If you are thinking of moving your tweeters to the A-pillars, It made a big difference not that I am a expert at this stuff. But it makes a hugh difference in sound stage.

 

This is definitely part of my planned install. Did you do this yourself? Looks good from what I can tell.

 

I have been advocating this for 10+ years, superb way to improve the sound stage in nearly all cars, very much so in a Vette.

Unfortunately I have a way to do it without all the work you have done but not in a Vette. I pulled my pillars today, going to take more work than my favorite down and dirty, get er gone, looks great, works great method.

I looked at my C6 and C5 pillars, both require some molding to make it happen, still worth it though!

----

If you have not done so try reversing the polarity of the wires to the tweeters, pos to neg, neg to pos. This will induce a slight amount of delay and helps couple the arrival time to your ears which is a big improvement on it's own.

Thanks for posting this

Rick

 

Rick keep me posted on that pillar mod as i am still interested!!

Rick

 

Unfortunately this is more than I thought it would be so I will have to have them made for me, cost more, etc but I promise worth every penny! I just do not have the time to make these, far to demanding on my already never enough time. I have a buddy that will do the job very nicely though and for a decent cost compared to what one off customs would run.

I am calling him today or tomorrow to get him going on it, I have him lined up for other parts as well already and making up some prototypes to work off of.

BUT, Framewise, if you have some time are you interested in making me a few sets while I am waiting for my buddy to get going????

Good day
Rick

 

This is definitely on my to-do list to followup the audio install on the wife's C5. I have noticed it needs the tweeters moved there if I am to improve the sound. I have noticed the tweeters are located in the same spot on my factory Monsoon system in my '08 H3 Hummer and it makes a big difference.

 

Rick, do you switch both tweeters +/- or just one side? I was thinking of adding a RF 360.2 to help with time correction. Thoughts

 

"BUT, Framewise, if you have some time are you interested in making me a few sets while I am waiting for my buddy to get going???? "

If I could fine a better source (price) for the A-pillars, I might be able to help out. I will look around.

 

Using this setup I normally run the mids in phase and the tweets out of phase, the same on each side of the car.

When running kick panels I usually end up with a midrange reversed from one side or the other, tweets both in phase.

I consider TA a band aid if you are building a true audiophile system. I have hardly ever used it, hardly ever had it and then if I used it just a tiny amount.

I prefer to have adjustable crossover slopes and freqs to setup a system with.

BUT, getting the drivers in the best place first is the most important, kick panels being my favorite, horns would be incredible in these cars though with mids in the kicks, mmmmmmm, I am going to do that on the Studevette project!

The cool thing about mids in doors, tweets in kicks is you can have a very good system with very little work and not to hard to tune.

I did one install where I have much adjustability and it did not even need EQing, a once in a lifetime build I am sure and it was not mine

Rick

 

I can get A pillars for a pretty good price, they have to be rewrapped anyway so damaged finish is not a problem. Not sure how many they have, I will look into it

We should have a chat on the phone soon!

Thanks

Rick

 

Sorry I missed you call, work! Call me when you get a break tomorrow.

 

nice job! which tweeters did you use?

 

Focal 165 KPS - K2 Power 6-1/2" 2-Way Component System

Here is a outside picture of it, not a good one . But the one I have.

 

Yes, it works well bouncing off the windshield. I did this mod on my 2 C5's (coupe and convertible) since it was impossible to hear the high's and lows when traveling in the convertible with the top down. I just need time to tear apart my C6 convertible to do this mod.

My biggest challenge with the C6 convertible is finding a suitable replacement for the existing 10" speakers or custom building a sub for the rear (and of course replacing the wimpy BOSE amplifier). Like all convertibles, real estate is at a premium and the C6 is very tight.

 

I have the perfect amp or amps, very low weight and real power without being D class

I also had one of our great members cars in my buddies shop today and finishing up next week on our super low weight, high quality enclosure to fit the IDQ10V3 sub, we are expecting around 6-7 lbs!!!

How? Baltic Birch plywood where we have to use wood, fiberglass as much as possible, etc.......I have build dozens of custom sub systems with a sub that was 2lbs lighter and the finished product, carpeted, speaker terminals, ready to drop in and a much harder design under 17 lbs for another car. We should be somewhere in the 19 lb range for the Vette with a sub that weighs 12 lbs and is really an 11" sub with superb SQ and output.

Once you hear the IDQ you will want one if you are now running just about anything else, especially that J_ brand Of course that is if you like accurate reproduction instead of a "signature sound".

It will fit both the C6 coupe and convertible and of course the Z06.

I am going to start a new thread with some of this info

Rick

 

Interesting. Where would you mount an IDQ10V3 sub box in a convertible? That speaker seems too large & deep for the trunk of a C6. I have a JL Audio 8W7 sitting in my closet that I was going to have mounted in a custom box for the right rear trunk corner but it would have been too large for the trunk space provided.

Ed

 

Drivers side storage bin will provide quite a bit of the air space needed, the sub will be angled into the corner as far as possible and using mostly all fiberglass it will as compact as it can be made and again lower in weight. It will fit, the project is already underway

The reason for the drivers side instead of the passenger side is Z06 cars have the battery over there and anybody really into performance mods will do the same on their C6 coupe or vert. Normally I would only put the sub on the passenger side and we may eventually have one for there if enough demand. Personally I need to install an accusump and may move the battery back to open up the area up front for the accumulator though looking at under car areas in the rear but some of the weight location gains are offset but needing much longer lines that will be filled with oil. I also have to add another trans cooler, have the Z06 oil cooler to install, etc.......running out of room!

Sending a PM

 

The drivers side rear storage bin will provide a nice part of the airspace, then angle back and tucked into the corner as far as we can, using mostly fiberglass will reduce the trunk space used dramatically, etc, it will fit, we have one nearly done

Here are the published specs, easy to see just how much better the ID will and not just louder and play lower, it will sound better and weight much less. I weighed the ID myself.

IDQ10V3 8W7

Weight 12lbs 17lbs 5lbs!
Xmas 19mm 19mm Same
Piston area .0399 .0245 Nearly double, much louder!
Mounting depth 5.75" 6.83" Not terribly critical
Box volume .75 .875 Ours will be a bit under but ok
QTS .384 .612 JL way to high!
SPL 85db 82.7db ID more efficient, louder!
FS 25.5 35.2 ID far lower extension

The IDQ will fit and is much better all the way around, I find no reason to even consider the JL in the same class as the ID, not even mentioning the "signature sound" of the JL subs which is not entirely musically accurate.

I am taking the time, which I never really have enough of, to post this to help my fellow Vette owners see there are just better ways to go.

For those that like their JL subs(and other gear) great, be happy and I really mean it

For those that want to move beyond the market hype, I am here to help you get more for your money

Rick