C4 System install; One 12", two amps details and pics...
11-06-2011, 01:14 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
C4 System install; One 12", two amps details and pics...
I don't know that I broke any new ground here, or discovered anything new....however, when I did a few searches for C4 system installs, I didn't find what I was looking for. Specifically,
*getting an amp power wire into the car w/o drilling anywhere
*Installing a 12" sub in the storage tub. The FAQ talks about installing an 8 and maybe a 10...but no info on a 12
So here we go. I started by picking up power off the solenoid right behind the battery, then running the power wire to the rear fender area, through the rocker panel;
With the drivers seat and carpet pulled back, you can see plugs in the floor. The one that I'm pointing at was the one I was going for, for my entry point;
After getting the power wire run, I covered it in split loom, then installed a rubber grommet to protect the wire from the hole...the put in a dab of RTV to seal any gaps.
Here is what it looks like, under the car...
*getting an amp power wire into the car w/o drilling anywhere
*Installing a 12" sub in the storage tub. The FAQ talks about installing an 8 and maybe a 10...but no info on a 12
So here we go. I started by picking up power off the solenoid right behind the battery, then running the power wire to the rear fender area, through the rocker panel;
With the drivers seat and carpet pulled back, you can see plugs in the floor. The one that I'm pointing at was the one I was going for, for my entry point;
After getting the power wire run, I covered it in split loom, then installed a rubber grommet to protect the wire from the hole...the put in a dab of RTV to seal any gaps.
Here is what it looks like, under the car...
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 11-06-2011 at 02:06 AM.
11-06-2011, 01:52 AM
#2
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Thread Starter
To install the amps, I REALLY wanted them to be "invisible"...I wanted the entire system to be invisible. I have had great success with that goal in other cars (F-bodies)...but the 'Vette is just too darn small. I tried:
*Under the seats: Trimming the seat bottoms, carpet and sound deadening insulation, I could have fit them in...but wouldn't have been able to move the seat. (!)
*In the storage bins: No usable room in the drivers side due to ABS and not enough room (for my amps) in the passengers side either.
*Behind the seats: Yeah, amps fit, but you can't move the seats all teh way back then.
In short, I decided that I wasn't going to be able to hide the amps so if visible, I wanted them to look nice. I also wanted to be able to use my cargo area for cargo...so putting them on the floor was out. I decided the rear wall was the place for them. As with the amp power wire, I didn't want to drill, so I got a piece or wood drilled and installed small hex head cap screws through it in the proper locations to act a studs to mount the amps. I epoxied the hex head cap screws to the board so they wouldn't spin on me, when snugging the nuts down. Then I put lines of RTV (as adhesive) on the peaks of the ribs on the back wall of the tub...then installed the board and braced it to allow the RTV to dry w/o pulling away. I used RTV because it will adhere well enough to do the job, but would scrape off if the car were to go back to stock. If you look close, you'll see the "studs" sticking out of the wood board:
After the RTV dried, I test installed the two amps to assure that everything fit, looked decent and gave me the space I needed for wiring:
Then I removed the amps, installed the sound deadening material, and re-installed the amps, this time, for good.
Next was the wiring for the amps. Even though you won't be able to see any of it...I still wanted it to look nice:
I had origianlly intended on installing the amps over the factory carpet too, as I didn't want to "molest" the carpet either...but I abandoned that idea for three reasons:
1. The carpet+sound deadening material added up to over 1.5", pushing the amps that additional 1.5" out into the cargo area. I didn't like that.
2. The original carpet's backing was already cracking. Carpet LOOKS fine, but it's 1/2 junk anyway...so it wasn't going to kill me to cut it.
3. I really didn't want to see wiring. Cutting the carpet and laying ot over the amps would allow me to conceal the wiring nicely...and it gave a nice, finished look...
Next was the sub. Again, I want an "invisible" install here. I didn't want to be able to see it, so boxes were OUT. I wanted:
1. it in the storage hole, and
2. I wanted the OEM storage lid to be intact.
The latter proved to be too much to ask (with my install skills and the 12" sub). I started off with a nice pice of wood, some careful measuring, then cut a hole in it, installed the sub in it, and added weather stripping to help it seal agains the flange around the storage bin:
I installed the assembly and used the screw holes toward the front side of the bin, to secure the board/woofer assy. Still...no drilling!
Still wanting to try to maintain a functional lid, I cut the "floor" of the lids assembly to fit around the 12" sub:
Unfortunately, since the lid is recessed, it hits the sub before it's fully closed. The lid had to go. I pulled the rod that is the hinge pivot and removed the lid. I installed a mesh grille over the sub to protect it, then disassembled the lid latch. I pulled the tin caps off the latch, and glued them to the latch housing. This gave me clearance under the latch housing (no latch protruding down to hit the woofer), and still maintains a box-stock appearance. I have over 1000 Watts RMS and a 12" sub in the rear of the car and what you can see of it looks classy, IMO. The cargo area is still totally functional, and I won't worry about laying items on the cargo floor. Speakers are
Rear: JBL 2-way 6x9's and the 12" Pioneer sub.
Front: JBL 2-way 4x6's
Front: Infinity Reference 2-way 5-1/4" ALL in the stock front location
HU: Mid 90's Alpine 7534s (my favorite) with a CHM620 changer under the driver's seat. Here is how the final product looks in the rear of the car...
*Under the seats: Trimming the seat bottoms, carpet and sound deadening insulation, I could have fit them in...but wouldn't have been able to move the seat. (!)
*In the storage bins: No usable room in the drivers side due to ABS and not enough room (for my amps) in the passengers side either.
*Behind the seats: Yeah, amps fit, but you can't move the seats all teh way back then.
In short, I decided that I wasn't going to be able to hide the amps so if visible, I wanted them to look nice. I also wanted to be able to use my cargo area for cargo...so putting them on the floor was out. I decided the rear wall was the place for them. As with the amp power wire, I didn't want to drill, so I got a piece or wood drilled and installed small hex head cap screws through it in the proper locations to act a studs to mount the amps. I epoxied the hex head cap screws to the board so they wouldn't spin on me, when snugging the nuts down. Then I put lines of RTV (as adhesive) on the peaks of the ribs on the back wall of the tub...then installed the board and braced it to allow the RTV to dry w/o pulling away. I used RTV because it will adhere well enough to do the job, but would scrape off if the car were to go back to stock. If you look close, you'll see the "studs" sticking out of the wood board:
After the RTV dried, I test installed the two amps to assure that everything fit, looked decent and gave me the space I needed for wiring:
Then I removed the amps, installed the sound deadening material, and re-installed the amps, this time, for good.
Next was the wiring for the amps. Even though you won't be able to see any of it...I still wanted it to look nice:
I had origianlly intended on installing the amps over the factory carpet too, as I didn't want to "molest" the carpet either...but I abandoned that idea for three reasons:
1. The carpet+sound deadening material added up to over 1.5", pushing the amps that additional 1.5" out into the cargo area. I didn't like that.
2. The original carpet's backing was already cracking. Carpet LOOKS fine, but it's 1/2 junk anyway...so it wasn't going to kill me to cut it.
3. I really didn't want to see wiring. Cutting the carpet and laying ot over the amps would allow me to conceal the wiring nicely...and it gave a nice, finished look...
Next was the sub. Again, I want an "invisible" install here. I didn't want to be able to see it, so boxes were OUT. I wanted:
1. it in the storage hole, and
2. I wanted the OEM storage lid to be intact.
The latter proved to be too much to ask (with my install skills and the 12" sub). I started off with a nice pice of wood, some careful measuring, then cut a hole in it, installed the sub in it, and added weather stripping to help it seal agains the flange around the storage bin:
I installed the assembly and used the screw holes toward the front side of the bin, to secure the board/woofer assy. Still...no drilling!
Still wanting to try to maintain a functional lid, I cut the "floor" of the lids assembly to fit around the 12" sub:
Unfortunately, since the lid is recessed, it hits the sub before it's fully closed. The lid had to go. I pulled the rod that is the hinge pivot and removed the lid. I installed a mesh grille over the sub to protect it, then disassembled the lid latch. I pulled the tin caps off the latch, and glued them to the latch housing. This gave me clearance under the latch housing (no latch protruding down to hit the woofer), and still maintains a box-stock appearance. I have over 1000 Watts RMS and a 12" sub in the rear of the car and what you can see of it looks classy, IMO. The cargo area is still totally functional, and I won't worry about laying items on the cargo floor. Speakers are
Rear: JBL 2-way 6x9's and the 12" Pioneer sub.
Front: JBL 2-way 4x6's
Front: Infinity Reference 2-way 5-1/4" ALL in the stock front location
HU: Mid 90's Alpine 7534s (my favorite) with a CHM620 changer under the driver's seat. Here is how the final product looks in the rear of the car...
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 11-06-2011 at 02:08 AM.
11-06-2011, 08:33 PM
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Nice write-up
The subwoofer mounting board looks really thin. How thick is it? Does she rattle?
The subwoofer mounting board looks really thin. How thick is it? Does she rattle?
11-06-2011, 08:50 PM
#6
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Thread Starter
It is thin; 1/4" because I was trying to keep that low, invisible profile. No rattles though. Except for the license plate! 
11-09-2011, 09:30 PM
#8
Team Owner
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Thread Starter
Which part? The amp wire routing would work. Amp mounting technique might work but I am not familiar with the inside of the 'vert.
11-10-2011, 01:15 PM
#9
The wiring in a vert is the same..the "cargo" area is not by a long shot..no room back there for much..I have 2 8inch subs in the rear speaker location and 1 4 channell amp driving all the speakers, it just fits on the floor behind the seats with just enough room for a cd changer...had to mod up the original Bose front pods to fit the 6 1's speakers..that took a while.
