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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 09:10 PM
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Default What amp?

One JL Audio 10W3v3-4 10" Single 4 Ohm Subwoofer. What amp should I buy for under $300?
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Lou64
One JL Audio 10W3v3-4 10" Single 4 Ohm Subwoofer. What amp should I buy for under $300?

mini or full size?
what is it going in?
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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This is what I have powering my JL Stealthbox(10w3).
Its not a mini sized amp but believe me, it can power that sub very nicely and do it all day cranked up to 11.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 09:46 PM
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Hmmm...I was thinking something closer to 500W RMS, since that is what the sub can do, but I will take that into consideration.

It is going into my 64 convertible. I am going to build a box to go in there, but haven't decided exactly what yet. I just want a mono block type amp (or 2 channel bridgeable).
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 09:59 PM
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You could put 500w(or even a lttle less) to it but it will shorten its life considerably. Just saying.

click specs for power graph chart.
http://www.jlaudio.com/10w3v3-4-car-...-drivers-92151
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 10:10 PM
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What is the rest of the system?
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 11:39 PM
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I think I've landed on a Sony marine unit in the jack area with wired remote, Kenwood kick panel speakers up front, and a pair of JL 6x9 3 ways in boxes as well.

NYC6, I had not actually gone to JL's website to see what they recommended, but I will definitely take that into consideration. I am one that always has believed in not turning the gain all the way up, so even with a 500 watt amp, I would only probably put it at 75-85% gain. I haven't done car audio stuff in about ten years, but I always got better sound that way with 3 different systems I had.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 11:54 PM
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I know what you're saying about head room and its a valid point. Thought about going larger than the 300w at the time also. I was talked out of it by my installer.

Even at 75-80% you're still looking at 375-425w, which is still pressing the 10w3 somewhat. About 300w is the sweet spot for the driver and the JL amp supplies true power(and then some, from what Ive heard). The 300w drives the 10w very nicely. Dont know how much better it would sound turning up the wick. JMO. Let us know what you go with.

Last edited by NYC6; Jan 27, 2012 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 10:26 PM
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If you want a small inexpensive amp that will perform, check out the Boston Acoustics GT series. The gt275 will put out a real 300 watts at 2 ohms, and they are small! I have this series in my truck and I'm putting 2 new ones in my vette real soon. I'm using a lot more power than the 275, but I have had great luck with these amps. JL and Alpine also have some good ones out there too.

Edit: I just saw that you are at 4 ohms. The GT2125 will get you to 400 watts.

Last edited by thmupr; Jan 28, 2012 at 10:29 PM. Reason: I didn't see the ohm rating..
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 01:36 AM
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Buy a Class D amp for efficiency purposes, and get one with remote bass boost and a built-in crossover (old school ST series Memphis amps work well and are a very good value), or even better add a Phoenix Gold Bass cube to the unit instead of using bass boost.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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I decided (and bought) the following:

Alpine M60UI marine head unit (with WIRED remote since it will be in the jack storage area)
Polk MM691 6x9 3 ways
Alpine PDX-F4 400 watt 4 channel amp (yeah, it was $302 on fleabay, I splurged)
Kenwood front kick panel speakers, specially made for C2's (I think they are 4 1/2")

Decided I would power the 6x9's and bridge the other two channels to power the W3. I'll let you guys know when I get it all hooked up and my "custom" box built for the 6x9's and sub.
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