I'm going to install a new HU in a 02 Z06. I'm not going to use the stock speakers, I'm going to use 4 new speakers with new wires. The new speaker wires will wire direct to the new HU. Can I use this plug to mate up with the stock GM plug for power & ground?

 

Can't tell about the plug with that pic, but if you want the door subs to keep working you'll also have to connect the line-out from the new radio to the stock harness, along with the 'remote turn on' wire. Also, there isn't a 'switched' wire in the stock harness, you'd have to use a wire in the fuse box area (and loose RAP) or buy an interface adapter like the GMRAP or Accessory Valet to maintain rap.

Something like this would do all of that for you.

 

Where does the stock unit gets it's power? So if you have no speakers, no sub amp and no subs you still have to have an interface for RAP and switched and accessory power?

 

The stock harness has a constany battery +, ground, and class2 data wire. The oem radio listens in on the data line and turns on/off when the other computers in the car tell it to.

There's an accessory wire in the footwell with a normal switched power wire if you don't need to keep rap.

In a C5 the radio powers the 4 twiddlers, but the big subs in the doors get a line level input from the radio and have internal amps. Removing those subs would leave you with almost no low end. The adapter does everything needed to keep them functioning, but it isn't required if you can read a schematic and do the wiring yourself.

 

Mark, don't worry about speakers. I'm trying to understand power. If you use an interface to power an aftermarket HU do you have to have another power wire from someplace else? I want to keep RAP.

 

NO. The interface adapter will use the existing ground and constant battery connections in the stock harness. It will also listen in on the data wire and supply a RAP controlled switched power source for the new HU. The new HU will power on/off just like the OEM did.

If you're completely gutting the stock speakers and all you want to do is maintain RAP, that can be done with the $42 GMRAP or the more expensive AV, but they both need to be spliced into wires (they don't come with a plug that matches up to the stock radio harness).

The problem with gutting the stock speakers is that you'll have no real low end to your music unless you add an aftermarket sub in the trunk. The OEM setup in the doors has a 3.5" 'full range' twiddler that's powered by the radio's internal amp, and a self-powered sub that gets a line level signal from the radio. Even the best 6.5" component set can't put out as much bass as the factory door subs.

If you're only planning on replacing the 3.5" twiddlers, and keeping the door subs functional, then a full function interface adapter is the way to go (unless you really enjoy splicing wires in cramped locations). There are several to choose from. The interface will pass the speaker level signals to your four twiddlers, it will give the subs a line level source, and it will use the new HU 'remote turn on' wire to power up the subs when your radio is on (power for the subs goes through a relay in the fuse box, new HU won't supply the actual power, just a trigger).

If that's what you do, you don't need to run new wires to your speakers, just use the oem wires on the new speakers. The oem fronts should have spade connections, but I believe the rears will need an adapter harness if you don't want to splice.

If you remove the door subs and install 6.5" aftermarket speakers in the doors, then all you need is a GMRAP. You'll have to splice in the GMRAP, run new wires to all four speakers, and DIY or buy adapter plates for the door speaker mounts.

Does that clear it up

 

Mark, I know I've been a pain in the a**. But understanding the power side of our stereo's is not an easy thing to learn. Just when I think I'm understanding then something else screws me up. I think this is what I need to do.

"If you remove the door subs and install 6.5" aftermarket speakers in the doors, then all you need is a GMRAP. You'll have to splice in the GMRAP, run new wires to all four speakers, and DIY or buy adapter plates for the door speaker mounts."

I've ordered the adapter plates from Corvette Car Audio, I've ordered the face plate from MAPtech and a Kenwood KDC-X994 HU and Infinity Kappa speakers from Crutchfields. Now I just need to order the GMRAP. Thanks for all of your help. From Crutchfields I'm getting a FREE JVC KS-AX4302 amp. Maybe I'll use it in the future.

Thanks for all of your help.

 

The forum is my 'escape' that I use to relax. If I didn't want to be here helping (most of the time), I wouldn't.

That HU looks similar to the one I had in my C5, I think you're going to like it

That free amp is perfect if you want to add a sub in the trunk. While you're installing the new HU you may want to plan ahead...
-connect a new set of RCA cables to the 'subwoofer out' on the HU and run them to the rear wall of the trunk
-also connect a single wire to the 'remote amp turn on' lead of the new HU and run it to the same place (be sure to tape up the loose end of the wire)

If you run those wires now, that would prevent you from having to tear apart the dash when you decide you need more bass All you'd need to do is run a new power wire to the battery, mount the amp on the rear wall, ground it in the back, and run a short speaker wire to your DIY sub box in the center tub. It can easily be done for about $100.

 

That free amp is perfect if you want to add a sub in the trunk. While you're installing the new HU you may want to plan ahead...
-connect a new set of RCA cables to the 'subwoofer out' on the HU and run them to the rear wall of the trunk
-also connect a single wire to the 'remote amp turn on' lead of the new HU and run it to the same place (be sure to tape up the loose end of the wire)

Mark you are the man!!!!!

Thanks a GREAT idea.