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Basic question regarding RCA outputs(non-amplified)

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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 02:30 PM
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Default Basic question regarding RCA outputs(non-amplified)

Hello guys,
I'm building my system for a C6, and was going to use the stock HU with the PAC ADD-GM24 Harness to add an amp to it.

IF I were to use all 4 channels for the speakers and add a sub,
where should I get the signals for the sub amp from?

Basically what I'm curious about is;
If 1 non-amplified channel(for example 1 right rear channel) is used to send signals to 2 different amps(speaker amp, sub amp),
would the power of that channel be 1/2 of others?

Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks,

Dan
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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just use y adapters, some amps do this automatically or via a switch if its a 5 ch amp
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 03:07 PM
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Thanks for the reply, Pentalvolvo

So, if I use this y adapter and splice 1 set of signal into 2 different amps, does it cut the power to 1/2 since it's being shared?

Dan
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 11:48 PM
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there will be some voltage drop but its not cutting it in half, it is regularly done for instance i just did this exact thing in a c6 this weekend no issues what so ever
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 12:20 AM
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If you are going to do it, do it right.... Your talking about your Corvette, not a Honda Civic.

Buy an OEM audio interface. That will change your single RCA, or line level speaker signal to 6 channel RCA out. That way you can still use your balance & fader controls, which you WILL need to tune your set up.

Check out Fleabay, they have tons....

It will also boost your signal voltage to 6v + to match your amp(s).

Spend the $ and do it right!

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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 06:55 AM
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funny u say this there are tons of guys running aroudn on here without an oem audio interface and have no issues what so ever
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 07:56 AM
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The audio interface is actually HARMFUL to the sound quality for the C6, not "doing it right." The stock C6 heads output line level audio so why exactly would you want to introduce more electronics into the signal path? We hooked up an RTA analyzer and PROVED that the PAC AOEM-GM24 (which is the ADD-GM24 plus their generic OEM-1 box) introduces a typical "loudness" EQ curve, rolling off those very frequencies you want for your sub.

Honestly if you want to do this "right" and are going to use 4 channels for front & rear PLUS a sub, then get a 4 channel amp with a low pass filter output to send to a sub amp. THAT will be doing it "right."
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 09:59 AM
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I really appreciate your help, guys.

Dan
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
The audio interface is actually HARMFUL to the sound quality for the C6, not "doing it right." The stock C6 heads output line level audio so why exactly would you want to introduce more electronics into the signal path? We hooked up an RTA analyzer and PROVED that the PAC AOEM-GM24 (which is the ADD-GM24 plus their generic OEM-1 box) introduces a typical "loudness" EQ curve, rolling off those very frequencies you want for your sub.

Honestly if you want to do this "right" and are going to use 4 channels for front & rear PLUS a sub, then get a 4 channel amp with a low pass filter output to send to a sub amp. THAT will be doing it "right."
Why would you hook up a generic piece of equipment into your signal path, that's the question.... An interface is not harmful, neither is introducing another piece of equipment. This would not be audible PERIOD unless your using crap made in china, or bought from Radio Shack. Furthermore, which one of these guys has the ability to use an RTA realistically, or even owns one?

The OP said that he had only one RCA out, and someone here proposed using a Y jack. How is that doing it right? You'll lose all ability to control your fade & balance.

So yes, doing it right is buying a QUALITY OEM interface.

And with so many guys running without one, I'm sure those guys didn't read this post, and/or are using head units with 4-5 pre amp outputs....

Sorry if you guys don't agree, as it was not my intention to offend. I only intended to help the OP as I don't have a lot of mechanical knowledge with respect to fixing Corvettes, but I do know A TON about quality car audio.

Keith
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 10:53 PM
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there are tons of guys on here running aroudn with oem nav units without a signal processor there factory headunit puts out a clean flat signal plain and simple. there is no harm in splitting the rear or front outputs to a seperate sub channel, hell add a bass level adjuster to adjust the sub level.

an audio interface is going to do just the same thing
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 08:53 AM
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I tapped directly into the low level input wires near the factory Bose amp (that I removed completely) for the signal connection to my JL amps. It works fine. My only comment is that it appears that the factory signal is flat, but clipped at ~10kHz. Have you guys seen this as well?
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Spying Beast
Why would you hook up a generic piece of equipment into your signal path, that's the question.... An interface is not harmful, neither is introducing another piece of equipment. This would not be audible PERIOD unless your using crap made in china, or bought from Radio Shack. Furthermore, which one of these guys has the ability to use an RTA realistically, or even owns one?

The OP said that he had only one RCA out, and someone here proposed using a Y jack. How is that doing it right? You'll lose all ability to control your fade & balance.

So yes, doing it right is buying a QUALITY OEM interface.

And with so many guys running without one, I'm sure those guys didn't read this post, and/or are using head units with 4-5 pre amp outputs....

Sorry if you guys don't agree, as it was not my intention to offend. I only intended to help the OP as I don't have a lot of mechanical knowledge with respect to fixing Corvettes, but I do know A TON about quality car audio.

Keith
Sorry if my reaction was vehement but you were giving generic advice and it's WAY too easy on forums for a statement like that become "fact" so I try to slam home the facts to keep that from happening. What you were saying often does apply it's just that for the C6 it does not.

If you are replacing the head unit then yes, absolutely you need a quality OEM interface, and for the C6 I strongly recommend the Peripheral modules since they use the Delphi chipsets. However if you are maintaining the stock head my approach is minimalistic is best - the less you put in the signal path the better the result, period. The stock head units do put out line level, flat output. And to answer TurboLX I did not see significant rolloff above 10k. It does look to slightly roll off but with the measurement devices we used the result could have been error as easily as actual roll off. That's in reference to just tapping the output.

What is NOT in question however is the signficant roll-off introduced by the PAC AOEM-GM24 via it's OEM-1 module. Here's the graph that shows it very clearly:

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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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Wow, thanks for the info, guys.
Spying Beast, I also really appreciate your comments. I guess it's just the C6 that acts a little different to audio interfaces. I'll keep your comments in mind for future reference.

Again, you've been more than helpful. I'll buy anyone of you a beer if you're local(Metro Detroit)

Dan
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:42 AM
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pretty much all GMs with factory amps have a flat output from the radio its the amp that EQs it all up, common lazy installer belief is to sell a cleansweep since its more money in there pocket and they can tap the signal chain anywhere pretty much
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Spying Beast
If you are going to do it, do it right.... Your talking about your Corvette, not a Honda Civic.

:
WOW, that is the dumbest thing i have heard today
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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Here's my in-car frequency respsonse as measured with the behringer mic and TrueRTA software:

I'll probably break down and put an EQX in there, but the 10k+ dropoff certainly wasn't there with the same horns/amp in my BMW being fed by an Eclipse head unit.

Originally Posted by nearwater
Again, you've been more than helpful. I'll buy anyone of you a beer if you're local(Metro Detroit)
Careful what you ask for, Dan. I'm in Oakland county and will take you up on that one...
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboLX
Here's my in-car frequency respsonse as measured with the behringer mic and TrueRTA software:

I'll probably break down and put an EQX in there, but the 10k+ dropoff certainly wasn't there with the same horns/amp in my BMW being fed by an Eclipse head unit.


Careful what you ask for, Dan. I'm in Oakland county and will take you up on that one...
We're dealing with 2 very different RTA's there - one is a direct electrical connection to the head where you're measuring cabin response. If you're going to these levels to get the sound right then I think stick with a stock head is chasing your tail. They're OK but doing that is for folks who are casual about their audio upgrades, not hardcore. Doing a cabin response RTA qualifies as hardcore!
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboLX
Here's my in-car frequency respsonse as measured with the behringer mic and TrueRTA software:

I'll probably break down and put an EQX in there, but the 10k+ dropoff certainly wasn't there with the same horns/amp in my BMW being fed by an Eclipse head unit.


Careful what you ask for, Dan. I'm in Oakland county and will take you up on that one...
So, that was with your stock HU?
Is this the case with ALL C6 stock headunits?

And yeah, let me know when you're near Troy.

Dan
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 01:50 PM
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ill repeat this once again all factory c6 headunits have a flat output
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
ill repeat this once again all factory c6 headunits have a flat output


My is out the door in the very, very near future.
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