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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 01:06 AM
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i recently purchased a used alpine iva-d901 from a friend who upgraded. wired up the power, ground and acc wire to test it out before going any further. i wired the power (yellow wire) and ground into the pac interface and ran the acc wire into fuse 22 since my 2004 doesnt have the spare wires in the foot well. didnt turn on. should i be doing something different? if so i figure i can splice into the brown ignition wire for acc and ground out on the bolts to the right of the ignition but where should i route the power wire?
also i purchased the pac TR7 to play video without engaging the parking brake. do i need to ground that unit as well? instructions state to wire just the power, brake, and parking brake wire. thanks in advance for any help.
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 02:14 AM
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after taking another look im beginning to think my inline fuse to the brain is not working. i keep blowing the fuse to the monitor but not the brain. have power coming from fuse #22 but not going threw the inline fuse to the brain. should i buy a new harness with the new inline fuse built in or just cut and replace the inline fuse with a generic option from the auto parts store? and why does the 10amp fuse keep blowing on the monitor?
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CeeRow
i recently purchased a used alpine...
Originally Posted by CeeRow
why does the 10amp fuse keep blowing on the monitor?
Coincidence?

Just to check out functionality of the HU, connect a constant power source to both the yellow and red HU wires. I sometimes pop the hood and use jumper cable type connectors on the battery, then use the other end on the radio.
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by markcz
Coincidence?

Just to check out functionality of the HU, connect a constant power source to both the yellow and red HU wires. I sometimes pop the hood and use jumper cable type connectors on the battery, then use the other end on the radio.
Very good advice. Many aftermarket head units, especially if you have a separate monitor, an HD receiver, etc, draw a good deal more current vs oem, even if you use external amplifiers. The best way to power them is with a wire straight to the battery (via an inline fuse close the battery) for the main switched power source. The constant power wire is just to maintain the settings and clock, so the wire off the harness is fine.

Use a relay between the head unit and the battery and the switched wire from the harness to control the relay. 12AWG wire is more than sufficient for this purpose.
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