I'm planning on doing the install myself with a few of my buddies and I was wondering what parts / wires / tools I would need so I could take a saturday and do everything. I don't have anything right now so starting from the ground up soon.

What would I need to strip out the existing bose stereo?

Here is the list of equipment i'm putting in.

Headunit : Sony CDX-MP70
Front Speakers : Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 6.5" Component System
Rear Speakers : Infinity Kappa Perfect 652i Reference System
Sub : Infinity Kappa Perfect 12"
Amps : Undecided. Thinking about the sony XM-1600GXD for the sub and the sony XM-475GSX for the speakers.

Dunno if I should buy a capacitor or not. I know little to nothing about the electrical systems in this car.

What parts do I need? Like a wiring harness, PACS converter (whatever that is :)), install kits, what kind of wire?

Thanks!

 

Dont buy sony amps if you can avoid it. The whole line is spotty at best. If you'd like some good low cost amps, how about US Acoustics?

I installed a sony Xplod head unit in a Camry, it took all of 3 months to self destruct.

Don't buy Sony subs, either. I had one, it sounded like a wet fart.

http://thezeb.com/caraudio/usacoustics.html

You'll need a soldering iron, Solder, obviously
screwdrivers
7mm (I think its 7mm) socket (standard size to remove head unit)

Don't get a capacitor.

if your car cant produce enough juice (and it should) you should rather go with a yellow top optima and upgraded alternator and wires. :-)



[Modified by Kale, 10:37 AM 6/21/2002]

 

Wet Fart..... :lol:

 

lol wet farts :lol:

I'm wondering if I should buy an amp just for the speakers and then one for the sub. A few friends of mine are telling me not to do it because 'I don't need that much power going to mids/highs'. I'm just now getting familiar with car audio. What would some of you suggest?

Patrick

 

Skip the sony amps they stink. You also do not need a cap. You aren't going to need nearly enough power to justify one and it would just be a waste of cash.
Tools:
Decide if you want to solder, crimp or both. Crimp is ok, solder is the best but a PITA.
Crimpers
Crimps( Blue and Yellow Butts, Forks, speaker terminal female spades)
Shrink wrap(for solder joints)
wire ties 3" and 6"
1/4" drive socket set with nut driver Metric and Standard
Maybe Torx if C5 uses them
Phillips head #1 and #2
Flat head Full size and very small for amp adjustments
Wire strippers/cutters
Allen keys
Fuse holder( 4 gauge with fuse matched to amps)
25' of power wire 4 gauge(Measure by using a string or small wire before getting this as it costs $$$)
12 Gauge speaker wire
A 16 gauge wire for remote
Test light or meter
Dash Kit
Wire harness
Drill
Battery tap
4 gauge loop wire ends for connecting to tap and ground
MDF 3/4" for building a box for the sub
7/64", 1/8", 3/8", phillips head #2 drill bits
Various length Pan head screws in black
Jigsaw for sub box
Circular saw for box
Liquid glue chaulk tubes for box
Clamps for box
Polyfill for box
Paint-Satin black spray
Carpet for box top
Belt sander and sand paper for box and ground connection
Razor knife
Tape measure
Beer

 

Get an amp 50x4 -100wx4 for the speakers and a sub amp seperately. The radio puts out about 10x4 continuous and is not enough for the speakers to sound good and they will be overpowered by the sub without one.


[Modified by 92TripleBlack, 2:29 PM 6/21/2002]

 

Is it a dual or single voice coil sub?

 

since you seem to like infiniti's a lot, how about an infinity perfect 12" sub with 300wrms of power?

I run my front components (Focal) at 120watts each side, and my 10" IDQ sub at 250 watts (no rear speakers, for sound quality and imaging purposes) and it blends perfectly. I think i could add another 10" sub and it would still blend.

i think there was a 75x4 us acoustics on there for a great price.


I say at least 80x2 for front components.
200-300x1 for a good sub, depending on efficiency and power handling.



[Modified by Kale, 11:28 AM 6/21/2002]

 

92TripleBlack : thanks for all the install info!

I'm pretty sure it's a single voice coil. I ordered it a few days ago and it doesn't have the 'D' in the product description. How are the JL amps? I've heard they are good for the price. Maybe the 250/1 for the sub and the 300/4 for the speakers?

Kale: I'm looking at the US Accoustics amp... I like it. I can't really decide which amps I should get. US Accoustics is one choice, maybe JL, not completely sure tho. The 'Wet Fart' sony's are out! :lol:

BTW.. what is the difference between single voice coile and double voice coil?

 

JL's are decent and clean, providing you are talking the class A amps.


Say we have a single voice coil 4ohm sub..
You can only wire this (when alone) as 4ohm

Then lets say you have a dual voice coil sub, this allows for more flexibility
if you have a dual 2 ohm, you can wire it as a 2ohm or a 4ohm sub.

thats kind of a glimpse into it...

 

I've noticed the class marking on the amps. What do they stand for? I've seen the AB and class D. What's the difference?

 

D stands for dirty!


well, A class amps are "full range" high quality amps

D class are efficient... and really only usable as subwoofer amplifiers.
Couple sub companies say that D class are the "death of subs" because of how "dirty" they are, but I'm not sure I believe it.. they make a lot of power for not a lot of money.

 

Skip class D. Class AB is standard for higher end amps. Class A are rare. They run at full power all the time and let out only what is needed instead of AB producing power as needed. They are rare in cars as they draw alot and run very hot since they are always full on. JL should work well with your stuff. Higher quality amps won't do anything for your SQ with the other equipment choices. You may want to go a little higher on the sub amp if you can find it. It wants 350 continuous at 4 ohm.