Where to point tweeters?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
Where to point tweeters?
Where is the best place to point tweeters mounted in the stock C6 locations?
I have read that the stock C6 location for tweeters is a bad location. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or found a solution.
I have read conflicting reports on where the tweeters should be pointed. Some say toward the windshield - not really possibly in the stock location. Some say toward the opposite side door window. Some say toward the seat headrests. Some say they should be fireing directly towards each other.
I am committed to the stock locations so I have to work within that limitation.
I am getting very harsh sound from Infinity KAPPA PERFECT 6.1's mounted in the stock holes. Because I located the crossovers (-4db, 0db, +5db possible settings) inside the doors, and because the door panels are a pain in the *** to take on and off, and because I can't really test the sound without completely re-installing the panels, experimenting with this is difficult, time consuming, and frustrating. Any suggestions? I have tried -4db and it sounded like the band was in the back of the car. At 0db the band is in front, but it is very harsh sounding. I have the tweeters point directly toward the listeners, as much as possible in the stock locations.
I have read that the stock C6 location for tweeters is a bad location. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or found a solution.
I have read conflicting reports on where the tweeters should be pointed. Some say toward the windshield - not really possibly in the stock location. Some say toward the opposite side door window. Some say toward the seat headrests. Some say they should be fireing directly towards each other.
I am committed to the stock locations so I have to work within that limitation.
I am getting very harsh sound from Infinity KAPPA PERFECT 6.1's mounted in the stock holes. Because I located the crossovers (-4db, 0db, +5db possible settings) inside the doors, and because the door panels are a pain in the *** to take on and off, and because I can't really test the sound without completely re-installing the panels, experimenting with this is difficult, time consuming, and frustrating. Any suggestions? I have tried -4db and it sounded like the band was in the back of the car. At 0db the band is in front, but it is very harsh sounding. I have the tweeters point directly toward the listeners, as much as possible in the stock locations.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
Infinities have a rep for being harsh with the highs 
I'd definitely set them at -4 and use the EQ to adjust to your taste.
Try pointing them directly across towards each other (or just install them "flat" on the adapter plate).
I'd definitely set them at -4 and use the EQ to adjust to your taste.
Try pointing them directly across towards each other (or just install them "flat" on the adapter plate).
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 51,504
Likes: 6
From: Sacramento CA
I'd mount the infiniti kappa perfects at the bottom of a garbage can. 
That said, aim them at each other (alternatively) slightly away from you. But be careful not to shoot them at the windshield.
When it comes to tweeters, it really just depends on the tweeter.
That said, aim them at each other (alternatively) slightly away from you. But be careful not to shoot them at the windshield.
When it comes to tweeters, it really just depends on the tweeter.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 720
Likes: 2
From: Walnut Creek CA
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
I took the door panels apart for the umpteenth time today and mounted the tweeters flat in the adapter so that they are facing each other, no fancy angles. Set the crossover to -4. It is bearable now. I have the fader tilted slightly toward the front and the treble rolled off one notch. I don't have an EQ. Using the OEM HU. So stuck with whatever I can get out of the treble control. If I roll it off too much it effects the midtones. I still think this can sound better, considering how much i've spent.
Infinity is getting trashed here. I am not gung ho about any particular brand. I am open to suggested alternatives. I can sell the Inifinities. I started out with JL Audio TR650-CSi. However, I didn't think they were a good match for the Arc Audio 125.4. I couldn't get any distortion free volume out of them. In short, IMO they blew dog. So I replaced them with these Infinities. Still not satisfied. To be honest, I think the JL AUDIO TR 525-CXi that I have mounted in the rear panels sound better than the anything i've had in the doors so far.
Infinity is getting trashed here. I am not gung ho about any particular brand. I am open to suggested alternatives. I can sell the Inifinities. I started out with JL Audio TR650-CSi. However, I didn't think they were a good match for the Arc Audio 125.4. I couldn't get any distortion free volume out of them. In short, IMO they blew dog. So I replaced them with these Infinities. Still not satisfied. To be honest, I think the JL AUDIO TR 525-CXi that I have mounted in the rear panels sound better than the anything i've had in the doors so far.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 720
Likes: 2
From: Walnut Creek CA
I think I've found your problem - You're running good speakers on a crap head-unit (the factory one).
I recently switched from running good speakers (JL Audio C5-650s) on the stock head-unit. The sound quality was "ok", but it went to crap over a certain volume level.
I swapped the factory head-unit for a Kenwood KIV-701 and now I get full, crystal clear sound, through the entire volume spectrum.
Your factory head-unit doesn't have pre-outs and will only send about a 1v signal to the amps (rather than the 4v-6v that an aftermarket head-unit will). The result of this is that you don't have a good signal from the audio source to the amplification - if you fix this, you won't have to pull the door panels any more
I recently switched from running good speakers (JL Audio C5-650s) on the stock head-unit. The sound quality was "ok", but it went to crap over a certain volume level.
I swapped the factory head-unit for a Kenwood KIV-701 and now I get full, crystal clear sound, through the entire volume spectrum.
Your factory head-unit doesn't have pre-outs and will only send about a 1v signal to the amps (rather than the 4v-6v that an aftermarket head-unit will). The result of this is that you don't have a good signal from the audio source to the amplification - if you fix this, you won't have to pull the door panels any more
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,394
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area CA
As usual, what Kale said
I think the source could definitely be a large part of the problem. You could go the JBL MS-8 route, or the JL cleansweep in line between the HU and the amps to "clean up" the factory signal (IE get rid of the BS Blose puts out)
Infinity is very hit and miss with their tweets, but more often than not they miss
I have owned a pair that I really liked, from about 20 years ago heh.
It can get better
Fej
I think the source could definitely be a large part of the problem. You could go the JBL MS-8 route, or the JL cleansweep in line between the HU and the amps to "clean up" the factory signal (IE get rid of the BS Blose puts out)
Infinity is very hit and miss with their tweets, but more often than not they miss
I have owned a pair that I really liked, from about 20 years ago heh.It can get better
Fej
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Frisco TX
Another option is to do what I did. I bought a new set of apillars on ebay and surface mounted some tweeters. I aimed each one towards the center of the car and it sounds great. I'm using focal speakers, but in that location, you could probably make any tweeter sound good with the right eq. I'll have to 2nd the motion to scrap the head unit. Factory head units are garbage. The worst sound I ever had was the factory head unit in my Challenger wired up to an arc audio amp. Good Luck.
