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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 09:58 AM
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Default Car Audio question

Back in the past I used to work for a car audio place doing sales and install. Been quite some years and not up to date to much any more.

well i know the c6 has 3.5 mids and 10s in the doors and 6s i think in the back. I want to replace the nav unit and run a 4 channel. My question is can those fronts be ran off the 4 channel or should i look into making some door panels for 6.5s or finding a shallow mount 8in woofer and get a small 2 channel for those?
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 10:31 AM
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I use to too back in late 80s and early 90s, The new tecknololgy and the vette are a beast. Plan on spending 2-4K +. Lots of advise in audio section. There are a few different theories. You will need a sub too... IMO
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottJ03
I use to too back in late 80s and early 90s, The new tecknololgy and the vette are a beast. Plan on spending 2-4K +. Lots of advise in audio section. There are a few different theories. You will need a sub too... IMO
Thank fully i don't have steering wheel controls and idc about onstar lol so don't need those pack adapters lol

Didnt see the audio section.. time to wake up this morning lol
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by UmX
Thank fully i don't have steering wheel controls and idc about onstar lol so don't need those pack adapters lol

Didnt see the audio section.. time to wake up this morning lol
I'll move this for you.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 11:29 AM
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Also If you replace the radio.. Is there a way to trigger the stock amp for the 10in doors.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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C6 prints are here. Amp trigger wire is white wire at B3.

Rears are 5.25" in all C6.

Door subs are self amped. If you REALLY want to keep them, I'd suggest using a C2R-GM24 to make the connections easiest.

Best budget system would be to yank oem door subs, put in 6.5" components in doors and a real sub in the trunk. Use a bridged 4-channel to power all that, then use HU internal or oem amp on stock rears if you want the fill.

Also, if you don't get the c2r you'll lose RAP and have to find true switched power in the footwell fuse box.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by markcz
C6 prints are here. Amp trigger wire is white wire at B3.

Rears are 5.25" in all C6.

Door subs are self amped. If you REALLY want to keep them, I'd suggest using a C2R-GM24 to make the connections easiest.

Best budget system would be to yank oem door subs, put in 6.5" components in doors and a real sub in the trunk. Use a bridged 4-channel to power all that, then use HU internal or oem amp on stock rears if you want the fill.

Also, if you don't get the c2r you'll lose RAP and have to find true switched power in the footwell fuse box.

Not sure what rap is...what else will i not have with a aftermarket radio. Ya im going to replace all the speakers with some polk audios and prob a 10 or 2.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 04:33 PM
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Retained Accessory Power = radio on until you open a door.

You can use wiper or heated seat fuses IIRC for true switched power.

Car may also throw a code if no radio or interface module are present.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by markcz
Retained Accessory Power = radio on until you open a door.

You can use wiper or heated seat fuses IIRC for true switched power.

Car may also throw a code if no radio or interface module are present.
ahh ill have to remember that. One of those links explain how to fix a throw code?
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 12:48 AM
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There are posts for how to use resistors in a C4, but I can't recall ever seeing any info for C6. You may be fine, I don't even remember ever reading about anyone getting the CEL, it's just known that removing the radio will cause loss of coms codes.
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by markcz
Best budget system would be to yank oem door subs, put in 6.5" components in doors and a real sub in the trunk. Use a bridged 4-channel to power all that, then use HU internal or oem amp on stock rears if you want the fill.
This is exactly what I did. If I had to do it over again, I would actually do a FIVE channel amp and power the doors and rears of four of the channels and the sub would be powered from the fifth channel.

However, if you have a coupe, you don't need the rears. If you have a Vert, you do need them, IMHO.

Last edited by tampatopless; Aug 4, 2012 at 10:57 AM.
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