Audio/Electronics Stereo System Installation Info, Amplifiers, Subwoofers, Radar Detectors, Police Scanners, and CB Radios for the Corvette
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06 complete audio replacement

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Old May 1, 2011 | 08:09 PM
  #1  
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Default 06 complete audio replacement

I will soon be receiving my 06 coupe with non-nav, non-Bose stereo. I am planning a complete removal/replacement of the factory system.

The head unit will probably be a Pioneer FH-P8000B. I don't care about DVD/video, but I do want music streaming from my phone over Bluetooth.

The doors will get a set of 6.5/6.75" components. I found these pre-made adapters: http://www.nakidparts.com/id28.html for mounting the components in the doors.

Subs will probably be dual 10" mounted in this: http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/s...ct_detail&p=73 I'm thinking Infinity Kappa 100.9s.

The main point I would like advice on is whether to even use the 5.25" speakers. It will be cheaper to not buy speakers and not have amp channels to drive them. I may get a cleaner soundstage using only the components in the doors. The only advantage I can think of is the system will be louder overall. Am I missing something here?

For the amp I'm looking at the Infinity Kappa Five if I use the 5.25s, or the Kappa Four if I just go components and subs. The sub box will have an amp mount compartment.

Any pitfalls to watch for? With a complete system, will I need any funky wiring harnesses or adapters?

Also, how many people use a sound deadening material like DynaMat throughout the cabin, and how much difference does is make in reducing road noise?

Last edited by Orange06; May 1, 2011 at 08:15 PM. Reason: ask about sound deadening
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Old May 1, 2011 | 08:20 PM
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i'm no guru, just another enthusiast who has been putting together a new system. 6.5" component speakers in the doors would make a significant improvement in your system. i installed polk audio mm6501's and they sound significantly better than the stock speakers. i am also using the nakidparts adapters, but i had to enlarge the hole for the tweeters to two inches to fit the flush mount tweeter pod that comes with those speakers. Rick at Raam Audio also sells baffles, but i cannot comment on how well they work. i did purchase an alumalite panel to cover the big hole in the door along with some aluminum channels and some BXT Raam Matt and Ensolite. stiffening-up, deadening and sealing the doors will improve the sound form your front speakers. give Rick at Raam Audio a call, he is very helpful.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 10:10 AM
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Heh, I got the link for the sub box from one of your posts

I'll definitely hit up Raam Audio for sound deadening, maybe their baffles, too. Thanks for the tip.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 01:12 PM
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Congrats on the car and good luck on the audio build, sounds like you know what you're doing. The swap is fairly straight-forward and you shouldn't need to worry about funky adapters/harnesses. A couple of thoughts for you...

You might consider mounting the tweets higher than the factory location in the front. The sound tends to get dampened by your leg on the driver's side and your passenger (if they're there) on the other side. There are a lot of approaches that I've seen in C6s, search the forum and find some pics.

You might also consider a 6x9 in either the front (particularly if you move the tweets up) or the rear to fill out the sound.

The sound deadening is a night/day improvement, definitely go for it since you're doing a full-car build anyways.

Last, post pictures when you're done
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Old May 2, 2011 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kedar
i'm no guru, just another enthusiast who has been putting together a new system. 6.5" component speakers in the doors would make a significant improvement in your system. i installed polk audio mm6501's and they sound significantly better than the stock speakers. i am also using the nakidparts adapters, but i had to enlarge the hole for the tweeters to two inches to fit the flush mount tweeter pod that comes with those speakers. Rick at Raam Audio also sells baffles, but i cannot comment on how well they work. i did purchase an alumalite panel to cover the big hole in the door along with some aluminum channels and some BXT Raam Matt and Ensolite. stiffening-up, deadening and sealing the doors will improve the sound form your front speakers. give Rick at Raam Audio a call, he is very helpful.
I did the same when I installed the tweeters. Then I put a set in the wifes vert, this time I did not enlarge the holes. The back of the tweeter cup is a little smaller and set in the hole just fine. The tweeter sits closer to the door panel grill this way, so the door panel/grill doesn't mask the sound coming out of the tweets as bad. So, I recommend NOT enlarging the tweeter plates to fit the tweeter cups.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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If your car doesn't have onstar get the C2R-GM24 interface adapter (formerly GMCO).
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Old May 2, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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After much more googling than should really be necessary, I found this dual 10" enclosure for the C6: http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Su...ure-clone.html. Saves me over $500 from my previous choice and enables me to come in around my original budget of $2K. Unfortunately, it also rules out my first choice for subs, since the Kappas I was looking at have a top mount depth of 6", and the box only allows 5.5" with spacer rings. I'm now leaning toward the Polk 1040MMs from Crutchfield, but am open to suggestions for dual 10s in the $250-350 range.

I can still get a set of Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s for the doors. I haven't been following car audio lately, but I seem to remember the Perfects being the high end of the Infinity line. Would there be any reason to go for the more current Kappa 60.9cs?

After more browsing on the forums here, I see quite a few people nixing the 5.25s in the midpanel. I think I will go that route, since there is no back seat to fill with sound, and I'm not crazy about having a speaker directly behind my head.

For the amp, I now am thinking about the Boston Acoustics GT-475. The power range is right in line with my requirements, and it can drive a bridged load at 2 ohms to give the subs more power. It's also about $100-150 cheaper than the Kappa Four.

I sent a message to Raam about baffles, filler plates, and sound deadening. I want to minimize road noise, but don't want to blow half my budget on it.

I plan on getting the Pioneer from Crutchfield, and they recommend this adapter: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120GMOS...n-Adapter.html for door chimes, etc. They sell it for $50 with the deck.

I am super pumped about this install. I've wanted a Vette since I was 3 years old, and I've put my own stereo in every vehicle I've ever had. I'm not a car guy as far as digging into the drivetrain, but the car doesn't really feel like it's mine until I've dismantled and reassembled the interior My uncle has a 96 Vette. The first time I saw it I told him, "Let me know if you want a real stereo in there". His response: "It's got Bose" I'm looking forward to showing him my system

Last edited by Orange06; May 2, 2011 at 07:45 PM. Reason: wiring adapter
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Old May 2, 2011 | 08:31 PM
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I have the sub box in stock and ready to ship.

subthump copied our design as I was actually the one to take the car into Atrend and design this box from scratch.

Here is link to order
http://shop.doubledmods.com/C6-Corve...c6coupebox.htm
129.99 plus shipping
can preload with subs as well
your limited on mounting depth as well
I would recommend the Kiker comp cvt 10 inch subs
I can add them 299.99 for box and 2 subs

call me if you like
608 568 3011

You should also really order the c2r-gm24 harness as the MEtra one your looking at is not the best.

the new p8300bt is available as well I have it for 279.99

Last edited by Double D Mods; May 2, 2011 at 08:35 PM.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 12:26 AM
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Damn - already ordered the sub box. I will get that c2r-gm24. The reviews for the one Crutchfield carries don't look that great.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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Parts are finalized and about half are delivered.Here's what is going into this build:

Pioneer FH-P8000B
C2R-GM24 harness to keep chimes
Polk MM6501 components
dual Polk MM1040 subs
Subthump enclosure
Infinity Kappa Five amp
db Link amp wiring kit
Stinger speaker cables for components/subs
Stinger patch cables
Door and rear deck sound insulation from RAAM Audio
Speaker baffles, door filler plates, and aluminum channels from RAAM Audio

After lots of shopping around I've come to a total right around $1650.

I decided to hedge my bet on skipping the 5.25s with the 5 channel Kappa amp. I'll bridge the stereo channels to run the Polk components, and the power will match nicely with the handling capabilities of the speakers. The MM6501s have a sensitivity of 94 dB, so I expect them to be plenty loud. If I decide to add 5.25s down the road, I can pick up a set of MM5251s and un-bridge the amp to run all 4 channels. The mono sub channel on the amp is also well matched to run the MM1040s in series at 2 Ohm. The MM1040s are also a good match for the available mounting depth in the sub box. I plan to mount the amp on the box between the subs. Looks like a tight fit, but it should work.

With the cargo cover in place, the only visible component will be the head unit. I'll try to remember to take pics, but it tends to slip my mind when I'm in the midst of a project
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Old May 11, 2011 | 03:08 AM
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For the H/U mounting kit, make sure you get the new one by Metra, designed specifically for the vettes. The kit that often is sold is a generic GM kit, but the texture of the trim ring doesn't quite match. The new one is a really close match.
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 10:17 AM
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Any updates on this? extremely interested
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