a bit more loose than I originally recall and it almost seems a bit distorted when it's loud and I also notice more of a rattle in the overall sound with the car vibrating more. I have had to mess with the crossover on the amp, to lower things a bit so it doesn't sound like this, but I really think it might be an issue with the speaker just not being meant for the JL 250x1 amp.

Even though according to JL's site the 10W3v2 can handle 250W it is close to the Max.

So I'm wondering if this is in fact affecting it's performance now that I've had it a couple years.

Does anyone know if the 10W3v3 will in fact fit in the C6 Stealthbox? Mounting depth on the W3v2 is 5.75 and it's 5.93 on the W3v3 so not sure how big a deal that is.


Also, will this resolve the issues I "think" I'm having with my current speaker?

Another reason I'm noticing this lately is my wife just had her sub installed in her Mazda3. It's a Elemental Designs 11Kv.2 Subwoofer in their custom down firing enclosure powered by the 400W NINe.2. Now I realize she's getting an extra 150W, but her sub sounds VERY good! The bass is tight, without any flab or distortion, even cranked as loud as I can handle it. It sounds as if you are sitting right next to the drummer's bass as he's playing. So basically, I'm noticing that the sub I'm running isn't matching that quality and I'm hoping the W3v3 might improve that. Hell, I even considered trying the same Elemental Design speaker she has in the Stealthbox if it would fit, mainly because it's a lot cheaper than a W3v3, but I'm not sure if it would perform as well or not.

Lastly, would adding some sound deadening material INSIDE the Stealthbox do anything? I've taken the speaker out and looked inside. There's some fabric material in the bottom area where the wiring is, but I wondered if putting some sound deaden stuff like dyanmat or whatever around the inside of the enclosure would have any positive effect.

Sorry for the long winded post, but you guys always have great advice...

ShockwaveGT

Just in case this might help...here's a image showing the current settings on the 250/1 amp as I have them now:



Output mode: Full Range
Mode/Slope: 24dB
Filter Freq: 65
Infrasonic Filter: Off
LF Boost: +7
Input Voltage: Low
Signal Sensing: On

Not sure if these are optimal, but that's how it's set.

TheKomoman

I'd start with messing with your settings first, since I see a problem right off the bat. You're running it full range, which means that the subwoofer is being sent the full signal range so you're forcing it to try to recreate frequencies it's not capable of reproducing. Even though you have the "Filter Freq" set to 65 the "Full Range" setting is going to override that.

Move the switch to Low Pass, set your LF Boost to 0, leave that Freq at 65 and adjust the crossover and maybe LF boost to suit your taste. If no combination of those settings gets you want you want, then perhaps you should look at changing the driver.

ShockwaveGT

Thx for the tip, I'll try that. What about putting sound deaden inside the enclosure?

scott_fx

isn't 65 hz a bit low? how low do you have your door speakers x-overed at? Getting down below 80hz requires a well dampened door in the c5 at least.

scofolo

The full range selection is for the preamp output. It just passes a full range signal to another amplifier connected to that output. This won't change the signal going to the subwoofer.

As for the 10w3v3, I don't remember seeing anyone with that sub in the stealthbox. JL Audio recently changed the sub that comes in the stealthbox to a 10w1v2. This might be because the 10w3v3 wouldn't fit properly.

ShockwaveGT

Ok, so I ended up putting a couple strips of eDead inside the enclosure and I moved the Freq. Filter to 85, with the LF Boost at +7.

I think it sounds a little better, with less of that flabby tone I noticed earlier, so maybe having it at 65 earlier was the reason. It's still not nearly as tight or sharp as my wife's but that could also just be the extra 150W she's getting that makes it have more punch with less distortion.

Other question I now have regards the front/rear speakers. I have a JL 300/4 for those. What Freq. settings do I want those at? Obviously, I want the sub to handle the bass, so how do I ensure I'm not overdriving the front/rear speakers with too much bass?

Thx.

Also, any C6'ers with the 10W3v3 care to chime in?

NYC6

I was just checking out the JL website. If Im seeing it right the 10w3-2 is rated at 300 watts RMS. The color power chart puts 300w right in the sweet spot with plenty of safe power above 300w. I have a 300/2 powering mine for close to a year now.I often play it cracked up pretty high and it still sounds very tight and clear. I do think Ive gotten used to it because it doesnt give me the same tingle on the back of my neck hairs(if you know what I mean). But others in the car are always impressed with the bass. I dont know if those extra 50w are making any noticeable change but I thought Id throw it out for you.

NYC6

I just opened the link you showed. Maybe Im confused but it shows the continuous power rating of 300w for the 10w3v2? Isnt continuous power the wattage that the amp can run full time? RMS power? I thought a speaker can take quite a bit more power than its RMS as long as it wasnt contiuous? Thats what the stealthbox was loaded with,I think? I hope Im not overloading my sub.

Is this audio place you talked to an authorized JL dealer? And do you trust what theyre telling you?

scofolo

The 10w3v2 is rated at 300 watts RMS. I've never had a problem with the 250/1 powering them. In fact, that amp is really a good one for that speaker. I think the shop you called wants to sell a new speaker or doesn't know much about that speaker. Running at 250 watts shouldn't be harming that speaker unless there are other factors involved.

Homer3D

I have the same JL stealthbox and sub in my C6. I am using the JL 500/1 to run it. Sounds great. I am thinking about swapping it so I already have a few subs in mind. I was looking at the Image Dynamics IDQ10D2 v.2. It's a great sub that will work really nice in a smalled sealed enclosure like the stealthbox. Power handling 300w.

pentavolvo

i think the problem is you need mroe power. put the 11kv in the box and try it out, it will work fine in that box