Need a "Grocery" List
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: El Paso TX
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Summerton SC
Tech Contributor
These were a pair of 6" clear LED strips from AutoZone, as the sub-pods blocked the trunk lights. I just wired to the left trunk light and stuck them on the lip. Really lights up the trunk and you don't see them while at the back.
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Advanced
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Lafayette Louisiana
Ok Guys Here I go!!! Tonight I will do the install with the help of my brother and dad...I will First Modify the harness(Add-GM24) MarkCZ suggested with the RCA plugs... Then pull the HU out. and attach... My stealthbox is passenger side so I will run my Power cable from the grommet under my battery through into the car. I need ideas on amp placement...I was thinking on the "backwall of the hatch" where the taillights are"?? I have read not to drill into the floor because of the gas tank...Alsoso i have seen speaker wires run from the back of the HU through the center console... Anyway thts what I have planned..if you have any last minute suggestions ...PLEASE feel free..Thanks 
...Bobby
...Bobby
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From: El Paso TX
If it were me, I'd install the amp in the driver side cubby, as you mentioned before. Your JX amp is pretty small if I'm remembering correctly, so it should fit. If you go with this option, I would modify the cubby door to let the amp breathe.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Lafayette Louisiana
UPDATE..
I have the speaker in and wire run as well as power wire from battery run. Console Off and ADD-GM24 on my stock bose HU... Note.. I found that a coat hanger punched through the firewall grommet , from the inside pushed out to the engine works great for running the power cable...
Question. I have 2 extra RCA's (the fronts L&R) from the adapter NOT being used.. (Add-GM24). That is normal right? I have the Rear RCA's hooked up and run to my amp.FYI...does that sound right?
I am Mounting my amp (JX 500/1 JL Audio) Behind the Passenger seat. fits nice .. I have short screws that came with the amp I will use to because I was told that I have 1" to 1.5" before I hit the Gas tank.. so the shorter ..the better....I guess as long as I get a good "bite" from all four screws I should be ok....
Anyway I will finish up tomorrow night. and post pics....Any suggestions or anything I am doing wrong... please left me know... OHHHH P.S> the Cigarette Lighter/power plug are a PAIN IN THE ask.......But finally got both of them off when taking off the console.....
Thanks BObby
I have the speaker in and wire run as well as power wire from battery run. Console Off and ADD-GM24 on my stock bose HU... Note.. I found that a coat hanger punched through the firewall grommet , from the inside pushed out to the engine works great for running the power cable...
Question. I have 2 extra RCA's (the fronts L&R) from the adapter NOT being used.. (Add-GM24). That is normal right? I have the Rear RCA's hooked up and run to my amp.FYI...does that sound right?
I am Mounting my amp (JX 500/1 JL Audio) Behind the Passenger seat. fits nice .. I have short screws that came with the amp I will use to because I was told that I have 1" to 1.5" before I hit the Gas tank.. so the shorter ..the better....I guess as long as I get a good "bite" from all four screws I should be ok....
Anyway I will finish up tomorrow night. and post pics....Any suggestions or anything I am doing wrong... please left me know... OHHHH P.S> the Cigarette Lighter/power plug are a PAIN IN THE ask.......But finally got both of them off when taking off the console.....
Thanks BObby
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,295
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From: Chicago Illinois
St. Jude Donor '12
Your amp still needs a remote trigger wire. You can tap wire B3 on the gm-add--24 for power to retain the retained accessory power (rap) or you can tap a fuse that works in the accessory mode (seat heater).
I would not screw into the back wall. Adhere a board to the back wall under the carpet and screw into that.
I would not screw into the back wall. Adhere a board to the back wall under the carpet and screw into that.
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Michael S. Palmer
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From: El Paso TX
ABSOLUTELY. Don't drill holes, even small ones, in your baby. Bad idea. If you don't want to use something permanent, you can use 1/4" hard board (can get it from home depot in 2'x4' boards for about $6), cut a piece for your amp to mount to, then attach it to the back wall using industrial velcro strips (also at home depot). Those strips are awesome, and won't go ANYWHERE. Then, just mount your amp through the carpet to the hobby board (similar to kedar's suggestion above.)
I use that velcro for all kinds of stuff, and it works great. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051
I can't seem to find the webpage for the hard board, but home depot always has it, and it's usually located on the endcaps of the lumber isles.
Last edited by SDB_FTW; Apr 20, 2012 at 01:33 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 83
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From: Lafayette Louisiana
Thanks Guys.. i will do just that.. Go to Home Depot and get the hardboard and Velcro...Great idea I..I was going to use Liquid Nails...Forget THAT!!!
As for the Power to the amp... I will go to AutoZone and get a "fuse tap" for the power and put it in the Heated Seat slot.. Only question is ...i run the "remote cable/blue cable" from my fuse box to the amp and i should be fine... Right?
Thanks for the help
Bobby
As for the Power to the amp... I will go to AutoZone and get a "fuse tap" for the power and put it in the Heated Seat slot.. Only question is ...i run the "remote cable/blue cable" from my fuse box to the amp and i should be fine... Right?
Thanks for the help
Bobby
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
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From: North Augusta, SC
If you use seat fuse the amp will turn off when you shut off engine, not when you open a door. Tapping B3 will leave radio on until you open a door.
Just using rear outputs to amp is fine, chimes are on front channel.
Regardless of which one you use, just run a wire directly to trigger terminal on amp and it will be fine.
Just using rear outputs to amp is fine, chimes are on front channel.
Regardless of which one you use, just run a wire directly to trigger terminal on amp and it will be fine.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Lafayette Louisiana
OK.. so i will switch to Front because i want everything to work like "stock" would.
Also Rather then tapping the B3.. KOMO said in a earlier post "I have it on the wiper fuse circuit and the amp switches on in accessory mode"...With that said could that be an option to tap in to using a Fuse tap in the wiper fuse circuit?
If the above would work.. great but if not i will have to tap into my B3.. ...MarKCZ you mention needing diodes and resistors to tap into a B3...Woo...sounds a little over my head for my extremely low knowledge of basic car audio 101. I found this online to help me understand your drawing..http://www.carstereo.com/help/diodes_101.cfm
But all i see are lines and arrows and small boxes....LOL ..Its like Im starring at one of the "Hidden Picture Posters"...I stare and stare and stare..waiting to see a Dolphin cutting a flip in the sunset...but all i see are lines....LOL
Some people this comes easy to...but i am in no way one of those people!!!
Anyway thanks for the HELp
Also Rather then tapping the B3.. KOMO said in a earlier post "I have it on the wiper fuse circuit and the amp switches on in accessory mode"...With that said could that be an option to tap in to using a Fuse tap in the wiper fuse circuit?
If the above would work.. great but if not i will have to tap into my B3.. ...MarKCZ you mention needing diodes and resistors to tap into a B3...Woo...sounds a little over my head for my extremely low knowledge of basic car audio 101. I found this online to help me understand your drawing..http://www.carstereo.com/help/diodes_101.cfm
But all i see are lines and arrows and small boxes....LOL ..Its like Im starring at one of the "Hidden Picture Posters"...I stare and stare and stare..waiting to see a Dolphin cutting a flip in the sunset...but all i see are lines....LOL
Some people this comes easy to...but i am in no way one of those people!!!
Anyway thanks for the HELp
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
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From: North Augusta, SC
I believe the heated seats fuse is true switched power, the amp would only come on when the engine is running. I don't think anyone would like that.
The wiper fuse is on accessory power. If you tap into that one the amp would come on when you start the car or if you just go into accessory mode. I believe it would turn off when you turn off the car.
If you tap into B3, the amp will come on as soon as you open a door, stay on while car runs, then not turn off until a door is opened. Some people don't like that because their chimes can get REALLY LOUD if the stereo/amp were ata high volume when the car was turned off.
If you tap B3 and add the relay and diodes, that would make the amp not come on until you start the car, and still turn off when a door is opened.
IMO your best option would be to add-a-fuse on the wiper
The wiper fuse is on accessory power. If you tap into that one the amp would come on when you start the car or if you just go into accessory mode. I believe it would turn off when you turn off the car.
If you tap into B3, the amp will come on as soon as you open a door, stay on while car runs, then not turn off until a door is opened. Some people don't like that because their chimes can get REALLY LOUD if the stereo/amp were ata high volume when the car was turned off.
If you tap B3 and add the relay and diodes, that would make the amp not come on until you start the car, and still turn off when a door is opened.
IMO your best option would be to add-a-fuse on the wiper
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Lafayette Louisiana
Ok .. I have everything in and it powers up and all... sounds good TILL....
Problem.....
When I turn up the Volume past "Half way" or crank up the Bass on the HU eq... the Bose speakers begin to crackle/distort and the system will basically turn off... The only thing I am able to hear is a faint very faint sound of music coming from the front speakers... I have to turn the car off, lock it , wait a minute and then turn it back on... and it will work. Basically it has to restart itself.
our Theory is that the soldered connectors i put on the add-gm 24 may be lose and it is causing a arc when I over drive the system. causing it to shut down...( some kind of safety feature..Idk)
OR
That the radio is going to a mono output thus causing signal feedback...Maybe getting some kind of summing unit
and build a blocker to plug in only the left channel....
IDK
Any advice?
Problem.....
When I turn up the Volume past "Half way" or crank up the Bass on the HU eq... the Bose speakers begin to crackle/distort and the system will basically turn off... The only thing I am able to hear is a faint very faint sound of music coming from the front speakers... I have to turn the car off, lock it , wait a minute and then turn it back on... and it will work. Basically it has to restart itself.
our Theory is that the soldered connectors i put on the add-gm 24 may be lose and it is causing a arc when I over drive the system. causing it to shut down...( some kind of safety feature..Idk)
OR
That the radio is going to a mono output thus causing signal feedback...Maybe getting some kind of summing unit
and build a blocker to plug in only the left channel....
IDK
Any advice?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
I'm guessing that the factory amp is going into an overload condition and shutting down, not sure why, but first thing I'd do is pull out the addgm24 and check for shorts between the wires you soldered connectors on to.
With the harness unplugged you should have completely open circuits on all of the RCA's, if the meter reacts at all that's bad. I actually had a short in an RCA plug that I soldered on when installing my Mother's surround sound system, the processor would short out and go into protection mode within 30 seconds of being turned on every time. I figured out which wire was bad by unplugging them one at a time until the problem went away.
Did you do anything else to the factory setup other than plug in the addgm24?
With the harness unplugged you should have completely open circuits on all of the RCA's, if the meter reacts at all that's bad. I actually had a short in an RCA plug that I soldered on when installing my Mother's surround sound system, the processor would short out and go into protection mode within 30 seconds of being turned on every time. I figured out which wire was bad by unplugging them one at a time until the problem went away.
Did you do anything else to the factory setup other than plug in the addgm24?
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 83
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From: Lafayette Louisiana
Yeah i will take out the console again and check all soldering for shorts...
No all i did was plug it in...and use my rear pair of rca's to send to the amp.
Trigger cable is in my wiper circuit..run to the amp...power cable is good. ..
No all i did was plug it in...and use my rear pair of rca's to send to the amp.
Trigger cable is in my wiper circuit..run to the amp...power cable is good. ..
