Stereo install wiring question
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Harrisburg Pa
Stereo install wiring question
Hello all,
I am about to install my first Nav system in four or five years in my C6 vert with Bose. I have several questions:
1. What is the best way to connect the wires on the harness to the GMCO? I previously crimped the wires but I always feel like there has to be a better way for a tighter connection (unless I am doing it wrong...I am self taught).
2. I am hooking up the Kenwood DNX9960 (top of the line NAV). Do I want to use the Bose amp or not? If so, how do I not use it...or use it? If I am using it do I just plug in the RCA's on the NAV to the RCA's on the HU?
3. Finally (for now), how difficult is it to actually get to the stereo. I've seen a write up on this forum and it didn't look too difficult....are there any tips or tricks I should know?
Thanks in advance for all your help!
Patrick
I am about to install my first Nav system in four or five years in my C6 vert with Bose. I have several questions:
1. What is the best way to connect the wires on the harness to the GMCO? I previously crimped the wires but I always feel like there has to be a better way for a tighter connection (unless I am doing it wrong...I am self taught).
2. I am hooking up the Kenwood DNX9960 (top of the line NAV). Do I want to use the Bose amp or not? If so, how do I not use it...or use it? If I am using it do I just plug in the RCA's on the NAV to the RCA's on the HU?
3. Finally (for now), how difficult is it to actually get to the stereo. I've seen a write up on this forum and it didn't look too difficult....are there any tips or tricks I should know?
Thanks in advance for all your help!
Patrick
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Hey Patrick,
For question 1 I'd say strip & solder your head unit connections to the GMCO and if you have some heat shrink tubing to go around the soldered connections that's perfect, but some good ol' black tape will get it done too.,
Question 2 - if you are not replacing the amp as well then use the Bose amp, it has the crossovers, etc built in to feed the system properly. Check the FAQ stickied at the top of this section for my article on the best way to feed the signal.
Question 3 - Again check the FAQ, it isn't hard at all.
For question 1 I'd say strip & solder your head unit connections to the GMCO and if you have some heat shrink tubing to go around the soldered connections that's perfect, but some good ol' black tape will get it done too.,
Question 2 - if you are not replacing the amp as well then use the Bose amp, it has the crossovers, etc built in to feed the system properly. Check the FAQ stickied at the top of this section for my article on the best way to feed the signal.
Question 3 - Again check the FAQ, it isn't hard at all.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Harrisburg Pa
Thanks for the quick reply. I found the answers to 1 & 3 in the FAQ but I didn't see anything about how to set up the factory amp with the aftermarket stereo/GMCO....but maybe I am must missing it.
Could you point me in the right direction?
Thanks!
Could you point me in the right direction?
Thanks!
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
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From: North Augusta, SC
There isn't anything that can be 'set up' on the stock amp 
Plug the GMCO into the car harness, connect the power wires, RCA plugs, and whatever other misc wires you need (VSS, dimmer...), then turn it on
Click here for a great DIY install thread. The only thing I can think of that isn't in it is to use the gray wire on the TC/AH button for the dimmer wire.
Using the stock amp setup isn't all bad. If you replace the 3.5" twiddlers in the doors it actually sounds pretty good. Polk db351 or Boston Acoustic S35 are popular replacements.
Plug the GMCO into the car harness, connect the power wires, RCA plugs, and whatever other misc wires you need (VSS, dimmer...), then turn it on
Click here for a great DIY install thread. The only thing I can think of that isn't in it is to use the gray wire on the TC/AH button for the dimmer wire.
Using the stock amp setup isn't all bad. If you replace the 3.5" twiddlers in the doors it actually sounds pretty good. Polk db351 or Boston Acoustic S35 are popular replacements.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Harrisburg Pa
Thanks again for all the help. Ok, I just connected most of the wires. I plan on taking apart the C6 for the first time tomorrow. In the mean time, could somebody double check my wiring? I have a C6 Vert with Bose and no onstar and I'm using the GMCO and a Kenwood DNX9960 nav:
yellow GMCO to yellow HU
Black GMCO to Black HU & green parking brake cable (for the bypass)
Red GMCO to Red HU
Blue Power antenna GMCO to Blue/white PControl HU
RCA's on GMC to RCA's on HU with Ground Loop Isolator
The GMCO has wires that I am not sure about: orange (dash light illumination) and orange/white (dimmer). The HU wire is orange/white and says dimmer so do I just connect those or should I tie in the orange cable as well?
Finally, I am not using the HU's Blue Ant. Cont wire for anything. Do I need that connected to anything for better radio reception?
Thanks again for all the help!
yellow GMCO to yellow HU
Black GMCO to Black HU & green parking brake cable (for the bypass)
Red GMCO to Red HU
Blue Power antenna GMCO to Blue/white PControl HU
RCA's on GMC to RCA's on HU with Ground Loop Isolator
The GMCO has wires that I am not sure about: orange (dash light illumination) and orange/white (dimmer). The HU wire is orange/white and says dimmer so do I just connect those or should I tie in the orange cable as well?
Finally, I am not using the HU's Blue Ant. Cont wire for anything. Do I need that connected to anything for better radio reception?
Thanks again for all the help!
Last edited by PR4424; Apr 10, 2010 at 01:24 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
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From: North Augusta, SC
The wires you detailed look correct.
Forget about the blue antenna wire from the HU, just tape the end so it doesn't short out.
The two orange wires on the gmco are useless for C6, just tape them also.
The other wires from the HU don't NEED to be connected, but can be in other areas of the car if you want to. The HU dimmer wire connects to the gray wire at the TC/AH button, check out this thread for details on the other wires.
Forget about the blue antenna wire from the HU, just tape the end so it doesn't short out.
The two orange wires on the gmco are useless for C6, just tape them also.
The other wires from the HU don't NEED to be connected, but can be in other areas of the car if you want to. The HU dimmer wire connects to the gray wire at the TC/AH button, check out this thread for details on the other wires.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Harrisburg Pa
Ok, so I finished most of the install...I just a have few things to take care of. One of the issues I am having is I only get certain radio stations that are extremely close. I am think that the amplified antenna is not powering on. How can I get that to power on?
Patrick
Patrick
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5th Gear
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Unclear about the antenna wire
I have a 2007 non-Bose which I installed a AVIC-X710BT. I used a C2R-GM24 (GMC0). I retained the OEM amps. I have the blue antenna enable wire from the HU connected to the blue wire marked "Antenna" on the GMCO. I now get an very loud POP from the speakers when the unit shuts down. Should I be connecting the remote amp enable wire from the HU to the Antenna wire instead if that is also the signal for the amp to power on? Would that make my POP go away?
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Harrisburg Pa
I took my stereo apart again and found the antenna wire had gotten disconnected when I pushed the stereo back in. I pushed the antenna cable back in and everything works great now.
I do not have the power antenna cable connected from the HU at all. Just the blue/white pcontrol on the HU to the blue power antenna cable on the GMCO.
From what I have read on the forums, you need two RCA Ground Loop isolators in between your GMCO RCA's and your head units RCA's. That should get rid of the popping sound (from what I have read).
Good luck!
I do not have the power antenna cable connected from the HU at all. Just the blue/white pcontrol on the HU to the blue power antenna cable on the GMCO.
From what I have read on the forums, you need two RCA Ground Loop isolators in between your GMCO RCA's and your head units RCA's. That should get rid of the popping sound (from what I have read).
Good luck!
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
I took my stereo apart again and found the antenna wire had gotten disconnected when I pushed the stereo back in. I pushed the antenna cable back in and everything works great now.
I do not have the power antenna cable connected from the HU at all. Just the blue/white pcontrol on the HU to the blue power antenna cable on the GMCO.
From what I have read on the forums, you need two RCA Ground Loop isolators in between your GMCO RCA's and your head units RCA's. That should get rid of the popping sound (from what I have read).
Good luck!
I do not have the power antenna cable connected from the HU at all. Just the blue/white pcontrol on the HU to the blue power antenna cable on the GMCO.
From what I have read on the forums, you need two RCA Ground Loop isolators in between your GMCO RCA's and your head units RCA's. That should get rid of the popping sound (from what I have read).
Good luck!
The rest of your post is correct also
I have a 2007 non-Bose which I installed a AVIC-X710BT. I used a C2R-GM24 (GMC0). I retained the OEM amps. I have the blue antenna enable wire from the HU connected to the blue wire marked "Antenna" on the GMCO. I now get an very loud POP from the speakers when the unit shuts down. Should I be connecting the remote amp enable wire from the HU to the Antenna wire instead if that is also the signal for the amp to power on? Would that make my POP go away?
The pop would probably go away if you installed two GLI's, but it may be caused by something else (most gmco installs don't get the pop).
