I've been researching the heck out of how to upgrade the audio in my 2013 Blose system. Plan is to replace the HU with a Kenwood DNX890HD and then add a 4 channel amp, no sub. My concerns are with the amp and the stock speakers.
Is it an easy install for a quality shop to add the amp? Seems I read conflicting info about connecting after market amps to a Bose speaker system. Will the power of the amp go through the HU then onto to the speakers? Will the shop need to do anything special to get the amp to work with the stock speakers?

 

HU swap is relatively easy if they use the right interface adapter.

Replacing amp without putting in new speakers isn't a good idea, the stock speakers can't handle any more power than they're already getting (and they're easily the weak link in the whole setup, but with the addition of the dash tweets it's not as bad as it used to be).

 

How muck power does the stock Bose unit have including the amp? How much can the stock speakers take?

 

The HU puts out a pure line-level signal to the amp/processor.

Amp power is a very well kept secret, but it isn't much. Speakers can handle a bit more, but changing only the amp isn't an option if you're looking for better sound.

Upgrading speakers will give minor improvement, but aftermarket amp and speaker upgrade is the only way to really get a jump in quality.

If you pull door subs you will lose some low bass, even compared to well powered components.

 

One thing at a time. HU first, amp second, speakers third. Otherwise I will not be able to hear what made the most improvement I do plan on changing out the speakers after the amp.
At least it gets less expensive with each additional change. I do appreciate your input though.

 

I'd have to recommend doing HU now, then save up to do amp/speakers at same time later.

It's also important to match specs of amp with the speakers you buy to get the best sounding system.

 

you can easily do the 890 yourself as well with our help and a prewired package we have for you on the 890. Will save you $$$ towards the rest of the install.

If your not going to do it at least have them run the rca cables and the amp trigger wire when the radio is out now. Then they will not have to take radio out later to upgrade to the new amps and speakers.

 

Thanks, but I HATE doing any sort of electrical work and find it easier to write the check.
Like I said before, HU will be first, then the amp, followed by speakers. I want to hear the difference with each component installed otherwise I haven't a clue as to what helped the most.

 

Do not try to put an aftermarket amp on stock speakers

 

Why?

 

This is why. I agree with Mark and Pentavolvo here... trying to add an aftermarket amplifier to factory speakers is a waste of time and money. But if you still want to do it, knock yourself out.

If you already have it in your head to do it, why come here looking for advice?

 

Easy answer. I want to have the amp installed after the HU and was hoping someone could post who had actually done it.

I was told not to install an amp in my 2002 Ford truck for the same reason and 6 years later both the amp and stock speakers were fine.

Was hoping to get some actual first hand experiences with people who had actually did the amp install before swapping speakers. These are the type of opinions I value. People who actually tried it and could post factual results.
Whats the worse that could happen? Blow the speakers? Big deal, then I at least tried it and found the results. Would just mean I would be buying speakers sooner than later.

Now if any of you can tell me that adding the amp first would destroy something else in my system I am all ears.

 

The speakers are the weak link. Adding a more powerful amp will give you louder music, right up to the point where the speakers start to distort (only slightly above stock amp capability). If you run them like that for very long they're much more likely to blow.

OEM amp in a '13 Bose powers ALL speakers in the car, so you'll be losing the door subs unless you buy another amp for them. Door twiddlers are wired in parallel with dash tweets, personally I don't know what that resistance load is at the amps, possibly 2ohms or less, so not all aftermarket amps would even be able to do that without overheating.

You won't find many people who have done what you're asking about, if any, because it's just not something that would be considered a good idea.

From my personal experience, and many others, if you replace the entire door setup with components and add a 10" sub in the back with a single bridged 4-channel amp your sound will be TONS better than stock, regardless of the HU providing the music. An aftermarket amp(s) powering all stock speakers will most likely sound WORSE than the stock amp with it's included crossovers and processor. JMHO

 

Would doing it this way mean the rear and dash speakers are no longer used? How can a 4 channel amp power 4 door speakers as well as a sub?

It is pretty hard trying to figure out what to do. Some guys here claim the HU is the weakest link, others say the Bose amp sucks, and then others say the speakers are the weakest link.

 

The HU is nothing special, but it does put out a clean full-spectrum signal. The only real complaint I would have is the lack of adjustability/control of the output signal.

The stock amp does what it was designed to do. However, compared to all but the cheapest aftermarket amps it would be considered weak. It also doubles as a crossover/processor for the signal coming out of the HU, which all but rules out a direct aftermarket replacement. The front twiddlers/tweets are 2 channels, center channel is another, door subs add 2 more, rears are a single channel mono output - all of that coming from one amp that's smaller than most decent crossovers.

Stock speakers are paper POS.

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An aftermarket setup of 6.5" components in the doors, no rears, and a sub in trunk can be ran of of a 4-channel amp configured for 3-channel operation. I've put in several of them for other forum members in my garage, every one blew away the stock setup easily regardless of amp or speaker quality (assuming you don't buy the cheapest stuff wally world sells in the automotive isle).

If you have a HU with good output controls, a mid-grade amp, and the best speakers you can budget for.....

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To answer your questions.... With the component/sub 4-channel setup the dash tweets are unused, door subs are removed, and rears are also unused unless you want to run them from the new HU internal amp for some rear fill.

Most good aftermarket 4-channel amps can be ran as 3-channel bridged for a sub. The front components have a crossover that takes the full speaker level signal from the amp and splits it to each speaker.

 

Thanks for the advice and input. I am now so confused I am going to table the entire idea of adding an amp, or speakers