I got mine here:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a+95-3304.html

Yes the finish looks almost OEM. They must have revised it from previous versions because the current version looks night and day better than the older ones.

My car does not have OnStar so I got the C2R-GM24 (which is identical to the GMCO but cheaper if you get it from Amazon).

 

Any more feedback, now that you've lived with it for a bit? Specifically the sound deadening and blocking.

 

I second that about Madvette! I am really getting frustrated with them! I am seriously thinking about canceling my order with them and get everything from someone else!

 

The sound deadening is a MUST! And you will make your life a lot easier if you get vibration dampers that come in smaller pieces like mine. I tried using larger Dynamat Extreme stuffs and they are a PIA to install. My stereo sounds great and I love the result. The entire car has a more solid feel to it.

As for the sound blocking I cannot say for sure. Since the results are not as obvious. It took me a month to do a entire project so quite frankly I do not remember what the car sounds like prior to the install. That and driving a BMW for that whole month does not help. The BMW is extremely quiet.

As I said before, my car does have a more solid feel to it now. I cannot say if the car is quieter now but I can say that the character of the sound is different. Not sure how to describe it but my car feels more expensive if that makes any sense. I do not feel like I am sitting in a car that lacks insulation like before. I should also add that before I did the install there were 3-4 rattles in the car. Now there are ZERO! Everything is solid.

Would I do it over if I had a month to work on my car, yes. If I'm pressed for money and time. I might skip the MLV and even the foil kit (except in the tunnel). So if you hear guys saying their car is quieter with just the foil kit. Take it with a grain of salt. I did the vibration damper, MLV, foil, and closed cell foam and I can barely tell if the cabin is quieter. With regard to vibration damper, I highly recommend it. Just do not cover 100% of the surface area like some of the guys here. A waste of time and money. I covered about 35% of the area and the results are fantastic!

Sorry to hear. Yes they have horrible service. I will never buy anything from them again. I had to file a dispute with the credit card company for them to send me my stuffs. Never again.

 

Fantastic write-up!!!

This is my DD, so I'm "pressed for money and time". What would you suggest for a bare minimum? Should I just do the doors and trunk with the vibration damper? And what quantity should I order?

Also, I don't want to do this myself, so does anyone know an installer around the LA/OC area familiar with Don's/SDS method?

 

Click here for minimum package. Add two more yards of p/s ensolite and you can easily cover the entire interior with foam.

 

Thanks Mark. MS04 seemed to suggest that most of the material that he used didn't make much of a difference, if I'm reading this right:
"So if you hear guys saying their car is quieter with just the foil kit. Take it with a grain of salt. I did the vibration damper, MLV, foil, and closed cell foam and I can barely tell if the cabin is quieter."

IF that's true, and if I want to save money and weight, shouldn't I go only with the vibration damper? I'm trying to follow the 80/20 philosophy here: 20% of the work for 80% of the benefit.

 

The two layers work together. Dampener is used on larger areas to prevent them from resonating and creating or amplifying noise, and the foam is used as an actual sound barrier for noises from outside entering the car. Individually they aren't as effective.

If weight is a concern I think I'd skip the heavy dampener and go with full foam coverage, possibly with two layers in the center of larger surfaces (behind seats, rear hatch, doors).

If you're trying to save some effort during the install, the hardest part is removing the interior to get at the surface. Once you're at that point the actual deadener installation is peel and stick, so eliminating deadener materials to make the install easier doesn't work out.

 

I was not able to tell noticeable noise reduction difference after the install. The radio shack dB digital meter did not record any difference either. Maybe it's limited by what frequency it's measuring.

However, my stereo sounded a lot better. The door sounded much more sturdy when you close it. I'm sure that's due to the vibration damper material in combination with the other material.

The vibration damper stuff and the MLV weigh the most if weight is your concern. Unfortunately I don't know enough to tell you more about what part to skip. Perhaps the car is too loud for any amount of sound insulation.

 

I just found this thread. I'm about to start my audio install soon. Still gathering parts. I have a new 2013 Grand Sport that I bought striped because like you, I enjoy doing what you did here. I totaled my C5 recently and one comment the insurance adjuster made was about the high quality aftermarket sound system. He gave me 4 grand towards it. I had less than 1k in the system. It just sounded really good. Looks to me and based on your pics, the C6 and the C5 are nearly the same inside. Cool for me. Been there, done that. Outstanding write up. It's nice seeing that I'm not the only **** one when it comes to doing things like this. Nice job.

 

Glad you're ok and congrats for getting extra money for the new car. Nothing feels better than free money. I had a C5Z too and yes they are almost identical. I had a lot of fun with the project. I think you will too. And for sure you'll enjoy your car even more. Post up your install when you're done.

 

Good evening MSO4

I'm doing a similar install (MLV + 3M Thinsulate. The previous owner installed Dynamat + some sort of foam across the whole vehicle) and I'm having a bit of an issue getting everything to fit properly near the top of the door panel. It's a little overly tight about 6" from the top towards the rear end of the vehicle. It's right at the uppermost seam on the door panel. I can see the door flexing at that seam when I re-install it, but it will go back on, albeit tightly.

Anyways--I just wanted to see if you had any similar issues and if so, any advice on how to resolve them. Next weekend I'll pull it back apart and put some more effort into making it fit right on, but figured it was worth asking.

Then I'll be trying to stuff some 3M Thinsulate Acoustic in any area I have left that it'll fit.. that should be especially interesting

 

Nice details and pics