[C6] Door Panel re-installation
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
[C6] Door Panel re-installation
The C6 is one of the easiest cars to work on I've encountered for the stereo, but getting the door panels back on were a constant thorn in my side. Well my buddy sprkboy was getting the same frustration and decided to give the Brute Force & Ignorance (BFI, or BFH if you prefer!) approach a try and wadda ya know.. it works like a darned charm!
Instead of trying to hook the clips over the top and keep them on while getting all of the pins into the grommets to secure the panel, do it the other way around. Get all the pins lined up and pop them into place. THEN hold onto the outside of the door and give the top of the panel a shot at 3 or 4 places along the top edge with the heel of your hand. BINGO, the clips push themselves right up & over and hold the door securely.
I realize that it may not be a terribly elegant approach and if you're worred about scratches on the inside of the door (that by the way will never be seen) then you certainly can do it the way I had done previously. However for my money & time, clip & pop and done is the ticket.
Instead of trying to hook the clips over the top and keep them on while getting all of the pins into the grommets to secure the panel, do it the other way around. Get all the pins lined up and pop them into place. THEN hold onto the outside of the door and give the top of the panel a shot at 3 or 4 places along the top edge with the heel of your hand. BINGO, the clips push themselves right up & over and hold the door securely.
I realize that it may not be a terribly elegant approach and if you're worred about scratches on the inside of the door (that by the way will never be seen) then you certainly can do it the way I had done previously. However for my money & time, clip & pop and done is the ticket.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
A lot of times things like those hooks are there for ease of assembly, not later use. For my '07 Avalanche the service manual actually tells you the hooks on the bottom are OK to break, they're only for easy of initial assembly.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Removal is very simple.
Driver's side - there's a 3" long narrow cover behind the door handle that you pop off to reveal two T20 Torx screws.
Passenger side - use a thin-bladed screwdriver to pop the door open button off and there's one T20 Torx screw behind that. Then angled on the under side of the arm rest there is another T20 Torx screw.
After that it's the same for both. Feel along the bottom edge of the door panel until you feel an indent about 3" long towards the back. Pull hard there and the retaining pins will start to pop out. Pull the whole bottom first and then up each side. They sound AWFUL when they release, like you're breaking them, but that's just how they sound.
Driver's side - there's a 3" long narrow cover behind the door handle that you pop off to reveal two T20 Torx screws.
Passenger side - use a thin-bladed screwdriver to pop the door open button off and there's one T20 Torx screw behind that. Then angled on the under side of the arm rest there is another T20 Torx screw.
After that it's the same for both. Feel along the bottom edge of the door panel until you feel an indent about 3" long towards the back. Pull hard there and the retaining pins will start to pop out. Pull the whole bottom first and then up each side. They sound AWFUL when they release, like you're breaking them, but that's just how they sound.
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Advanced
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi Texas
I'm guessing the person that designed the C6 door panel never had to actually install the panel. I had a 92 Silverado that I could remove and reinstall in about five minutes and did not come close to breaking anything or need to beat it.
I reinstalled my door panel putting the pins in the grommets first and then beating on the panel to get the clips to hook in. I could get the two outside clips on both ends to hook in but not the two middle ones and I beat and banged pretty hard, it's a tough panel. After fighting with it for about an hour I tried with the door closed and standing outside the car pulled the panel up and in, that worked very well.
I reinstalled my door panel putting the pins in the grommets first and then beating on the panel to get the clips to hook in. I could get the two outside clips on both ends to hook in but not the two middle ones and I beat and banged pretty hard, it's a tough panel. After fighting with it for about an hour I tried with the door closed and standing outside the car pulled the panel up and in, that worked very well.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 615
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles Ca.
I have r & r'd my panels at least 50 times.
With the window down, I line up the top pin holes and then, starting from the rear, hook the clips ONE at a time.
Then check that all the pins are aligned and tap the panel in with the palm of my hand.
With the window down, I line up the top pin holes and then, starting from the rear, hook the clips ONE at a time.
Then check that all the pins are aligned and tap the panel in with the palm of my hand.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 545
Likes: 3
From: Cypress TX
Steve
1st Gear
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I used this method to reinstall the door panels by connecting the bottom first and pulling the top into place but I had some difficulty.
The top clips dug into the metal trim on the tip of the door (inside where it could not be seen). This caused the clips to not slide over and into their final destination.
I determined the problem was that the metal clips had a gagged edge which caused them to dig into the pain on the metal.
Re resolved by using my Dremel to smooth the gagged edge so the clips would easily slide over the top of the door.
After smoothing the edges the panel pulled easily over and dropped properly into their location.
The top clips dug into the metal trim on the tip of the door (inside where it could not be seen). This caused the clips to not slide over and into their final destination.
I determined the problem was that the metal clips had a gagged edge which caused them to dig into the pain on the metal.
Re resolved by using my Dremel to smooth the gagged edge so the clips would easily slide over the top of the door.
After smoothing the edges the panel pulled easily over and dropped properly into their location.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: New York
I used this method to reinstall the door panels by connecting the bottom first and pulling the top into place but I had some difficulty.
The top clips dug into the metal trim on the tip of the door (inside where it could not be seen). This caused the clips to not slide over and into their final destination.
I determined the problem was that the metal clips had a gagged edge which caused them to dig into the pain on the metal.
Re resolved by using my Dremel to smooth the gagged edge so the clips would easily slide over the top of the door.
After smoothing the edges the panel pulled easily over and dropped properly into their location.
The top clips dug into the metal trim on the tip of the door (inside where it could not be seen). This caused the clips to not slide over and into their final destination.
I determined the problem was that the metal clips had a gagged edge which caused them to dig into the pain on the metal.
Re resolved by using my Dremel to smooth the gagged edge so the clips would easily slide over the top of the door.
After smoothing the edges the panel pulled easily over and dropped properly into their location.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Frisco TX
I've had the door panels off a few times and I have tried various methods. Be careful beating on the top of the door panel because sometimes the clip doesn't slide into place, but rather break right off. I was cursing mine the other night trying to get them back on and came across a method that worked very well. I had my wife helping me which seemed to help a lot. I started at the top of the panel closest to the car with the window down. I slid the top grommet in while I put the clip closest to the car over the top of the door. While doing this, my wife made sure the rest of the door panel didn't clip in. Once these 2 were in, the rest of the panel just seemed to go right back on without any problems. Take it for what its worth and try at your own risk. I tried this method from the rear of the door farthest from the car and it wouldn't work. You have to start at the front of the door closest to the car. Good Luck...
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 539
Likes: 1
From: Edmond, OK
I thought I was the only person that had this problem until now. Let me say that it frustrated the hell out of me trying to get the door panels back on and the top was the problem. I used none of the technics listed here although these would have worked. Instead, I bent the metal clips at the top of the panel out slightly and put the top part of the panel on first. The clips grabbed and held on perfectly while I made my way around the panel pushing in the other fasteners. Others may want to try this approach in addition to the ones mentioned here.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
I guess I'm just lucky 
I've put so many C5/C6 door skins back on I think I can do it in my sleep at this point, and I know I can do it half drunk. I actually think the C6 is easier than the C5 was.
I hold the skin a few inches away from the door and get the push pins in roughly the right position, then tilt the skin at about 30* and drop the metal tabs into the top groove starting nearest the hinge. Use the paint scratches on the door to line up the clips. Once all of the clips are in the groove I tilt the skin to the door making sure the top front guide pin lines up properly, then just push it in all the way around. I use the palm of my hand to pound the skin on all the way once I'm sure all of the pins were properly seated.
I've put so many C5/C6 door skins back on I think I can do it in my sleep at this point, and I know I can do it half drunk. I actually think the C6 is easier than the C5 was.
I hold the skin a few inches away from the door and get the push pins in roughly the right position, then tilt the skin at about 30* and drop the metal tabs into the top groove starting nearest the hinge. Use the paint scratches on the door to line up the clips. Once all of the clips are in the groove I tilt the skin to the door making sure the top front guide pin lines up properly, then just push it in all the way around. I use the palm of my hand to pound the skin on all the way once I'm sure all of the pins were properly seated.
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