Damn thats HOT!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,394
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area CA
Hmm, you have blown an amp and this one runs super hot, maybe the speakers are not wired correctly?
Can you confirm what model your sub is, and if it is a single or dual voice coil? And what ohms the coil is?
Is the rear sub channel bridgeable? Maybe they are sending a 2 ohm load to the sub channel bridged?
Can you take a pic of the wiring of the speakers as well?
Seems strange even with that gain level that the amp is running that hot /shrug
Fej
Can you confirm what model your sub is, and if it is a single or dual voice coil? And what ohms the coil is?
Is the rear sub channel bridgeable? Maybe they are sending a 2 ohm load to the sub channel bridged?
Can you take a pic of the wiring of the speakers as well?
Seems strange even with that gain level that the amp is running that hot /shrug
Fej
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 1
From: SE Coast FL
Hmm, you have blown an amp and this one runs super hot, maybe the speakers are not wired correctly?
Can you confirm what model your sub is, and if it is a single or dual voice coil? And what ohms the coil is?
Is the rear sub channel bridgeable? Maybe they are sending a 2 ohm load to the sub channel bridged?
Can you take a pic of the wiring of the speakers as well?
Seems strange even with that gain level that the amp is running that hot /shrug
Fej
Can you confirm what model your sub is, and if it is a single or dual voice coil? And what ohms the coil is?
Is the rear sub channel bridgeable? Maybe they are sending a 2 ohm load to the sub channel bridged?
Can you take a pic of the wiring of the speakers as well?
Seems strange even with that gain level that the amp is running that hot /shrug
Fej
Hmmm is right
Kicker CVT12 Single 4 ohm
Umm bridgeable? lol Chinese again
Everything is tucked in so the only other pic would be the opposite side of the amp
Only the amp is exposed now waiting to see if it blows before I make the box.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,364
Likes: 408
From: Greer, SC
Here is the owners manual which shows the controls better...
http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hi...fierManual.pdf
Not that this is causing the issue but it looks like channel 1/2 and channel 3/4 the hi-pass controls are set at too high a frequency. Those controls should be set more counte clockwise and it looks like it is set around the mid point. I'd lower those control to about the 7 O'clock position. I would do this for both channels 1/2 and 3/4. They both should be set to the same position. Again, that is not causing your issue but it is certainly impacting the sound.
The low pass looks to be set about right. I'd probably turn it down to about the 11 O'clock position though. Both crossovers should be set at about 80 hz in my opinion.
For setting the gains, I'd still my method above. I would unplug the RCA jacks going to the sub (channel 5) and the jacks going to channels 3/4 and just adjust channels 1/2. Set the gain control all the way down to 6V (counter clockwise). Once you set the gain for channels 1/2 are set then set 3/4 to the exact same position. I would then turn channel 5 to the 6V setting and repeat the procedure with all other channels (RCA plugs) disconnected. Once the sub is set right plug them all back in and see if the amp still gets really hot. If it does it is either a bad amp or bad amp design in my opinion. Pretty hard for it to be anything else unless your battery is not fully charged for some reason. That could cause an amp to run hot as well if it is not getting enough power.
http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hi...fierManual.pdf
Not that this is causing the issue but it looks like channel 1/2 and channel 3/4 the hi-pass controls are set at too high a frequency. Those controls should be set more counte clockwise and it looks like it is set around the mid point. I'd lower those control to about the 7 O'clock position. I would do this for both channels 1/2 and 3/4. They both should be set to the same position. Again, that is not causing your issue but it is certainly impacting the sound.
The low pass looks to be set about right. I'd probably turn it down to about the 11 O'clock position though. Both crossovers should be set at about 80 hz in my opinion.
For setting the gains, I'd still my method above. I would unplug the RCA jacks going to the sub (channel 5) and the jacks going to channels 3/4 and just adjust channels 1/2. Set the gain control all the way down to 6V (counter clockwise). Once you set the gain for channels 1/2 are set then set 3/4 to the exact same position. I would then turn channel 5 to the 6V setting and repeat the procedure with all other channels (RCA plugs) disconnected. Once the sub is set right plug them all back in and see if the amp still gets really hot. If it does it is either a bad amp or bad amp design in my opinion. Pretty hard for it to be anything else unless your battery is not fully charged for some reason. That could cause an amp to run hot as well if it is not getting enough power.
Last edited by Mike02z; Jul 29, 2009 at 08:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 1
From: SE Coast FL
Here is the owners manual which shows the controls better...
http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hi...fierManual.pdf
Not that this is causing the issue but it looks like channel 1/2 and channel 3/4 the hi-pass controls are set at too high a frequency. Those controls should be set more counte clockwise and it looks like it is set around the mid point. I'd lower those control to about the 7 O'clock position. I would do this for both channels 1/2 and 3/4. They both should be set to the same position. Again, that is not causing your issue but it is certainly impacting the sound.
The low pass looks to be set about right. I'd probably turn it down to about the 11 O'clock position though. Both crossovers should be set at about 80 hz in my opinion.
For setting the gains, I'd still my method above. I would unplug the RCA jacks going to the sub (channel 5) and the jacks going to channels 3/4 and just adjust channels 1/2. Set the gain control all the way down to 6V (counter clockwise). Once you set the gain for channels 1/2 are set then set 3/4 to the exact same position. I would then turn channel 5 to the 6V setting and repeat the procedure with all other channels (RCA plugs) disconnected. Once the sub is set right plug them all back in and see if the amp still gets really hot. If it does it is either a bad amp or bad amp design in my opinion. Pretty hard for it to be anything else unless your battery is not fully charged for some reason. That could cause an amp to run hot as well if it is not getting enough power.
http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hi...fierManual.pdf
Not that this is causing the issue but it looks like channel 1/2 and channel 3/4 the hi-pass controls are set at too high a frequency. Those controls should be set more counte clockwise and it looks like it is set around the mid point. I'd lower those control to about the 7 O'clock position. I would do this for both channels 1/2 and 3/4. They both should be set to the same position. Again, that is not causing your issue but it is certainly impacting the sound.
The low pass looks to be set about right. I'd probably turn it down to about the 11 O'clock position though. Both crossovers should be set at about 80 hz in my opinion.
For setting the gains, I'd still my method above. I would unplug the RCA jacks going to the sub (channel 5) and the jacks going to channels 3/4 and just adjust channels 1/2. Set the gain control all the way down to 6V (counter clockwise). Once you set the gain for channels 1/2 are set then set 3/4 to the exact same position. I would then turn channel 5 to the 6V setting and repeat the procedure with all other channels (RCA plugs) disconnected. Once the sub is set right plug them all back in and see if the amp still gets really hot. If it does it is either a bad amp or bad amp design in my opinion. Pretty hard for it to be anything else unless your battery is not fully charged for some reason. That could cause an amp to run hot as well if it is not getting enough power.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 8
From: Issaquah WA
Here is the owners manual which shows the controls better...
http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hi...fierManual.pdf
Not that this is causing the issue but it looks like channel 1/2 and channel 3/4 the hi-pass controls are set at too high a frequency. Those controls should be set more counte clockwise and it looks like it is set around the mid point. I'd lower those control to about the 7 O'clock position. I would do this for both channels 1/2 and 3/4. They both should be set to the same position. Again, that is not causing your issue but it is certainly impacting the sound.
The low pass looks to be set about right. I'd probably turn it down to about the 11 O'clock position though. Both crossovers should be set at about 80 hz in my opinion.
http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hi...fierManual.pdf
Not that this is causing the issue but it looks like channel 1/2 and channel 3/4 the hi-pass controls are set at too high a frequency. Those controls should be set more counte clockwise and it looks like it is set around the mid point. I'd lower those control to about the 7 O'clock position. I would do this for both channels 1/2 and 3/4. They both should be set to the same position. Again, that is not causing your issue but it is certainly impacting the sound.
The low pass looks to be set about right. I'd probably turn it down to about the 11 O'clock position though. Both crossovers should be set at about 80 hz in my opinion.
Personally, I woudn't do the settings by sight, and I probably wouldn't set the x-over point at 80hz. I'm assuming that the 2 way Infinity Kappas are probably 6 1/2" in front, and 5 1/4 in back. Neither of those speakers, running in an infinite baffle (just mounted on the doors or in the side panels) will produce 80hz output well, nor live very long doing it. Although the 12 sub will probably sound better rolling off at 80hz, it should be okay higher than that. Crossing the 12" off at 90-100 hz will let it do most of the hard work replicating mid-bass sounds, and relieve the other speakers.
Ultimately the crossover point should be what sounds best in the car. With the subwoofer disconnected, and the crossover point set high (150 hz or higher), run the other speakers at the highest level of output you would usually listen to them at. Then lower the crossover point in stages down to about 80hz. At some point you'll hear the speakers straining. That's the point you want to stay above. Once you know what that point is, do the opposite - disconnect the other speakers, and find out how high the subwoofer will run, and still sound good with the music you listen to. You want your crossovers set so that the crossover point is above the lowest point that the small speakers are happy, and below the highest point that the 12" still sounds good. Then with both running, fine tune the settings (always keeping above the bottom threshold for the small speakers) so that the mid-bass reproduction sounds "right" to you. Sometimes it helps to overlap the settings, sometimes you purposely leave a gap. Sometimes the markings are completely off, and you can't tell by looking.
As I recommended on the other thread - you really should find a shop/installer you trust to help with the tuning and troubleshooting.
I guess you can make adjustments to the settings based on numbers, but I wouldn't recommend it.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,364
Likes: 408
From: Greer, SC
Personally, I woudn't do the settings by sight, and I probably wouldn't set the x-over point at 80hz. I'm assuming that the 2 way Infinity Kappas are probably 6 1/2" in front, and 5 1/4 in back. Neither of those speakers, running in an infinite baffle (just mounted on the doors or in the side panels) will produce 80hz output well, nor live very long doing it. Although the 12 sub will probably sound better rolling off at 80hz, it should be okay higher than that. Crossing the 12" off at 90-100 hz will let it do most of the hard work replicating mid-bass sounds, and relieve the other speakers.
Ultimately the crossover point should be what sounds best in the car. With the subwoofer disconnected, and the crossover point set high (150 hz or higher), run the other speakers at the highest level of output you would usually listen to them at. Then lower the crossover point in stages down to about 80hz. At some point you'll hear the speakers straining. That's the point you want to stay above. Once you know what that point is, do the opposite - disconnect the other speakers, and find out how high the subwoofer will run, and still sound good with the music you listen to. You want your crossovers set so that the crossover point is above the lowest point that the small speakers are happy, and below the highest point that the 12" still sounds good. Then with both running, fine tune the settings (always keeping above the bottom threshold for the small speakers) so that the mid-bass reproduction sounds "right" to you. Sometimes it helps to overlap the settings, sometimes you purposely leave a gap. Sometimes the markings are completely off, and you can't tell by looking.
As I recommended on the other thread - you really should find a shop/installer you trust to help with the tuning and troubleshooting.
I guess you can make adjustments to the settings based on numbers, but I wouldn't recommend it.
Ultimately the crossover point should be what sounds best in the car. With the subwoofer disconnected, and the crossover point set high (150 hz or higher), run the other speakers at the highest level of output you would usually listen to them at. Then lower the crossover point in stages down to about 80hz. At some point you'll hear the speakers straining. That's the point you want to stay above. Once you know what that point is, do the opposite - disconnect the other speakers, and find out how high the subwoofer will run, and still sound good with the music you listen to. You want your crossovers set so that the crossover point is above the lowest point that the small speakers are happy, and below the highest point that the 12" still sounds good. Then with both running, fine tune the settings (always keeping above the bottom threshold for the small speakers) so that the mid-bass reproduction sounds "right" to you. Sometimes it helps to overlap the settings, sometimes you purposely leave a gap. Sometimes the markings are completely off, and you can't tell by looking.
As I recommended on the other thread - you really should find a shop/installer you trust to help with the tuning and troubleshooting.
I guess you can make adjustments to the settings based on numbers, but I wouldn't recommend it.
It is always better to set the crossover exactly but on his amp there does not appear to be an exact setting on the amp. It looks to me like the lowest setting is 50hz and the highest is 4k so at best it will be a guess if using the amps crossover. Now, I'd probably let everything pass and set the xover from the HU but for whatever reason it appears his installer is using the crossovers in the amp.
Like I said, I agree with everything you said but I'm just trying to get him in the ballpark as far as the amp crossover settings and honestly I din't think any of the cross over settings are causing his overheating issue.
Last edited by Mike02z; Jul 29, 2009 at 08:55 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 8
From: Issaquah WA
My thought (on the other post he had) was most likely a bad ground. Many installers take shortcuts, and in most cars (metal bodies) almost any metal may be okay. But in the Vette, and if the installer's not used to working in Vettes, a good ground is much harder to find. Bad grounding could definitely be the issue.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 1
From: SE Coast FL
Yeah - that was probably a good place to start at - although I would be worried about running the rear 5 1/4's down to 80 hz... too easy to overdrive them without even realizing it since they're behind the seat. But I'd definitely agree - almost no way the x-over points are causing the heating problem.
My thought (on the other post he had) was most likely a bad ground. Many installers take shortcuts, and in most cars (metal bodies) almost any metal may be okay. But in the Vette, and if the installer's not used to working in Vettes, a good ground is much harder to find. Bad grounding could definitely be the issue.
My thought (on the other post he had) was most likely a bad ground. Many installers take shortcuts, and in most cars (metal bodies) almost any metal may be okay. But in the Vette, and if the installer's not used to working in Vettes, a good ground is much harder to find. Bad grounding could definitely be the issue.
Last edited by jpuli28; Jul 30, 2009 at 09:50 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 8
From: Issaquah WA
That should be the best place to ground the amp (as long as it's on the passenger side - there's a ground point like fej mentions). What guage wire are they running?
Last edited by WAwatchnut; Jul 30, 2009 at 03:56 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,394
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area CA
There is a factory ground point on the passenger side B pillar that works pretty well for a ground. I am currently using the seat post, but plan to move it to the factory ground point the next time I pull the passenger seat.
Fej
Fej
