C5 Z speaker upgrade ?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Canon City Colorado
C5 Z speaker upgrade ?
I currently have a Kenwood DNX 512 with stock Bose speakers. I do have the harness that will power the Bose amps for the Kenwood head unit.
Basically it sounds like crap and I want to ditch the harness and Bose speakers for a quality fair priced after market set that is powered off the Kenwood head unit. A buddy of mine who works for a stereo shop said it will sound like absolute sh*t unless I add an amp too.
I figured it would have to sound better than it does now. I have absolutley no high's and the sound seems muffled when down low. I hate it.
What do you guy's think?
Basically it sounds like crap and I want to ditch the harness and Bose speakers for a quality fair priced after market set that is powered off the Kenwood head unit. A buddy of mine who works for a stereo shop said it will sound like absolute sh*t unless I add an amp too.
I figured it would have to sound better than it does now. I have absolutley no high's and the sound seems muffled when down low. I hate it.
What do you guy's think?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
Try changing the 3.5'' midrange in the door with a 3.5'' coaxial. I think many non-audiophiles have done that and enjoyed the change. Should add a lot more mids/highs. Lows, I think you're better off with the Bose door-woofer setup than trying to get anything spectacular off the headunit power.
I don't think your plan would sound like ****, but I don't think it would sound fantastic either. Probably better than the Bose with midrange and highs. Probably equal or worse for the lows.
I don't think your plan would sound like ****, but I don't think it would sound fantastic either. Probably better than the Bose with midrange and highs. Probably equal or worse for the lows.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
If you take out the oem door subs and don't put in a real sub, then it would sound like doo doo. As mentioned, changing the 3.5" is an improvement, but if you're currently THAT unhappy with the system, then it prob wouldn't be enough for you to be satisfied.
Not sure what your budget is, but you can make it sound pretty darn good for under $600 if you did components in the doors and a sub in back, all powered from a single 4-channel amp bridged to 3 channels.
Just as examples:
$150ish Polk db6501 or similar 6.5" components in the doors
$120-200 Sub in box for center tub (several options here)
$150ish Bridgeable 4-channel amp like this one
$50 misc wires
~$500-600 Total
Not sure what your budget is, but you can make it sound pretty darn good for under $600 if you did components in the doors and a sub in back, all powered from a single 4-channel amp bridged to 3 channels.
Just as examples:
$150ish Polk db6501 or similar 6.5" components in the doors
$120-200 Sub in box for center tub (several options here)
$150ish Bridgeable 4-channel amp like this one
$50 misc wires
~$500-600 Total
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 18,293
Likes: 137
From: Hazel Green, Wi www.doubledmods.com
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
first thing I would check is what harness did you use to retain stock speakers?
If you used an roem-vet1 did you make sure to connect the blue white from the radio to the blue on the pac
if not and connected blue white to blue white this will make it sound like crap as well.
this simple wire change could be a free fix that will make it something you might enjoy with spending zero dollars
If you used an roem-vet1 did you make sure to connect the blue white from the radio to the blue on the pac
if not and connected blue white to blue white this will make it sound like crap as well.
this simple wire change could be a free fix that will make it something you might enjoy with spending zero dollars
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Canon City Colorado
I did in fact use the roem vet-1 that I purchased from you guy's when I did the bezel mod. I will have to check for sure on the wiring but I think I did it correctly.
I was thinking about this speaker package from DD Mods.
http://shop.doubledmods.com/C5-Speak...kerupgrade.htm
Would this be an improvement? Would I still need the roem -vet 1?
I was thinking about this speaker package from DD Mods.
http://shop.doubledmods.com/C5-Speak...kerupgrade.htm
Would this be an improvement? Would I still need the roem -vet 1?
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 18,293
Likes: 137
From: Hazel Green, Wi www.doubledmods.com
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
I did in fact use the roem vet-1 that I purchased from you guy's when I did the bezel mod. I will have to check for sure on the wiring but I think I did it correctly.
I was thinking about this speaker package from DD Mods.
http://shop.doubledmods.com/C5-Speak...kerupgrade.htm
Would this be an improvement? Would I still need the roem -vet 1?
I was thinking about this speaker package from DD Mods.
http://shop.doubledmods.com/C5-Speak...kerupgrade.htm
Would this be an improvement? Would I still need the roem -vet 1?
If doing this option yes still need roem-vet1
Check your wire too and make sure you have it correct.
You can adjust the setting on the roem-vet1 as well if you want to mess with that
Thanks for your business and sorry I just dont know all forum names of who bought what
Dennis
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Canon City Colorado
If doing this option yes still need roem-vet1
Check your wire too and make sure you have it correct.
You can adjust the setting on the roem-vet1 as well if you want to mess with that
Thanks for your business and sorry I just dont know all forum names of who bought what
Dennis
Check your wire too and make sure you have it correct.
You can adjust the setting on the roem-vet1 as well if you want to mess with that
Thanks for your business and sorry I just dont know all forum names of who bought what
Dennis
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 18,293
Likes: 137
From: Hazel Green, Wi www.doubledmods.com
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Canon City Colorado
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Canon City Colorado
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,131
Likes: 12
From: Houston Tx
Want to bump thread cause I also want to upgrade my stock speakers. As of now I am running a 10" Alpine Type R on a a PPI (I think) 2000 watt amp. It hits good, but the speakers can't seem to keep up with the sub once I get past a certain volume number. They start to distort. Can I just do a swap of all 4 speakers or do I need other things? I am running a flip out head unit screen. So it is an aftermarket h/u.
Last edited by crAzy; Aug 28, 2012 at 02:15 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
Want to bump thread cause I also want to upgrade my stock speakers. As of now I am running a 10" Alpine Type R on a a PPI (I think) 2000 watt amp. It hits good, but the speakers can't seem to keep up with the sub once I get past a certain volume number. They start to distort. Can I just do a swap of all 4 speakers or do I need other things? I am running a flip out head unit screen. So it is an aftermarket h/u.
6.5" components in the doors getting at least 100wRMS each would be nice, 2-channel or bridged 4-channel amp. If you like having the rears amped you can get four new speakers and a 4-channel amp for a bit more volume.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,131
Likes: 12
From: Houston Tx
If all speakers are stock except the sub, then you'll need an aftermarket amp and new speakers to even come close to keeping up with the sub. C5 speakers don't have any external amps, only the HU internal
6.5" components in the doors getting at least 100wRMS each would be nice, 2-channel or bridged 4-channel amp. If you like having the rears amped you can get four new speakers and a 4-channel amp for a bit more volume.
6.5" components in the doors getting at least 100wRMS each would be nice, 2-channel or bridged 4-channel amp. If you like having the rears amped you can get four new speakers and a 4-channel amp for a bit more volume.
Channel:2
4 ohm: 200W per channel
2 ohm: 400W per channel
Bridged: 800W mono
Damping: >500
S/N Ratio: >115dB
Dimension: 2.375" x 10" x 18.5"
THD: 02%
Power Input: 4 Gauge
Freq. Resp.: 4.5-100k
I/P Sens.: .15-12V
X/O Slope: 12dB
X/O Freq.: 30Hz-4kHz
X/O Type: 2 way
Input Type: 12 vDC
Cooling Fan: Yes
QBass: QBass™ Plus
4 ohm: 200W per channel
2 ohm: 400W per channel
Bridged: 800W mono
Damping: >500
S/N Ratio: >115dB
Dimension: 2.375" x 10" x 18.5"
THD: 02%
Power Input: 4 Gauge
Freq. Resp.: 4.5-100k
I/P Sens.: .15-12V
X/O Slope: 12dB
X/O Freq.: 30Hz-4kHz
X/O Type: 2 way
Input Type: 12 vDC
Cooling Fan: Yes
QBass: QBass™ Plus
Last edited by crAzy; Aug 28, 2012 at 06:30 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
That's a 2-channel amp that looks like it's currently only using one of the channels on the sub (your original post made it sound like you were putting 2000 watts to the sub, it's actually doing 200 or 400 depending on the sub resistance). If you add a new set of component speakers in the front you'll need another two channels of amplification, the PCX only has one left.
You can keep the PCX on sub and buy a new amp for the fronts -OR- use PCX on fronts and buy new amp for sub -OR- buy a new 4-channel amp and use ch1&2 on fronts and bridge ch3&4 to sub (if you want to do this, make sure sub resistance will work on bridged amp - if it's 2ohms most amps won't bridge less than 4ohms).
You can keep the PCX on sub and buy a new amp for the fronts -OR- use PCX on fronts and buy new amp for sub -OR- buy a new 4-channel amp and use ch1&2 on fronts and bridge ch3&4 to sub (if you want to do this, make sure sub resistance will work on bridged amp - if it's 2ohms most amps won't bridge less than 4ohms).
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,131
Likes: 12
From: Houston Tx
That's a 2-channel amp that looks like it's currently only using one of the channels on the sub (your original post made it sound like you were putting 2000 watts to the sub, it's actually doing 200 or 400 depending on the sub resistance). If you add a new set of component speakers in the front you'll need another two channels of amplification, the PCX only has one left.
You can keep the PCX on sub and buy a new amp for the fronts -OR- use PCX on fronts and buy new amp for sub -OR- buy a new 4-channel amp and use ch1&2 on fronts and bridge ch3&4 to sub (if you want to do this, make sure sub resistance will work on bridged amp - if it's 2ohms most amps won't bridge less than 4ohms).
You can keep the PCX on sub and buy a new amp for the fronts -OR- use PCX on fronts and buy new amp for sub -OR- buy a new 4-channel amp and use ch1&2 on fronts and bridge ch3&4 to sub (if you want to do this, make sure sub resistance will work on bridged amp - if it's 2ohms most amps won't bridge less than 4ohms).
Whats wrong with running the new speakers off the h/u?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
HU amp can't adequately power components. You can get new 3.5" and 5.25" speakers to do a straight swap, but it won't get any louder. The level that the distortion starts will prob go up a bit, and it will prob sound a bit better, but still won't be any louder. If you want more volume you'll need more power, in order to play that power you'll need speakers that can handle it.