Well, it's me again

Got another couple of questions concerning wiring. Again this is for a 2011 GS with non-Bose and no-Nav.

I plan on using the OEM head unit and installing a 5- channel single amp behind the passenger seat.

1. In 2-channel home audio systems, many people have made there own RCA audio interconnects useing Beldon 89259 coaxial cable and male RCA plugs on each end. Can these DIY interconnects be used on our car audio systems between the head unit (ADD-GM24 wire connector ends) and the amp?

2. If not, I was looking at some store bought RCA interconnects, and they come in either 5 foot or 10 foot lenghts. I am thinking that 5 foot cable might be just a little too short, but 10 foot cables are going to be really too long (lots of extra cable to stash someplace). What do you recommend?

3. I have done a search, but can't find a photo of exactly where to run the interconnects between the head unit and the amp mounted behind the pass. rear seat. ... Anyone know of a photo showing the wire routeing? I am thinking it should pass right down through the center console from the radio.

4. I guess the power cable that will attach to the battery should also pass through the center console too?

5. And last ... Any photos of where the speaker wires should route if using aftermarket door, rear and a sub speaker mounted back in the cubby? (I find photos of the aftermarket speakers installed, but not showing where the speaker wire are routed).

Again, thank's for any and all replies!

Ron,

 

Any RCA cables will be fine. My favorites are the $5 ones at Radio Shack.

Run RCA's up the middle and power wires along door sill to prevent any possible noise in RCA's.

Speaker wires can be routed anywhere.

 

Here's a GREAT full & total install link posted here <CLICK HERE> that will answer many-many questions ...

 

Can the RCA's and power both run through the center console if plastic conduit is used?

 

You should not run RCA cables anywhere near a power wire or else you run a very serious risk of introducing noise into the system.

Plastic conduit? Maybe you are thinking of a wire loom? The answer is still no... keep power away from the RCA's.

 

1) Yes, you can make your own RCA cables. Many people on DIYMA.com build their own RCA cables.

2) I use Stinger HPM series wires from Darvex. 5 feet will definitely be too short. You also have to remember that the wire will snake along all of the interior's contours. Try measuring with some string.

3) I am not aware of any photos with this exact wiring. You probably should run the wire on the passenger side of the center console and not literally through the center of the console. When you remove the console you will see that you are able to stuff wire down the side of the console. You will likely have to unscrew the rear-most portion of the console to access the carpeting behind the rear seat.

4) As answered above, no. Run the power and the ground along the side near the door sill.

5) Here is a pic of my sub speaker wire routed over the passenger side cubby.



You will end up running your door speaker wire forward and up into the dash and then over to each side (not tough) and your rear speakers and sub will have wire routed back.

When you tackle this project you will have a serious amount of your interior removed, the routing will become painfully obvious. Just keep your RCA wires away from power wire.

 

Again, thank's everyone for the info.

 

While I'm not usually one who buys into all of the hype around high end interconnects and speaker wires, one thing that most high end car audio RCA have in common is some degree of shielding which isn't present in standard home audio RCAs. "Triple shielded", "grounded shielding", etc.

I've never been curious enough to experiment, so I've always used RCAs designed for car use. Since it's accepted that RCAs should be separated from the power cable to reduce te possibility of induced noise, I'm wondering why anyone would assume unshielded cabling would work as well as cabling designed to reduce noise? Even though you may run the amp power cable on opposite sides of the car, there are a lot of other (unshielded) wires carrying 12v and lots of electronic components running thru out the dash and center console area.

 

I have run RCA's very close to power before and never heard any bad noise, hum, or anything. Not to say it's ok, just never had any issues.

 

I took the plastic door sill off and tucked the speaker and RCA cables down under the carpet next to the driver seat and power wires on the passenger side. A lot easier than taking the center console out.

 

if your going to have noise and alt whine issues its gonna be in a c6 with a stock headunit let me tell you that

 

Greg, tell me!

 

He's definitely right about that. I had a lot of noise even with the engine not running. GLI eliminated it totally. Grounding negative RCA to the HU will take care of it too.

 

EVRose

Can you tell me which GLI you used.

I was looking at these on the internet and noticed that they normally have just 1 set of red and a black RCA plugs on input and on the output of the GLI.




But we have 2 sets of red and black RCA plugs coming out of the ADD-GM24 connector.



Would we need to buy 2 of these GLI units?

Thank's

.

 

I got two of THESE. One for each set of RCA's. Installed at the amp end, not behind the HU. You just plug the RCA patch cable into the input end and the output of the GLI plugs into the amp.

 

Thank's EV

 

Good post, I orderer two from them today! Thanks!

 

I am about to do my "Freak-Install" and will be using this shielded loom, to help reduce any chance of noise (sepecially when all the wires come together at the line driver, amps and DQXS. It's cheap and from that P-Express place ...

 

I always use THESE

 

you may be fine without them it all depends on the amp