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Couple problems with system install C6 Z06.

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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by markcz
One GLI for each set of audio RCA's you used. If you have front/rear/sub, then 3. Sometimes the sub doesn't need them if amp filters out high frequency whine, but IMO it doesn't hurt to have the GLI.
Alright thanks. Will get 3 to be safe.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 06:17 PM
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sounds even worse when I added all 3 glis. The hell?
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:10 PM
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The whine is worse or are the gli's making it sound muffled?
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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the gli make the whine louder and also a louder hiss. Also I tried fixing the camera rca and nothing. noticed the rca has 2 separate wires. I soldered them on the rca male plug and nothing. Going to call place tom and see if I can get replacement harness.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 10:39 PM
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Should I maybe relocate the ground wire from the battery neg (-) to the chassis?
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 11:26 PM
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If adding GLI makes the problems worse, then something isn't right. You're using the line-level RCA outputs from the HU connected directly to the RCA inputs on your amp, right?

You can try moving amp grounds, but straight to battery is as good as it gets. Check wires at HU to make sure you have a good connection there.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by markcz
If adding GLI makes the problems worse, then something isn't right. You're using the line-level RCA outputs from the HU connected directly to the RCA inputs on your amp, right?

You can try moving amp grounds, but straight to battery is as good as it gets. Check wires at HU to make sure you have a good connection there.
Yes. Two sets of rca are plugged into front and rear. Then third set is plugged into sub out. Those are all plugged into amp. What would happen if they were backwards? Not negative and positive but front plugged into rear and vice versa?

Yea I am unsure why the gli makes the sound louder. I even hooked them up to both headunit and amp side. Could having the power and ground near the rca be a problem?
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 07:40 AM
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I tried moving the power and ground wires to the opposite side of the amp so they don't run with the speaker wires. I might go further to cut a small hole in the carpet and run then through there or through the small hook hole or whatever that is. Also what if I grounded the headunit to that bolt in the dash? Could be worth a shot right? I can't stand the whine especially with the volume low. Also the small slight hiss you can hear when the headunit is on.

Heres how I installed it:

1. Ran door speakers through the rubber insulator through the rectangle grommet. Down to the passenger side footwell where I placed both crossovers there. Then ran all those speaker wires back to the amp on the passenger side. I also ran the rear speaker wires with them as well.

2. I ran 3 sets of RCAs, Remote wire and Camera wires down the center of the car. I then took the 3 RCAs and the remote wire and paired them off to meet up with the speaker wires behind the passenger seat wall. The camera wires went straight back.

3. The power and ground are directly on the battery terminals and I ran them down the side of the passenger side wheel wale. They come out right around where the hatch strut shock is on passenger side.

4. On my NX5 amp. The power, ground, remote and speaker wires are terminated on one side while the other side is for all RCAs.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 09:33 AM
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Wire routing sounds fine, all you really need to avoid is long runs of RCA and amp power cables side by side.

I've never had alternator whine bad enough that the GLI's didn't fix it, but you can try adding a power line noise filter to the HU. I've only used one once on other peoples installs in the past, but MY car always gets one (just in case). THIS is what I'm talking about, it goes on the B+ supply coming off of the interface adapter. Make sure you wire it in so the car B+ feeds the filter, then EVERYTHING else comes out of the filter. Radio Shack used to have them, you may get lucky. If you have a Frys close by they may have it.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by markcz
Wire routing sounds fine, all you really need to avoid is long runs of RCA and amp power cables side by side.

I've never had alternator whine bad enough that the GLI's didn't fix it, but you can try adding a power line noise filter to the HU. I've only used one once on other peoples installs in the past, but MY car always gets one (just in case). THIS is what I'm talking about, it goes on the B+ supply coming off of the interface adapter. Make sure you wire it in so the car B+ feeds the filter, then EVERYTHING else comes out of the filter. Radio Shack used to have them, you may get lucky. If you have a Frys close by they may have it.
The RCAs are what I got from Dennis. I talked with him and he said I should try to move the ground off the terminal to the chassis somewhere (passenger seat, etc) before anything else. If that isn't it then I was going to rewire everything from the headunit to make it nice and neat. If that isn't the cause I guess I can try that unit. Then if that isnt it we might have to RMA the amp. Since its happening to all the speakers. Just sucks that crap like this happens. On that unit you linked me to where does the blue wire go to? Im assuming the B+ on the pac unit like you said? Then the red and black go to a power source and ground?
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 12:23 PM
  #31  
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If issue was in amp the whine/hiss probably wouldn't go away with HU in standby.

Do you get the whine and hiss with the car off, or just with it running?

They all look just a bit different, but to connect the line filter in that link you would cut the red B+ wire on the interface harness that comes out of the plug connected to the car. Attach the blue wire on the car (supply) side and the red wire on the HU (load) side. The black wire gets connected to the ground. The filter needs power and ground on blue/black, then red supplies filtered power to HU and any other items powered by car 'radio' fuse (interface adapter, HU, sat radio, etc...).
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by markcz
If issue was in amp the whine/hiss probably wouldn't go away with HU in standby.

Do you get the whine and hiss with the car off, or just with it running?

They all look just a bit different, but to connect the line filter in that link you would cut the red B+ wire on the interface harness that comes out of the plug connected to the car. Attach the blue wire on the car (supply) side and the red wire on the HU (load) side. The black wire gets connected to the ground. The filter needs power and ground on blue/black, then red supplies filtered power to HU and any other items powered by car 'radio' fuse (interface adapter, HU, sat radio, etc...).

Hiss while car is on acc. mode. Whine and hiss when car is started. When headunit is on standby hiss and whine do not exist.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by crAzy03Z06
Hiss while car is on acc. mode. Whine and hiss when car is started. When headunit is on standby hiss and whine do not exist.
The power filter will (should) kill the whine with car running, it may help the hiss also.

How did you set the gains on the amp? If they're too high the hiss could be a setup issue. Can you turn up the radio to 75%+ volume level without distortion?
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 12:53 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by markcz
The power filter will (should) kill the whine with car running, it may help the hiss also.

How did you set the gains on the amp? If they're too high the hiss could be a setup issue. Can you turn up the radio to 75%+ volume level without distortion?
I know you said that about the GLI's too lol. But $10 is nothing to cry over if it doesn't work. I think I saw one of these at Frys next to the GLIs. I will stop by Frys today again and prob return the GLIs and get the power filter.

Gain for the comp and coaxial are around 75% I think. I can turn it all the way to 35 (max) on H/U and sound good without any distortion. I also have the mid and treble set down in the negs on the h/u though. The gain on the sub is maxed. On h/u its also on 10 volume for SW and for the bass setting its on 5 I think. Maybe less. I also have the Subsonic setting about 75%-85%.

Here is my PDF for the amp https://www.massiveaudio.com/manuals...nual-Final.pdf (NX5)

Last edited by crAzy; Jan 15, 2013 at 12:59 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 06:26 PM
  #35  
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could I run a 10 amp or do I need a 20
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 09:11 PM
  #36  
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10 should be fine as long as you won't use the HU internal amp.

Turn subsonic filter off, also try swapping the wires (+/-) on the sub speaker wire and see if it sounds any better (or hit 'phase' button on HU if there is one). This has nothing to do with the hiss, just looking for more thump
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by markcz
10 should be fine as long as you won't use the HU internal amp.

Turn subsonic filter off, also try swapping the wires (+/-) on the sub speaker wire and see if it sounds any better (or hit 'phase' button on HU if there is one). This has nothing to do with the hiss, just looking for more thump
What do you mean the headunit internal amp? Yea my sub should be hitting a lot harder than it is now. I had subsonic on. I turned it off. What does switching the sub wires (not RCAs) around do? There is also a button, but I think it is for 4 channel then when depressed it adds the 5th channel sub. Will try for another ground tom after work. Should I return those GLI things or keep them in case?
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 10:24 PM
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I'd keep the GLI's for now, you may still need them.

Swapping phase of sub wires just verifies that they aren't connected backwards. Some subs it doesn't really matter, some have a huge difference if +/- are swapped.

If you have everything connected by RCA's you're OK. HU internal amp is what drives speakers that are conected directly to HU, you're not using that so 10amp filter should be fine.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:31 PM
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So after all the trouble it was the damn ground being on the battery terminal. Looks like I am returning $60 worth of GLIs and inline noise reducer. On a side note I think I may have popped my tweeters. I hear crackling/popping noise at higher volume. I dont see how this is possible as I only had my gain set at about 75%. I have retuned it to sound much better and much lower gain. Prob 25% on the amp now for the fronts and about 40% for the rears.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 05:31 PM
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Glad you got it fixed

You may just be hearing distortion and not have a blown tweeter. You can download a few test tones HERE (many more can be found with google). Use them to set the gains on your amp with HU at neutral on all EQ and bass boost.

For your setup I thinnk I'd start with 440hz on the fronts. Turn all gains down all the way, play 440 at ~75% of max volume and adjust the front gain up until you hear distortion then turn it back just a hair. Note where it is then repeat with 1k and 10k tones. Put front gain at lowest of those three levels after setting sub.

Play 100hz tone and increase sub gain until distortion, then back off a bit. Note level and turn back to 0.

Put fronts back to measured level. Play a song you know well, adjust rear gain up until it sounds good to you (you sholdn't have rears overpowering the fronts, so level will be well below distrtion). Adjust sub gain back up to blend it well with other speakers, don't go above prior distortion line.

If you still need more bass, then go back and mess with HU boost, but be aware you may get dstortion at high istening levels. I have all of my settings so I'll barely get distrtion from my fronts with the loudest song playing from the loudest source (in my car that's Nickelback on my iPod). XM volume is a bit lower, but I know that I can turn it all the way up and not have to worry about anything.

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