5 pharad capacitor.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 14,136
Likes: 2,983
From: Iowa
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
a cap will charge in seconds even through a resistor. hooking straight to battery without capacitor will cause a huge arc and can be dangerous.
use the resistor for safety reasons
if you really want one I'll give you my Alumapro 5F cap
Sorry forum members were calling you a noob
Your best bet, though not cheap, is a SINGLE hi-output alternator.
I am looking at 200amp alternators, but that alone is not enough.
You mention 0-gauge to the amps, did you use 0-gauge to do the "big 3" also? That's a must.
I fully understand that two batteries might be better
Capicators charge and discharge in milliseconds. They can help prevent the flickering lights. In my Vette I run 0-gauge everywhere and have a 15 Farad G.A.P cap, I still get flickering of lights, I too need a hi-output alt.
In my Expedition, 0-gauge everwhere and a 40 Farad cap, still get flickering lights, I need a high-output alt there too. That one will get done soon as the flickering is very noticable.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
@johnnyko12 So what is the solution.
Yes, I want your cap. IM me what you want for it.
So.. what did you do to your Durango?
I had an Ohio Generator alt under the hood and a Kinetik 2400 battery, in the back by the amps I had another 4 Kinetik 2400 batts
I fully understand that two alternators would be better.
I dont want to do that to my Corvette.
Yuk, I agree. instead of getting a 2nd alternator you can get a replacement for the one you have right now that puts out twice the power in the same space.<--best bet
I fully understand that two batteries might be better.
I dont want to do that to my corvette. Batteries will also drain.
Totally, unless you're planning on more amps in the future you're not at the power level where you would need extra. Instead I would say one badass deep cell for your starting battery.
The only proper solution is to make the car produce more power then I am using.
To my knowledge I can run 2 alternators, Add a battery charger and plug the car in,
add a solar battery charger. I don't like any of those options.
I understand that a cap will eventually run out of power, so will your battery.
Solution, don't run the stereo that loud for that long of a time. How long do you
really play your radio at full volume. If you have a cap or batteries that will last
longer then you play the stereo you are in good shape.
The cap will not have a power reserve anywhere near a battery. When your car turns off and the alt is off your stereo can still play for a pretty long time on just battery power. Cut the battery power off before the capacitor and you'll see how much power they hold, it's gonna be almost an instant shutdown.
If the alternator produces enough power to charge your system at normal listening volume,
but not at peak, then a cap is a perfect solution. You only need the cap for those 5 minutes
that you are showing off. More batteries can also work, but they are heavy.
I have been told several times that caps don't work...
No one has given me another solution.
Yes, I want your cap. IM me what you want for it.
So.. what did you do to your Durango?
I had an Ohio Generator alt under the hood and a Kinetik 2400 battery, in the back by the amps I had another 4 Kinetik 2400 batts
I fully understand that two alternators would be better.
I dont want to do that to my Corvette.
Yuk, I agree. instead of getting a 2nd alternator you can get a replacement for the one you have right now that puts out twice the power in the same space.<--best bet
I fully understand that two batteries might be better.
I dont want to do that to my corvette. Batteries will also drain.
Totally, unless you're planning on more amps in the future you're not at the power level where you would need extra. Instead I would say one badass deep cell for your starting battery.
The only proper solution is to make the car produce more power then I am using.
To my knowledge I can run 2 alternators, Add a battery charger and plug the car in,
add a solar battery charger. I don't like any of those options.
I understand that a cap will eventually run out of power, so will your battery.
Solution, don't run the stereo that loud for that long of a time. How long do you
really play your radio at full volume. If you have a cap or batteries that will last
longer then you play the stereo you are in good shape.
The cap will not have a power reserve anywhere near a battery. When your car turns off and the alt is off your stereo can still play for a pretty long time on just battery power. Cut the battery power off before the capacitor and you'll see how much power they hold, it's gonna be almost an instant shutdown.
If the alternator produces enough power to charge your system at normal listening volume,
but not at peak, then a cap is a perfect solution. You only need the cap for those 5 minutes
that you are showing off. More batteries can also work, but they are heavy.
I have been told several times that caps don't work...
No one has given me another solution.
-Do your big 3 upgrade
-Toss in a badass deep cell under the hood
-Find someone near you who can rebuild your stock alt for some more juice or just get a new alternator all together.
Once some of this happens, you're ready for a capcitor to actually do something, if you think you still want one.
Caps are like blow off valves. Is there a place for them? Yes. If you're in a highly modded turbo beast it could actually do something. If you toss it on your stock turbo car it's more than likely just a noise maker.
If you have the juice in your electrical system a capacitor can help and do something, if you're running stock electrical its just something shiny sitting there.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 315
Likes: 1
@knewblewkorvette
I don't mind being called a noob, it was that they couldn't explain why they called me that.
I actually felt like a noob for not knowing you should charge a cap.
I'm sure I will be called a noob for asking this and that is fine, Define "Big 3"
I already purchased a 200 amp alternator. Just waiting for it to get here.
I am still running a cap. No one has proved to me they are not better for the system.
I said I wanted his cap first.
I don't mind being called a noob, it was that they couldn't explain why they called me that.
I actually felt like a noob for not knowing you should charge a cap.
I'm sure I will be called a noob for asking this and that is fine, Define "Big 3"
I already purchased a 200 amp alternator. Just waiting for it to get here.
I am still running a cap. No one has proved to me they are not better for the system.
I said I wanted his cap first.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 315
Likes: 1
So I googled the big 3.
Never, heard that term. I usually build my own engines and just automatically replace those wires.
The amps are grounded directly to the battery, so that eliminates the need to replace that ground.
Replace the block ground? ok I guess.
Amp wire on the Alternator makes since. I usually make a better wire when I install the engine.
I will replace with a bigger gauge when I add the better Alternator.
Never, heard that term. I usually build my own engines and just automatically replace those wires.
The amps are grounded directly to the battery, so that eliminates the need to replace that ground.
Replace the block ground? ok I guess.
Amp wire on the Alternator makes since. I usually make a better wire when I install the engine.
I will replace with a bigger gauge when I add the better Alternator.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 6
From: NCCO Oklahoma
Capacitors in DC systems serve the same purpose as a battery: it stores electrons and releases them when a load is applied to the circuit. Where batteries and caps differ is their storage medium and how quickly they charge/discharge. Relatively speaking, capacitors charge and discharge much faster than a battery can, and are often used to remove ripple from an AC power source that has been rectified into DC.
Can anyone here tell me how an "alternator" got it's name?
Answer: Because it produces alternating current. It has multiple poles which are then ran through a full wave bridge rectifier and then sent to the battery. The higher the RPM, the more "pulses" per minute which leads to an overall higher available output.
That being said, as soon as the car is started, the battery goes from being the primary source of DC power to being the backup/storage container. A capacitor does the exact same thing, although charges/discharges much more quickly and helps filter any ripple that may exist on the DC bus.
These guys that say that a cap is a band aid are right to a certain extent. If your DC bus has insufficient power and your amplifier's power supply wasn't designed right, a cap will just mask the problem. Sure, a cap will have some storage capacity for a short duration (miliseconds, not minutes) but during high power high duration transient events, it simply cannot keep up. It then becomes a load on the alternator, just like the amp, headlights, battery, and so on.
That's why you see people upgrading the power source; the alternator. The higher the available output, the better off you are... but ONLY if you have the proper means by which to get that power from the source to the load. That's why people talk about the "Big 3." The larger the wire, the more current capacity and the less voltage drop from source to load.
If you use a wire that is too small, it can actually heat up... which will increase the resistance of the wire and reduce your available voltage at the load, reducing your amplifiers output.
Do capacitors work? Sure... but your money is better spent on wiring and alternator upgrades. Just my $1.05
Mark
Can anyone here tell me how an "alternator" got it's name?
Answer: Because it produces alternating current. It has multiple poles which are then ran through a full wave bridge rectifier and then sent to the battery. The higher the RPM, the more "pulses" per minute which leads to an overall higher available output.
That being said, as soon as the car is started, the battery goes from being the primary source of DC power to being the backup/storage container. A capacitor does the exact same thing, although charges/discharges much more quickly and helps filter any ripple that may exist on the DC bus.
These guys that say that a cap is a band aid are right to a certain extent. If your DC bus has insufficient power and your amplifier's power supply wasn't designed right, a cap will just mask the problem. Sure, a cap will have some storage capacity for a short duration (miliseconds, not minutes) but during high power high duration transient events, it simply cannot keep up. It then becomes a load on the alternator, just like the amp, headlights, battery, and so on.
That's why you see people upgrading the power source; the alternator. The higher the available output, the better off you are... but ONLY if you have the proper means by which to get that power from the source to the load. That's why people talk about the "Big 3." The larger the wire, the more current capacity and the less voltage drop from source to load.
If you use a wire that is too small, it can actually heat up... which will increase the resistance of the wire and reduce your available voltage at the load, reducing your amplifiers output.
Do capacitors work? Sure... but your money is better spent on wiring and alternator upgrades. Just my $1.05
Mark
Last edited by Fasthotrod; Nov 23, 2011 at 03:26 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
The 5 bats weren't in the vette. I like to have a loud car, a fast car, and I never mix the 2! Haha!
Btw I've never seen a thread on caps have this many ppl actually have good info and know what's happening, great input other posters!!
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 315
Likes: 1
It is strange how much attention this thread has gotten.
Thanks for the input. I never felt I didn't need a better alternator.
I was just price shopping. $300 from summit seemed a little high.
I got one from ebay for $120, from a real business and has a warranty.
I will increase the size of the charging wire from the alternator when I add the larger alternator.
I will add an additional ground from the block.
Thanks for the input. I never felt I didn't need a better alternator.
I was just price shopping. $300 from summit seemed a little high.
I got one from ebay for $120, from a real business and has a warranty.
I will increase the size of the charging wire from the alternator when I add the larger alternator.
I will add an additional ground from the block.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,327
Likes: 166
From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
It is strange how much attention this thread has gotten.
Thanks for the input. I never felt I didn't need a better alternator.
I was just price shopping. $300 from summit seemed a little high.
I got one from ebay for $120, from a real business and has a warranty.
I will increase the size of the charging wire from the alternator when I add the larger alternator.
I will add an additional ground from the block.
Thanks for the input. I never felt I didn't need a better alternator.
I was just price shopping. $300 from summit seemed a little high.
I got one from ebay for $120, from a real business and has a warranty.
I will increase the size of the charging wire from the alternator when I add the larger alternator.
I will add an additional ground from the block.
I think the interest is due to lack of detailed cap threads, as well as the breakdown info on them. I posted a Big-3 install thread today <CLICK HERE> so, considering your setup this would really help along with the better alternator, but you should go with 0-gauge instead of 4-gauge wiring. My amp setup will be around 1000 watts, so you are on a whole diff level. But it seems the mega-caps should really help, right?
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Capacitors in DC systems serve the same purpose as a battery: it stores electrons and releases them when a load is applied to the circuit. Where batteries and caps differ is their storage medium and how quickly they charge/discharge. Relatively speaking, capacitors charge and discharge much faster than a battery can, and are often used to remove ripple from an AC power source that has been rectified into DC.
Can anyone here tell me how an "alternator" got it's name?
Answer: Because it produces alternating current. It has multiple poles which are then ran through a full wave bridge rectifier and then sent to the battery. The higher the RPM, the more "pulses" per minute which leads to an overall higher available output.
That being said, as soon as the car is started, the battery goes from being the primary source of DC power to being the backup/storage container. A capacitor does the exact same thing, although charges/discharges much more quickly and helps filter any ripple that may exist on the DC bus.
These guys that say that a cap is a band aid are right to a certain extent. If your DC bus has insufficient power and your amplifier's power supply wasn't designed right, a cap will just mask the problem. Sure, a cap will have some storage capacity for a short duration (miliseconds, not minutes) but during high power high duration transient events, it simply cannot keep up. It then becomes a load on the alternator, just like the amp, headlights, battery, and so on.
That's why you see people upgrading the power source; the alternator. The higher the available output, the better off you are... but ONLY if you have the proper means by which to get that power from the source to the load. That's why people talk about the "Big 3." The larger the wire, the more current capacity and the less voltage drop from source to load.
If you use a wire that is too small, it can actually heat up... which will increase the resistance of the wire and reduce your available voltage at the load, reducing your amplifiers output.
Do capacitors work? Sure... but your money is better spent on wiring and alternator upgrades. Just my $1.05
Mark
Can anyone here tell me how an "alternator" got it's name?
Answer: Because it produces alternating current. It has multiple poles which are then ran through a full wave bridge rectifier and then sent to the battery. The higher the RPM, the more "pulses" per minute which leads to an overall higher available output.
That being said, as soon as the car is started, the battery goes from being the primary source of DC power to being the backup/storage container. A capacitor does the exact same thing, although charges/discharges much more quickly and helps filter any ripple that may exist on the DC bus.
These guys that say that a cap is a band aid are right to a certain extent. If your DC bus has insufficient power and your amplifier's power supply wasn't designed right, a cap will just mask the problem. Sure, a cap will have some storage capacity for a short duration (miliseconds, not minutes) but during high power high duration transient events, it simply cannot keep up. It then becomes a load on the alternator, just like the amp, headlights, battery, and so on.
That's why you see people upgrading the power source; the alternator. The higher the available output, the better off you are... but ONLY if you have the proper means by which to get that power from the source to the load. That's why people talk about the "Big 3." The larger the wire, the more current capacity and the less voltage drop from source to load.
If you use a wire that is too small, it can actually heat up... which will increase the resistance of the wire and reduce your available voltage at the load, reducing your amplifiers output.
Do capacitors work? Sure... but your money is better spent on wiring and alternator upgrades. Just my $1.05
Mark
Boomer Sooner!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 6
From: NCCO Oklahoma
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,327
Likes: 166
From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
We tried a Capacitor Thread a while ago, but it ran out of steam. Take a look, as there is a bit of good information in there.
