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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 02:39 PM
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What did you use?

How much did you spend?

How much weight did it add ?

Satisfied (good/bad)?

If you could find the ideal product what would you look for/avoid?

Thanks
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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The only option for blocking sound is a foam with mass loaded vinyl, or lead. Anything less (ie, really thin foam, or foam with tinfoil on it) is hoping the laws of physics don't apply to you.

Luxury Liner or Luxury Liner pro are the ones to go with. They are about 1lb/square foot. It's heavy, that's one of the reasons it works. It's also somewhat expensive, and difficult to install in tight spaces. But if you're interested in killing sound, this is your only option. (aside from putting together your own foam-lead sheets)

If anyone disagrees with me, and thinks a little layer of foam can help, I urge you to do some research and find out how thick that foam has to be to block any useful frequencies. Here's a hint: There won't be room left for you in the car when you're done.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 03:29 PM
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I used a combination of materials from b-quiet. http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html I used L-comp, V-comp, and Ultimate (if I remember right).
Their prices are on their website.
The stuff is heavy but worth it. I have no mufflers (BB Bullet exhaust) on my Vette so she is loud. Using b-quiet materials made a hell of a noise reduction inside the Vette.
None of the b-quiet materials added "the asphalt smell" that some vendor's materails can add.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale
The only option for blocking sound is a foam with mass loaded vinyl, or lead. Anything less (ie, really thin foam, or foam with tinfoil on it) is hoping the laws of physics don't apply to you.

Luxury Liner or Luxury Liner pro are the ones to go with. They are about 1lb/square foot. It's heavy, that's one of the reasons it works. It's also somewhat expensive, and difficult to install in tight spaces. But if you're interested in killing sound, this is your only option. (aside from putting together your own foam-lead sheets)

If anyone disagrees with me, and thinks a little layer of foam can help, I urge you to do some research and find out how thick that foam has to be to block any useful frequencies. Here's a hint: There won't be room left for you in the car when you're done.

kool-mat it's silicone base and very expensive.

$1,500 to do my vette. It works great and is used in high end vehicles.

http://www.koolmat.com/main.htm
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale
The only option for blocking sound is a foam with mass loaded vinyl, or lead. Anything less (ie, really thin foam, or foam with tinfoil on it) is hoping the laws of physics don't apply to you.

Luxury Liner or Luxury Liner pro are the ones to go with. They are about 1lb/square foot. It's heavy, that's one of the reasons it works. It's also somewhat expensive, and difficult to install in tight spaces. But if you're interested in killing sound, this is your only option. (aside from putting together your own foam-lead sheets)

If anyone disagrees with me, and thinks a little layer of foam can help, I urge you to do some research and find out how thick that foam has to be to block any useful frequencies. Here's a hint: There won't be room left for you in the car when you're done.

I definitely agree but of course those products go on only after a mass loading product like Dynamat first applied to the panels.

And you need to use a Dynamat like (Or Dynamat itself) on the doors inside and out with a thinner foam layer over that in the doors.
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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I am a proponent of making effort to deaden your vette if you are spending good money on your system, or you run aftermarket exhaust and want to quiet it down.

However, as it is with most things, there is a point where you reach seriously diminishing returns. And there comes into question the fact you are adding untold pounds to what most would, and should, consider a performance car.

I have used Dynamat and the products from Raammat. I prefer the raam stuff as the customer service is better, the product is better, and it is cheaper (win,win,win). I equate Dynamat to Bose, well marketed, but under performing for the cost.

I personally have Crazy Cowboys kit for heat reduction which worked well. I also have my car in a layer or two (or 3) of Liquid EDead. I concentrated on the doors, the rear hatch area, and the wheel wells for the majority of the mass building, but even that was added just enough to eliminate rattles. In fact now that my z06 is a race car and not a DD, I am considering pulling a lot of the insulation and deadening out.

There are a lot of good products on the market, and most will perform within a small percentage of the other. Do some research on the web, and spend within your budget. I was quite pleased with the difference that the Raammat Ensolite product made in my last 2 installations.

G'luck
Fej
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by minitech
I definitely agree but of course those products go on only after a mass loading product like Dynamat first applied to the panels.

And you need to use a Dynamat like (Or Dynamat itself) on the doors inside and out with a thinner foam layer over that in the doors.
Why? Fiberglass doesn't 'ring' like metal does. Stiffening would do more good and cost you less weight. On that note, you would better off with one of the liquid damping materials. Such as Secondskin spectrum. Too bad it doesn't adhere super well to fiberglass (prime first with paint...)


If you do want to stick butyl on your car, Raamat is great for the price, though very messy. Secondskin damplifier pro is the best stuff on the market, and doesn't make a mess, but it will cost you. I think its worth the cost over raamat, having used both.
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 03:02 PM
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Put fiberglass house insulation in plastic garbage bags and stuff in the three rear wells, you won't believe the difference.
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Kale
Why? Fiberglass doesn't 'ring' like metal does. Stiffening would do more good and cost you less weight. On that note, you would better off with one of the liquid damping materials. Such as Secondskin spectrum. Too bad it doesn't adhere super well to fiberglass (prime first with paint...)


If you do want to stick butyl on your car, Raamat is great for the price, though very messy. Secondskin damplifier pro is the best stuff on the market, and doesn't make a mess, but it will cost you. I think its worth the cost over raamat, having used both.

The people that sell the Luxury liner and other like products all say they need a base of something like Raamat or Dynamat. They could sell more of this expensive mat if they just say "Hey just use it alone and it is just as good or better."


The ones I have seen are multi layered and start with a soft foam and the sandwich builds from there either lead sheet, thicker rubber, etc.. So nothing to stick to the panel first and dampen the vibration. Fiberglass is different than metal but still has very significant dampening when only "Raamat or Dynamat" are used.


So they really need to be used together. Or just the Butyl product alone but not the extra dampening only.


Only butyl will work for the essential interior doors.


And head to head complete butyl versus complete light weight overlay like the Cowboy Kit the butyl product is much better. If I were going to do the Cowboy Kit which looks good I would lay down a butyl product first while is is all taken apart.


I don't know about the liquid stuff beside reading about it. I do know Kale is the man though for forum sound questions!
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 11:39 AM
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Most cars are made out of metal, which reverberates. Plastic/fiberglass, it just goes thud, and doesn't. It never hurts to double the mass of a panel, sure. But the liquid stuff should be better for that, considering the stiffening. (Though damplifier pro is pretty stiff)
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 10:54 AM
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True metal reverbs much more than fiberglass (most of the C6 isn't fiberglass, it's more plastic polymer) - but the floor pan and the panel behind the seats of the C6 will reverb quite well due to how thin, stiff, and large they are without any ridges or shape to prevent the flex which reverbs from vibration of certain frequencies.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 03:51 PM
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I have the MadVette Motorsports kit and I am completely satisfied with it. It is a very well laid out kit that is easy to install, with very plain instructions, and and does it's job well.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 06:21 PM
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What did you use?
Second skin's Damplifier Pro and Overkill Pro (closed cell acoustic foam)

How much did you spend?
~$300

How much weight did it add ?
~35-40 obs

Satisfied (good/bad)?
Excellent results. Overall drop of 8dB at 60mph according to the EPIC 150 mic. The only down side is soon after the install, Second skin developed Lux Liner (the stuff kale's using) which is an open celled foam that does a much better job of blocking low frequencies like exhaust noise.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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I'm trying to block both exhaust and road noise from the cabin. Would ensolite, luxury liner, or luxury liner pro do a better job at this (of course installed on top of raammat, damplifier, or dynamat)?
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nativesun1979
I'm trying to block both exhaust and road noise from the cabin. Would ensolite, luxury liner, or luxury liner pro do a better job at this (of course installed on top of raammat, damplifier, or dynamat)?
Damplifier pro + Lux Liner Pro = Quiet WIN
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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I elected to do only my doors. Not compramising the car's intent. 40sq^ft damplifer and 2yds ensolite.
<$150 and made a tremendous difference in my mids performance. Prolly 20lbs....
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