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8" components for doors

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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 01:52 AM
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Default 8" components for doors

Thinking of upgrading the system in my 99 FRC. I really like how the Bose system has somewhat decent bass up front. My plan was to do a single 12" in the back, and a really good set of fronts. But, I'd really like to keep some mid-bass up front. Any suggestions? 2 way or 3 way?
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by kingrobby25
Thinking of upgrading the system in my 99 FRC. I really like how the Bose system has somewhat decent bass up front. My plan was to do a single 12" in the back, and a really good set of fronts. But, I'd really like to keep some mid-bass up front. Any suggestions? 2 way or 3 way?
focal k2, should do it 4 u
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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Is that an 8" component set? Guess I will do a search. If its what you run how do you like them, and how much power ya given them?
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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I was also looking at CDT HD-82's (HD-842's too) and the Dynaudio mark 240mkII.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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Be prepared to deaden, then more, and I recommend my Alumalite filler plates for the huge access holes in the doors, aluminum channels on the outer skin, and aluminum channel behind the are where the speaker mounts, you need to really go all out on these doors if you want a ton of midbass from them and not have them resonate like mad, I know, been there, done that, went back to a great 6.5 setup.

I run the Image Dynamics x69, one of the very few ever properly engineered oval speakers, in my truck doors with full size horns, incredible midbass from them. I have a set here I am going to try one more install in the C6 doors(C5 is not going to be much different in what this would take) and I have already done a ton of work to my doors and will have to do more.

I am only going to do this after I install the horns under the dash, play with everything and see if I am happy with the ID x65 midbass drivers already running in them now. They are very very good midbass drivers, super low weight, etc...for any real level of listening they should be more than enough but I like take your head off loud sometimes

I am going to run a single IDQ12 or dual IDQ10 subs with the horn front stage.

I just happen to be OEM Licensed with ID so if you are interested in any of their products, at great system prices, give me a call, 801-829-4997

Also, my Alumalite filler plates, speaker baffles, super low weight, do not need matted saving even more weight, channels(or make your own) to stiffen the doors, etc.....keeps from adding a ton of weight to our Super Cars

Thanks, have a great day!
Rick
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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Hey, thanks for the reply. If those ID 6.5's are as good as you say, maybe thats all I need. Can always upgrade to the 6x9's later if needed. I saw your earlier post on the HLCD's and always wanted to do a set of those. I'm curious to hear about your install and set up. Sounds like it matches what I want to do pretty closely. I will definitely keep you in mind when I go to get this stuff all started.
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 10:53 AM
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I have dynaudio 8s which are pretty much the best 8s you can get that are capable of being used in a 2 way. That said, if I wasn't so lazy I'd go back to 6.5s.

8's roll off REALLY QUICK which means your tweeter has to play lower.
And in my case (350 watts each) they are way, way too much for the door. They excite my heavily deadened door panel so much I have to cut them down like crazy on the EQ.


The ID 6x9s might be the way to go...


FWIW, my daily driver has inexpensive pioneer 6.5s up front and dual ARC 8s in the back. I have plenty of up-front midbass and well balanced bass in general... it's pretty much all coming from the sub.

It's all about tuning and integration.
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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The ID X65 midbasses are superb sounding, get plenty loud and certainly play low enough to cover all we need, it is just for very high output, killer midbass(most have never heard this in person, very very few systems ever built that way) it takes more displacement, i.e. bigger or more speakers.

I have had dual 7" Dynaudio midbasses with 200 watts each of McIntosh power and dual custom ID 6.5s with 300 watts each of Arc Audio power, both were stellar, the IDs were even better than the Dyn setup, really. That was in my old competition truck.

Now I have the ID x69s with 250 watts in my Duramax and have a ton of midbass, plenty for horns, even at head pounding listening levels. Superb sounding, all I would ever want in any install, that good. So, going to those from the 8" Dyns, going to have the same issues you now have with these Vette doors, panels, etc....

That is why I am going to do my testing with the 6.5 ID speakers first and Eric at ID said I will have plenty of midbass from them for all but that massive head pounding like my truck will do

But, I have a set of the X69s here just in case I just have to do it, if I do I will make it work but it will not be easy to tame these doors and not add a ton of weight.

---------

The most important part of tuning a sub is getting the phase and crossover slope as well as freq just right, when it is dialed in it is amazing, when not, I cannot stand it!

---------

ID has a new driver for the horns, the top system lists for $649. The lower end one was $299 but the new lower end driver which weighs almost the same as the neo magnet top line model but sounds nearly identical gets the price to $349 which is a killer deal for something that is going to do what these do! I have my set here, will put them in as soon as possible!

Once installed you will not even see them unless you look way under the dash, these will blow away any attempt to get a great sound stage with a 3 way and probably any 2 way system I am quite sure as I have had a very hard time getting a good one in these cars with conventional speakers.

Great sound is easy, having every instrument and the vocalists properly represented on the sound stage has been difficult, to say the least, in these cars, the hardest one I have worked on yet. The horns, it has already been done, will do the job, easily and the install will be simple do to so cost effective, time effective, take up no needed space, hidden, etc......I am going to love these in my car and those that want something over the top will as well

Rick
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 11:58 AM
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The most important part of tuning a sub is getting the phase and crossover slope as well as freq just right, when it is dialed in it is amazing, when not, I cannot stand it!
Man, do I feel you there.
I'd rather have no sub at all than one that doesn't blend right.


Sorry to hijack the thread, but I can't wait to hear about your results with the horns. I'd love to go back to stock a-pillars and hide the horns under the dash. What about stage height? won't high frequencies be blocked/unheard?
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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We need to start a horn specific thread!

When we bury the horns way under the dash and put a flat panel, covered with Ensolite over it, from the mouth of the horn the the start of the dash bottom we do many things.

1) the dash becomes an extension of the horn body which the audio will flow up and high into the cabin for a very high stage height.

2) the deeper they are mounted the deeper the stage depth.

3) the wider they are mounted, the wider the stage width.

The Vettes have a very deep dash with plenty of room to get those horns back very far and wide.

Even in my truck were the horns are barely recessed past the front of the dash the stage height is as high as I would ever want it to be, as high as I have ever had in any install I have done including ones I beat a world champion with

Full size trucks are very very hard to get a proper center stage in, the Vette is supposed to be easy so we get it all, height, width, depth and center imaging with no major effort!

I will still have tweeters in my pillars and more in the doors but those are only for testing, tweaking, tuning to help others that want to go or stay with that type of system, they will not be running with the horns, not needed. Once I have all the tweaking I can get out of those locations I will remove those tweeters and have stock A pillars again.

Ok, I am going to cut and past some of this stuff and start a horn thread, come on in

Rick
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