As I reported earlier, my Parrot CK3100 does work in my base-radio C6 with the cheaper harness from QuickConnect.com

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2082837

but some of you have warned that the higher levels coming into the amp could be a problem - so - - -

What can be done to reduce those levels? If someone knows the input impedance of the amplifier ( 1 megohm? 11 megohm? 100 ohms? 8 ohms - probably NOT ? ) then maybe putting similar sized resistors in the lines between the Parrot and the Amp (which the Parrot thinks are speakers) would cut the signal in half.

Since a little knowledge is a dangerous thing (see preceding paragraph ), I want to ask the experts if there is a relatively simple way to cut down the signal coming from the Parrot CK3100 to the amp in the C6, without buying the expensive QuickConnect Bose harness for $150 ?

I have had a brief email correspondence with one of the techs at QuickConnect.com, and he thinks some Corvettes do not have an amp and I must have the upgraded package. I think they do not know much about C6 Corvettes, so I don't expect much help there.

I am a bit disappointed in Parrot; they want to sell a lot of kits in the US, but rely on aftermarket harness suppliers to make their products work in US cars. If Parrot were a better, consumer-oriented company, they would be sure the correct harnesses were available at reasonable prices for their target market.

Thanx in advance,

 

EVERY C6 has an amp regardless of what everyone tells you.

I think a resistor would work and serve its purpose but off hand what size I do not know. With that said I will do some experimenting tonight and see what I can find for you.

 

The Parrot is producing an amplified signal, so basically what you need is a Line Output Converter (LOC). I'm sure wiring in a resistor would get it done and likely at a lesser expense, but if you're pressed for time LOCs should be easily had at even the install shops of the big boxers.

 

the parrot also offers a low level output but its just a single channel so you would have to split it between left and right but that wouldnt be hard at all

IMO using the low level output provided would be the smart/easy way to go. You manual should mention it its a thin pair of wires coming off the back

Komoman any idea on what size resistor to remotely start testing because ive wanted to try this for a long time

 

The Parrot "Mute Cable" has relays in it that take the single amplified output from the Parrot and feed it to the right and left front door speakers. I might be able to take the thin LINE OUT wires, and substitute them for the amplified signal on pins 5 and 6 coming out of the Parrot box. This line level signal would then be switched by the Parrot relays to the amplifier inputs.

Alternatively, I could just put a voltage divider across the Parrot amplified output (11 watts into 4 ohms implies about 7 volts RMS), with a 1Kohm and 100 ohm resistor in series, and tap a .7 volt output across the 100 ohm resistor and send that on its way to the amplifier inputs. That could be better than straight in-line resistors. Like I said about a little knowledge being dangerous . . .

 

Sorry, no idea on the resistor. While I'm a technology guy, I'm not an electronics guy. Sounds like clevite knows a heckuva lot more than both of us there.

 

. . . to serve as simple line output converter:

Fresh off the whiteboard:



The first 100 ohm resistor puts a small load on the Parrot output for stability. The three resistors on the right are a voltage divider, but with the larger value split so the Parrot and the amp are not tied directly together. Unless anyone has any brilliant insights or corrections to my thinking, I am off to Radio Shack to buy some resistors . . . . .

 

let us know how this goes

 

any update

 

I just got it working tonight to my satisfaction with the CHEAP QuickConnect harness.

I found this wiring diagram on-line; it is for the Parrot HARNESS, what is in the shaded blue box is actually the long fat black thing in the middle of the Parrot harness. The blue Parrot box that is hidden under the dash connects at the lower left. Pins 5 and 6 are the 11 watt output of the Parrot. The "Line Out" brown and green wires are also coming out thru this plug.



First I cut the wires from pins 5 and 6 (red and white) and fed the "Line Out" wires into the harness. For some reason, this made no difference; still too much volume coming out of the speakers. So I went to plan B and put the voltage divider I conjured up in the circuit where I cut the red and white wires:



THIS WORKED ! ! ! Nominal volumes at the middle volume settings on the Parrot. There is still a bit of popping when the phone and the Parrot sync on start up, so this is not a "professional" solution, but it is good enough for me.

Interestingly, the "Line Out" is supposed to by a 750 mV signal, and my voltage divider should also provide about a 700 mV signal, but only the voltage divider works. Go figure.

 

On reflection - I suspect that the "Line Out" signal from the Parrot is NOT controlled by the Parrot volume settings - since it is usually supposed to go into a head unit where the volume will be controlled by the settings in the head unit.

The 11 watt speaker output (max) IS controlled by the Parrot volume control, so my 700 mV theoretical is a max signal, and can be brought down.

I suspect that the 750 mV output of the "Line Out" from the Parrot is still a little higher than the GM amp wants to see as an input. So for those who want to invest a lot of sweat equity to save $100 on a harness, the voltage divider resistor network is the only way to go.

Pictures coming this weekend, as I clean up the final installation. Not much to look at as far as the voltage divider - all inside some blue heat shrink tubing .

 

theory makes total sense

 

. . . at least it explains the facts

 

Hey I need help stepping down a 20 watt amplified signal that WAS going to an external speaker on a blue tooth car kit... I plan on using resistors as you did, do you have any suggestions of what type I need, compared to your 14 watt set up ??

 

if you are going to an external speaker dont step it down

 

Sorry I wasn't clear.

I want to step down to a line-level because the bluetooth car kit uses an external speaker that I dont want to use, I want to tap into the speakers in the car at the bose amp.

 

tap them after the bose amp then you wont have to worry about it

 

Are you planning on installing a set of relays or something to mute the sound coming from the stereo when the bluetooth is active? You say the output is 20 watts, but at what impedance or voltage level? What device are you using?

 

You can disconnect the center speaker from OEM gear and use it for the BT speaker.

 

well I do have the mute relay and everything works great

I am trying to tap in to the front and left door speakers AFTER the bose amp

where can I locate the wires without tapping them in the doors, to be specific where can i access the front left/right midrange speakers in passenger footwell AFTER the amp?? I have wire schematics already