I'm looking at Infinity speakers 3.5" for the doors and 5.25 for the rear. They come in different Ohm ratings and i am not an electronics expert. My camaro uses 2 ohm and I like the way they sound. Can anyone tell me..........
1 - what is the ohm rating for the speakers in my 08 3lt Nav Bose system?

2 - does it really matter which one I use?

3 - will one blow apart sooner under higher volume , i have a targa and it will be off in the warm weather. Thanx for any feedback.

 

Get 4 ohm speakers. Any lower and they'll play louder, but only until the amp melts

 

OK so does this mean these are OK to use. This is a clip from the product description of the Infinity 5032CF 5.25" speaker.

True Four Ohm Technology - speaker's 2 ohm impedance combines with OEM speaker wire impedance for a 4 ohm load

 

will a 4" fit?

 

If you're keeping the oem amp, get 4 ohm speakers.




Front - no

Rear - if you use an adapter ring, yes

 

4"will fit in the front if you get creative and angle them and make a mounting bracket for them

 

The ohm listing is for impedance matching. You need to match impedance (kinda like resistance) between your amp and your speakers. Impedance mismatches will work but sometimes you can notice a degradation in output sound. Well, an audiophile might anyway.

 

4 inch Mirus speaker mounted in the stock 3.5 inch location in a C6 door.
Use two of the existing mounting posts and make a bracket out of 6061 aluminum stock (available at Lowes) for the third mounting point.



Received a complete Kenwood upgrade from Dennis. Everything was plug and play and pre-programmed. Plug it in, splice three wires and everything worked!!
Thanks Dennis!

 

Resistance and impedance are similar in that they represent the limiting factor of the flowing of electrons. Resistance is normally DC power based, so you only have "one" resistance. Not true with impedance.

With impedance, we're dealing with alternating current (AC) so we heave to deal with the frequency of the signal. Simple when it's something constant like your wall outlet (60 HZ) but when you're dealing with multiple frequencies (20 ~ 20,000 HZ) it's considerably more difficult.

Speaker manufacturers will give you the specifications of the speaker and a "nominal" value for the impedance. (Kind of like an average.) This lets you know what the overall value is going to be for a given frequency bandwidth, even though the "real" value is constantly changing with frequency. Google "speaker impedance curve" for more information.

That being said, what Mark is saying is on the money. If the original system was designed with a four ohm impedance in mind, then it's best to stick with a four ohm speaker. While a 3 or 2 ohm driver will "work" for a while, it's going to allow much more current to flow than was intended, and may eventually destroy the amplifier.

One thing to understand: Impedance does NOT equal loudness. A speakers ability to play loud has more to do with it's overall design and efficiency. Look for the specification that shows the speaker output in decibels for a particular power input. (One watt at one meter, or 2.83 volts at one meter. The original specification for speakers was based on an 8 ohm speaker, so 2.83 volts into 8 ohm WAS 1 watt. At 2.83 volts, that equates to 2 watts @ 4 ohms and 4 watts @ 2 ohms.)

Anyway, this shows you your "starting point" for the speaker playing music. The more efficient a speaker is, the less power you need to drive it for a given output level. (Overall volume level.)

So you could have a 2 ohm speaker that plays 86 dB @ 2.83v/1 meter, and a 4 ohm that plays 89 dB @ 2.83v/1 meter. The 4 ohm speaker is more efficient and will play louder at the same input voltage... but the 2 ohm speaker is pulling twice the power just to hit 86 dB. Why?

Power = Voltage * Amperes
Voltage = Amperes * Impedance
Thus: Power = Amperes ^2 * Impedance

So in this example where the ratings are given in voltages, one speaker is half the impedance (2 ohm) than the other. (4 ohm) This means that it's going to be pulling twice the current for our given voltage level. So while the 4 ohm speaker is pulling 2 watts, the 2 ohm is pulling 4 watts. If your amplifier and both speakers are good for 30 watts/channel, then you're going to hit the "ceiling" on that 2 ohm driver and never catch the output of the 4 ohm driver.

All that being said, look for speakers rated at 4 ohms that have a high efficiency rating if you're looking for it to be loud... but the most important thing after impedance is going to be how it SOUNDS to YOU. So let your ears be the judge of that.

Good luck.

 

or just take all guesswork out of it and get our Kicker upgrade package like 100's of others have done

http://shop.doubledmods.com/C6-Speak...kerpackage.htm

 

Fasthotrod thanx for your detailed report, I will re-read this a couple of times and try and wrap my head around it lol. Kinda reminds me of my High Schools days of learning basic electric. I will do some more research on this, it sounds interesting!

DD thank You for your responses also. For a less expensive speaker I'm kinda hooked on JL Audio and Infinity I currently have both right now in other cars. I have had Sony speakers and they sound OK if they are component but they do not last. Maybe I will wait another month for the weather to break and see if I can find someone with Kicker's so I can see what they sound like.

 

If you want JL I can do the TR350 and TR525 with adapters for 149.99 shipped
I would do the Kickers over Infinity if it were me