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I'm designing the system for my C6 and I'm looking for a capacitor
in the 1.5-2 farad range. I made the mistake of just buying some random one off ebay for my last system.
The charging system will have:
1) Big-3 upgrade with Knukonceptz KOL4 wire
2) Ohio Generator 200-250 amp High Output alternator
3) Optima Yellow top
The reason for the cap here is to stabilize voltage since the deep cycle battery takes so long to discharge power when needed.
I'm designing the system for my C6 and I'm looking for a capacitor
in the 1.5-2 farad range. I made the mistake of just buying some random one off ebay for my last system.
The charging system will have:
1) Big-3 upgrade with Knukonceptz KOL4 wire
2) Ohio Generator 200-250 amp High Output alternator
3) Optima Yellow top
The reason for the cap here is to stabilize voltage since the deep cycle battery takes so long to discharge power when needed.
Anyone recommend a good brand/model of cap?
i have a brand new XIOS cap i think its either 1.5-2 farad 100 bucks + shipping.
I think it has been shown that .5-2 farads is almost worthless. Pretty sure you have to go 5 or more to really see any sort of benefit.
That being said, I have run and installed 1500w RMS systems without them and never even had the lights dim. Proper gauge wire and good grounds are your friend.
The capacitor is just a band-aid covering a wiring problem. Usually an improper power/ground issue. Find out the culprit and you WONT need a capacitor
Normally I would agree, but the planned setup would use more than adequate wiring, an aftermarket high-output alternator and an optima yellow top battery.
The yellow top battery discharges slower than traditional starting batteries which means large amounts of power would not be available on instantaneous demand. The capacitor's fast discharge rate supplements the power requirements of the sound system when needed using the rather steady supply of power from the battery to recharge.
Think of how a "super soaker" works. Without a cap, you're pumping and holding down the trigger. If you charge the gun first and then pull the trigger, you get a LOT more power and range, but then have to recharge after.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but, the Optima battery is NO better than your AC Delco factory. Which surprisingly is good for an OEM product. I understand what your trying to do and I have a better solution for you.
This will help the DRAW your talking about. Capaitors STORE power ONLY. Think of it as a tank being filled with water. As long as your pump (alternator) keeps pumping (charging) then the tank will always stay full. The bigger the tank (capacitor) the more water there is to supply your power output.
No matter what, the tank (capacitor) will empty when there is no more flow. Now adding a seperate battery (MUCH bigger tank) will solve your problem. Adding the isolater/combiner is the BEST way to go. To see what I'm talking about read the website info in the link. Also, check your local area for sound competitions and you will see the top audio installs DON'T have capacitors.
I hope this wasn't TOO much info at one time. Best of luck with your install.
Bing the owner does every type of car imaginable. Just check out his site; especially the Corvettes. His systems are a liitle over the top for me but, they are amazing installs. Also, Ask him for his direct links to the http://www.diymobileaudio.com/ website he regularly posts his complete installs. You willl see that NONE of his installs even need a secondary battery or even capacitors. Its all in proper wiring and matching quality components that work well together.
Take a peek at any REAL car audio competitor's setup. Guess what you'll not find installed.
(we tend to laugh at people when we see setups with caps.)
This is not a competition system, merely one for daily driving. I don't plan to have extra rows of batteries or anything like that. Just an upgraded alternator, big-3 charging setup and a yellow top battery.
I think I'm going to go with an Orion 5-farad hybrid cap. It not only has multiple inputs/outputs (eliminating the need for external distribution blocks) but also a cool volt meter)
But if your insistant on going this route, I wish you the best.
And if you don't mind could you post pics of your install on the DIYMA website? There are very few of us corvette owners showing pics of our audio projects.
But if your insistant on going this route, I wish you the best.
And if you don't mind could you post pics of your install on the DIYMA website? There are very few of us corvette owners showing pics of our audio projects.
Hey Radio, glad you got your c6. Do you plan on doing the same amount of electrical goodness you did on the last car? Personally I have opted never to pay a premium for a yellow top again because it only lasted 2 years before it died. This was in a different vehicle, but I ran a jl 1000/1 and jl 4/500 with a 3 farad cap and it still ran out of power and shut down with 0 gauge wiring so i understand your concern. In the vette I am only running a pdx 2.150 and pdx 1.600 without a cap, on a yellow duralast which has outlasted my yellow top optima Thats why i ask how much power you plan on running.
Well, I ended up selling the C6. It just wasn't in the cards and i wasn't happy with how much of my budget it took to keep it. I've since purchased an 02 which will allow me to use much of my original system (fiberglass 2-way speaker panels in the doors etc).
I plan to be running a JL500/1 for the sub and two Alpine MRP F300 amps for the full range.
I plan to do the entire car right the first time instead of endless upgrading. The head unit and capacitor will be the only new hardware. I will be re-building the amp rack to simulate the look of ABS instead of carpet and will have a double DIN head unit instead of the flip out screen.