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This is a word of warning to those running this fuse holder as I have since found out I am not the only one this has happened to. While running the stereo at moderately loud listening levels (no where near full tilt) the system started distoring and cutting in and out. I brought the volume way down and being on the highway I was in no place to pull over well a min later the stereo cut out totally so I shut the headunit down.
I stopped at a gas station and happened to have my tool box with me, put the DMM on the amp and 8.5 volts, so I start heading forward till I get to the fuse holder and find this.
Mind you the fuse never blew yet the holder got melted to **** (no it isnt near anything hot under the hood). Thank god it didnt hit any metal since some of the actual holder became exposed as this could have done some serious damage. So I proceeded to drive home for 2 hours with no music, it almost made me wish I had rear fill on headunit power
Stuff like that happens at work quite a bit, 24vDC is the worst offender. Most of the time it's due to the wire being loose in the terminal, but some times shiznit just happens
yeah kinda sad since i used them alot and recommend them to alot of people. i have since found out im not the only one with same specific model. i guess i need to get a stinger or something. naturally i had a spare knukonceptz laying around and put that in for the time being. One that melted was prly 4-5 years old, my one buddy had one go in a few months though, i think its low quality metal, must not conduct well, voltage drops, current jacks up
Im convinced that there fuses dont blow period, if that was a 40amp fuse i bet it never would have blown
Stinger has a great reputation. I've always used either Stinger of Streetwires for fusing and distribution. It's important to get a solid copper block, most quality ones have gold plating to prevent corrosion.
I have 12 year old, 160k miles, Stinger Platinum in my old Tacoma, I was running 3,800 watts RMS for over a year and many many shows, 12 hours playing none stop, etc......the stuff still looks great today!
I paid nearly retail for that stuff, quite a bit of it needed, and turned down free top line (and insanely overpriced) big name brand because I liked Stinger the best.
But I normally use welding cable for power wires, Wire King or other lower cost but good speaker wires, make my own super high end RCA cables, etc........
Also knukonceptz basically claims its from a loose connection causing too much heat. Both sides were tight still and like I said I know a few others who have had same exact issue with same fuse block. Ill be sticking with stinger from here out. That reminds me I have the same one in the other car guess I need to go look at it
That sucks. Lucky there wasn't a fire or damage to your amps. Thanks for the heads up. I used to use circuit breakers exculsively back in my car audio days. Some would scoff at the idea of using circuit breakers, and talk about them deteriorating over time, however, my logic was I would never use a fuse in my electrical box at home, and given the same choice, I would rather a breaker on my car.
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