All,

Just found the audio section. Been knocking around ideas. I really should read all the FAQ's here before asking, but hoping for a little mercy for a new supporting member. Promise it'll be easy.

Been reading all sorts of opinions in a couple threads I've started. Seems my smartest course of action is simply replace six speakers, the woofers in the doors, put decent 2ways in the 3.5"s in the doors, and replace the 5.25"s rear with top gear, not necessarily reference standard but good. Heard a lot of great opinions, but this seems the easiest and cheapest.

I'm dealing with a local stereo shop I like, but I don't have a tremendous amount of faith in their abilities. Good people, but seem a little loose and disorganized top down. I need this simple.

The woofers, some opinions are keep surface area, replace with the largest possible. But it's also a shallow mount with and I assume free air? What is the easiest crisp, clear solution. Don't need that loud. I just need it to sound right? 6.5"s, 8"s or 10"s and what brand?

Are the 3.5's in the doors and the 5.25"s rear considered shallow mount, or will any 3.5 and 5.25 2ways work?

Should I try to do this without replacing the factory amp, or does the amp need to go, too?

Thanks..

 

You will need an amp to replace the subs in the doors and go with a setup such as 6.5 components

you can replace the 3.5 and rear 5.25 with ease and not need an amp.

putting shallow mount subs back in the door to me is a waste of time and money
Your much better off adding a sub in the back if you want more bass.

Here is a great option you can do that will upgrade the 3.5 and 5.25 with the connectors required for simple install
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...le-d-mods.html

If you want more upgrade options to include adding an amp to stock radio just give me a call
608 568 3011

Dennis

 

Can you elaborate on why replacing the subs in the doors is a waste? Is it just not far enough from the ears or what?

 

its simple your going to spend at least 80.00 on each shallow sub and need an amp plus a 40.00 harness to add the preouts to your stock radio.
thats at least 300.00 into something your not going to gain the bass your expecting.

a sub box in back is the best way to go with components in the doors.

Most of it comes down to how much your wanting to spend and what your expectations are

 

That's right, forget about using subwoofers in the doors - go with 6.5s and tweeters in the doors and get a proper subwoofer setup that resides in the cargo area. You may not be aware, but a properly setup subwoofer has non-directional sound properties so it will sound like the bass is all coming from the front of the car anyway. Also, invest in a good head-unit and amplifier(s) too since all of the factory sound equipment in C6s is for the birds.

 

Is there any advantage to components over coaxials? Should I do true 6.5 mids and tweets, a component system with coaxial 5.25's rear?

 

with the components you can put the 6.5 down low and the tweets where the 3.5's are

the rear 5.25 is not needed if you do a nice set of 6.5's in front and using a nice amp
most do want the 5.25 in the rear when we sell packages to customers.

If you have a budget in mind I can get you a package deal for this to use and retain the stock head unit.

Or call me if you like.
608 568 3011
Will be there in an hour

 

Never mind. Ordered JL C2 series components front and C2 series coaxial rear.

 

Amps:

Will the factory amp power the C2's I've just purchased? I understand from reading here that the factory speakers require far lower power, so I'm guessing the answer is yes, but volume will be insufficient?

What 4 channel amps will fit under dash unseen? I'm aware of Arc, and am certain their smallest amps would have to work, but very expensive if unnecessary.

Seriously considering Flynfamily's suggestion of multiple JL 6w3v3's hidden in the rear glove boxes. He used four, but I'd probably go with two. I already have one new in box. If I did so, is there a single amp that would drive all speakers and the subs, or is a second dedicated 1 channel always required?

Thanks...

 

I'll put the plug in for going Arc Audio minis - good reviews, compact, efficient, good power, built-in fan, and very good resale if you ever decide to sell too. Trying to find used minis is almost impossible - why? Because they are so good no-one is giving them up - unlike the JLs, Alpine PDX, etc...

Seriously, IMO if you want a very good value for your dollar, a relatively unobtrusive setup, and guaranteed quality "sound" advice for vettes go with one of the CF audio vendor's suggestions.

One other hint: Buy a bunch of quality peel and stick sound deadener (like Ensolite) for at least your cargo floor and wheel well areas as well as your doors. $ well spent.

 

Thanks. Who sells the insulation?

 

The other question is do I need an amp for the replacement speakers or just the sub? Assuming I do, but if I'm wrong, would be an expensive mistake.

 

yes you will need an amp for replacement front speakers and the harness to add an amp to the stock radio

We have all your needs and can easily walk you through this on point you in the right direction

 

Thanks. Just looking at the power ratings of the gear I bought made it clear I needed to step up. More research indicated best placement for amps was under the pax seat, and that meant only one vendor, Arc mini's. I checked your site and you don't sell them that I could tell.

Amps are purchased, Arc ks125.4 and ks125.2bx.

I'm going to see how it goes with the stock head unit.

 

DON'T DO IT MAN!

Just saying...
because you already have some great sounding equipment coming - and the stock HU will be the weak link to realizing the sound quality potential of your amps etc,.

You may be happy with the improvements from the other pieces, but you may just end up unnecessarily spending more money and time in the end when you install an aftermarket HU. Been there myself a few times... besides I would always be curious to know just how good my system would sound with a good HU.

 

Okay. If I don't swap it now, how much effort am I wasting? I'm not replacing speakers under the dash. How much effort installing what I've ordered will overlap with the task of replacing the head unit?

 

It depends on how you have the factory HU setup with your new amps etc., but Dennis could talk you through the different scenarios. I believe the factory deck has to come out anyway if you are using aftermarket amps (so the installer can tap into the low-level output of the stock HU) - don't even consider using the high-level inputs with those sweet amps even for sub duty I'd estimate it would be wasting about $150-$175 overall labor for a pro installer at a good shop.

 

I heard from someone in a related thread I started that the signal from the factory amp was good. Lots of conflicting info. Three threads I've heard woofers in doors and no, factory head unit is fine and no, stock speakers really just need more power and no. The only people I'm sure are right are the ones saying swap everything and it will sound best. So i guess I agree with you.

 

Understand I'm getting these amps for form factor. I know they're really good, but they'll be driving mid level JLs and a minimalist sub. I wont be reference standard. The head unit should be good enough for the speakers, not paying homage to the amps.

 

oh but I do...you just needed to call like I mentioned
ks125.4
ks 125..2bx2
C-2 650
C2-525x
729.99 shipped and had them instock