I'm needing a new sub and need to know if this will work.

First, i've gone through 2 JL 10w3v2d4's in the past 4 yrs. I don't know why they keep blowing, but i'm assuming too much power from my old early 2000's 2 ch. Rockford Fosgate Punch 500 wired mono. The first from when I bought the car used 4 yrs. ago and the second purchased a couple years ago. The second most recent one to go started fading in and out and finally stopped working after a week or two. It was tuned by Car Toys where I purchased just the sub.

The enclosure is a Probox C5110.



It has airspace of: 0.90 cu. ft. Mounting Depth: 6.50.

I'm thinking of going with a Polk SR104 DVC. Polk audio recommends that this driver be used in a 0.88 cubic foot enclosure.

Do you think that .02 difference will mean anything if I have to use a spacer to get 7" of mount depth?

Also, is 500 w for this 700 rms sub too little power and cause the same problems?

 

You're probably fine with the airspace. If anything, you'll be running a slightly too small box, as Polk's recommended airspace probably doesn't include speaker displacement (the amount of air inside the enclosure that the speaker takes up), and the speaker box almost certainly doesn't (it can't without knowing what kind of speaker is loaded into the box).

The 10" Polk probably displaces 0.08 cu ft of air, so your effective box size will be about 0.82 cu ft. (Unfortunately Polk's online information for the speaker is incorrect - the online manual link give you the 6.5"/5.25" component speaker manual) You'll lose a bit of low end, and change the response curve of the speaker, but probably nothing too dramatic at that small of a difference. You could use one of the freeware subwoofer box design programs if you're curious about the exact impact. Using a spacer will help get closer to the recommended size. There was a review on this sub, and they used a smaller than recommended box, to get better dampening.... at 0.811 cu ft, it's probably a good example of what you might expect:

http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/sr_review.pdf


The problem with 500 watts for a 700 watt rated speaker is mostly that that woofer is designed to handle more power, at a bit of a sacrifice in efficiency. So if you're trying to play it as loud as possible, you won't get optimum volume from the subwoofer/amp combo. Which will probably lead you to turn the volume higher, which will bring you closer to clipping with the amp. It's generally distorted output from an amplifier that damages the speaker in this situation.

But if you can maintain some self control, and if you're not driving the amp to it's limits, you shouldn't have any issues.

 

First off, thanks for the reply.

I have not gotten the speaker yet. I'm just really interested in it. I could go with a 10w6 instead if it would be better. I think there is less mount deptch and a lower RMS and air space right?

I'm trying not to have to switch boxes and amps as that would be costly and a hassle. Just want to find a good sub for the what I have. Which would you go with?

 

I just found the specifications for both of the drivers you're looking at. Polk actually recommends a .66 cu ft box for the SR104. The speaker displacement is .12 cu ft. So internal box volume should ideally be 0.78 cu ft. So you'll be running a bit bigger of a box than recommended. You could put in some filler to take up some of that airspace. The efficiency is actually pretty good on that speaker - a bit higher than the JL 10W6. So there shouldn't be any problem running the Polk with the power you have, and the enclosure.

With the JL 10W6, you'll have too big of a box (recommended 0.625 cu ft + 0.068 speaker displacement = 0.705 cu ft enclosure) which will limit it's power handling, and you'll be running enough power to max out the speaker even in the ideal box. So it's a less ideal solution.

This is purely from a spec perspective though.

 

try a rockford p3 slim line. i am using that in a stealth box.. works perfect

 

I looked at those. Something about shallow mounts have me thinking they were made with a compromise though. I'm looking for something better than the W3's this time around and the SR104's are looking better and better now for the type of box I have.

I think running too much power and space on the old W3's was the problem.

Thanks for all the input, guys.

 

true on the shalllow mounts.. they dont sound as good to me but i didnt really have a choice..

 

The stealthbox is much smaller than the Probox (.5 cu ft vs. .9 cu ft), so the P2 Shallow mount is probably not a very good match (Good speaker though!). Power handling on the P3's is too low as well.

The Power series (I) from Rockford may work - but the efficiency's lower. The OP could get a Power 10" in a dual 2 ohm voice coil version. The the Punch 500 (I'm assuming it's a P500-2, since it's "wired in mono", and not a P500-bd which is a mono amp) could run at 4 ohms bridged, which would (according to Rockford) double the power output.

The Rockford Fosgate Power 10" (T110D2 or T110D4) would be the one I'd look at. About $200, 600W power handling, less than 7" mounting depth, needs about a .8 cu ft enclosure. But I've always had a soft spot for RF subwoofers.

 

Ok, i'm an idiot. I've had this thing forever and can't believe i've been thinking this whole time that it was a 500. It's actually an 800 a2!

Wow! Have I been running 800 into that little w3?

So, what does this do to my setup now?

Here are the specs:

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scrip...ted=1083781892

How would I wire the one SR104 or the T110D4 and why? And, should I go single or dual voice coil?

 

Well, you weren't running 800W into the JL... but you were pushing around 400w, so no wonder those suckers got toasted! (The JL is a dual 4 ohm voice coil, so you were running the amp at 4ohm stereo, or 8 ohm bridged).

Running at 4 ohms bridged, that amp will (according to Rockford) put out 800w. At 8 ohms bridged, it's good for 400w.

So you have some options. You can get a single voice coil driver, or a dual voice coil driver. And you can run the amp at 400w output or 800w.

The main drawback to running it at 800w is drain on the battery/electrical system of the car, and heat generation. If you don't have any reason to worry about the car's electricals, and the amp has adequate cooling, there shouldn't be any issues with the amp running at 800w. To do that, you need to run the amp bridged, at a 4ohm load. That means you need a single 4 ohm voice coil, or dual 8 ohm voice coils. Or dual 2 ohm voice coils.

You have quite a few options.

Do you want the most output possible out of the amp? Get a 4ohm SVC subwoofer, or 8ohm DVC rated to 700-800 watts.

Is 400w enough? Get a 4 ohm DVC or 8ohm SVC speaker, rated to 400 watts.

The Polk has a version either way - at 700w power handling, it gives up some efficiency if you're running the amp at 400w.

Rockford has a lower power version (T1) and a higher power version (T2). The T2 is a lot more expensive, but if you're looking to maximize output, the T2 is rated at 800w.

I haven't compared these speakers directly, so I can't help with specific recommendations.

 

I've heard good things about the Sound splinter Rl-i10, and would have used it in my install if I could have got it to fit.

http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli10_s...formation.html

 

I couldn't stand not having bass any longer and found a really good deal. I decided to go with a RF P3D410. *I think the probox is still too big. What kind and how much filler should i use? I want to run it at it's rms of 400. *How do I wire the speaker terminal? *The previous w3 I had was wired weird. *It had a short wire going from 1 terminal to another on the speaker and then the actual wires from the left/right connector on the inside of the speaker box to the 2 other terminals on the speaker. *

I'm still using the punch 800 too. *Do I set it for just low pass? *What about punch bass and gains?

Below are the links to the P3 & 800a2 pdf if u need it.

Thanks in advance!

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec..._P3Sub-MAN.pdf

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/libra...ultiCh-MAN.pdf

 

Bump.

I've been doing some research and it looks like my only options are 8 or 2 ohm mono. Is this correct? I think the w3 was wired in series. Is this the best way to get 400 x1 or is it not good to run 8 ohm on this thing. The manual says 4 and 2 stable.

 

I just use cut up 2x4s to occupy volume.

 

Great idea. How do I figure out how many or how large of a block I'd need?

Turns out that I'm going to have to mount this inverted because I'm 2 inches too high on mount depth.

Any suggestions?

 

Nevermind. Just called Fosgate tech support and they told me it would be fine without filler. Weird. Guess I'll just plug it in and go!