ignition power wire for stereo
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 14
From: Orlando Fl
ignition power wire for stereo
Where are you guys hooking up your ignition power for your stereo? I need to have the wire that only allows power when the ignition is on.
I had a "friend of a friend" who does this for a living install some JL audio amps with the aftermarket GM harness made just for this (stock head unit) and now, the system is drawing 70 amps - when the car is OFF! I'm guessing he didnt wire the amps to the live wire that is only hot when the car is on but rather to a wire that is always hot.... So, before I get in there, anyone know what wire runs only when the the car is on that i can tap into for the amps? (its a 06 - CO6)
I had a "friend of a friend" who does this for a living install some JL audio amps with the aftermarket GM harness made just for this (stock head unit) and now, the system is drawing 70 amps - when the car is OFF! I'm guessing he didnt wire the amps to the live wire that is only hot when the car is on but rather to a wire that is always hot.... So, before I get in there, anyone know what wire runs only when the the car is on that i can tap into for the amps? (its a 06 - CO6)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 8,718
Likes: 20
From: Dyer IN
Cruise-In IX Veteran
drawing 70 amps is a big issue regardless if the stereo is playing or not, at anything other then high volume levels u shouldnt be drawing near this
are the amps turning off when the car turns off there should be a light on the amp
read the c6 faq it address where you can get switched power
are the amps turning off when the car turns off there should be a light on the amp
read the c6 faq it address where you can get switched power
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 14
From: Orlando Fl
drawing 70 amps is a big issue regardless if the stereo is playing or not, at anything other then high volume levels u shouldnt be drawing near this
are the amps turning off when the car turns off there should be a light on the amp
read the c6 faq it address where you can get switched power
are the amps turning off when the car turns off there should be a light on the amp
read the c6 faq it address where you can get switched power
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
That's my bet, 70mA not 70A. The Fluke 87 that I use at work is only rated for 10A, so unless you used a clamp on meter (which I generally don't trust as being super accurate) your meter may be fibbing to you.
Have you seen my post in your other thread? Sounds like the installer used the correct wire.
If you really are drawing more than a few mA of current, most definitely YES.
As I see it you have 2 options...
1 - Connect the new amps to a true 'ignition switched' wire (you'll lose RAP on the new amp)
2 - Make sure that you are only pulling 70mA, and leave everything as it is. If the radio is off the amps won't need much power at all to stay on for a few minutes, the battery can take it as long as you drive the car on a regular basis.
Have you seen my post in your other thread? Sounds like the installer used the correct wire.
If you really are drawing more than a few mA of current, most definitely YES.
As I see it you have 2 options...
1 - Connect the new amps to a true 'ignition switched' wire (you'll lose RAP on the new amp)
2 - Make sure that you are only pulling 70mA, and leave everything as it is. If the radio is off the amps won't need much power at all to stay on for a few minutes, the battery can take it as long as you drive the car on a regular basis.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 14
From: Orlando Fl
That's my bet, 70mA not 70A. The Fluke 87 that I use at work is only rated for 10A, so unless you used a clamp on meter (which I generally don't trust as being super accurate) your meter may be fibbing to you.
Have you seen my post in your other thread? Sounds like the installer used the correct wire.
If you really are drawing more than a few mA of current, most definitely YES.
As I see it you have 2 options...
1 - Connect the new amps to a true 'ignition switched' wire (you'll lose RAP on the new amp)
2 - Make sure that you are only pulling 70mA, and leave everything as it is. If the radio is off the amps won't need much power at all to stay on for a few minutes, the battery can take it as long as you drive the car on a regular basis.
Have you seen my post in your other thread? Sounds like the installer used the correct wire.
If you really are drawing more than a few mA of current, most definitely YES.
As I see it you have 2 options...
1 - Connect the new amps to a true 'ignition switched' wire (you'll lose RAP on the new amp)
2 - Make sure that you are only pulling 70mA, and leave everything as it is. If the radio is off the amps won't need much power at all to stay on for a few minutes, the battery can take it as long as you drive the car on a regular basis.
I suppose it is certainly possible it was draining 70mA. It was the service writer that told me 70 A so I will try and check back with him...
Would a 70mA constant draw do this though? I drive the car 3-4 times a week...
