2012 GS Premium Bose System
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,322
Likes: 1
From: Bonney Lake WA
2012 GS Premium Bose System
I got all my questions answered very quickly by markcz! THANKS very much for his experienced and much needed reply! Really appreciate ALL the help Forum members have provided me since I joined in 2001. It really helps to know folks are out there who really CARE! Thanks again Mark!
Donn
Last edited by Donn'sCpe; May 11, 2014 at 02:06 PM. Reason: Questions Answered
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
The '06 and '12 systems are very similar, but not exactly the same. Biggest difference is that the door subs are fed line-level signals in the '06, then the subs are self amplified. In the '12 the bose amp sends out a speaker level signal to the subs. If you were to swap any parts out, you'd have to do both the amp and door subs together if you did either at all.
The '12 system also has the door mids and dash tweets wired to the same amp output channel, so ohm ratings may have changed. I can prob verify that next week with my '12 takeoffs.
Did you get the new dash tweets also? IMO that's the only difference that you'd notice.
I'm pretty sure that the 3.5" speakers in the '12 door panels are the same as the ones in your '06. You can prob verify the part numbers on the speakers. If anything, the '12 set may have a different ohm rating.
The '06 prints and pinouts are HERE (technically they're from an '07 manual), and I have the '12 prints at home, but I'm not there at the moment. Next week I can verify plug pins are the same, but we already know the subs are different. I've been planning on scanning the '12 prints and updating that post also....
IMHO, if you just replaced your 3.5" door speakers with 2-way 4ohm aftermarkets, that's about as good as it can sound using any years bose amp. Changing out the original 7-ch amp for the newer 9-ch is possible, but would prob be a lot of work for little to no gain.
The '12 system also has the door mids and dash tweets wired to the same amp output channel, so ohm ratings may have changed. I can prob verify that next week with my '12 takeoffs.
Did you get the new dash tweets also? IMO that's the only difference that you'd notice.
I'm pretty sure that the 3.5" speakers in the '12 door panels are the same as the ones in your '06. You can prob verify the part numbers on the speakers. If anything, the '12 set may have a different ohm rating.
The '06 prints and pinouts are HERE (technically they're from an '07 manual), and I have the '12 prints at home, but I'm not there at the moment. Next week I can verify plug pins are the same, but we already know the subs are different. I've been planning on scanning the '12 prints and updating that post also....
IMHO, if you just replaced your 3.5" door speakers with 2-way 4ohm aftermarkets, that's about as good as it can sound using any years bose amp. Changing out the original 7-ch amp for the newer 9-ch is possible, but would prob be a lot of work for little to no gain.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 31
Likes: 21
From: Central Illinois
The '06 and '12 systems are very similar, but not exactly the same. Biggest difference is that the door subs are fed line-level signals in the '06, then the subs are self amplified. In the '12 the bose amp sends out a speaker level signal to the subs. If you were to swap any parts out, you'd have to do both the amp and door subs together if you did either at all.
The '12 system also has the door mids and dash tweets wired to the same amp output channel, so ohm ratings may have changed. I can prob verify that next week with my '12 takeoffs.
Did you get the new dash tweets also? IMO that's the only difference that you'd notice.
I'm pretty sure that the 3.5" speakers in the '12 door panels are the same as the ones in your '06. You can prob verify the part numbers on the speakers. If anything, the '12 set may have a different ohm rating.
The '06 prints and pinouts are HERE (technically they're from an '07 manual), and I have the '12 prints at home, but I'm not there at the moment. Next week I can verify plug pins are the same, but we already know the subs are different. I've been planning on scanning the '12 prints and updating that post also....
IMHO, if you just replaced your 3.5" door speakers with 2-way 4ohm aftermarkets, that's about as good as it can sound using any years bose amp. Changing out the original 7-ch amp for the newer 9-ch is possible, but would prob be a lot of work for little to no gain.
The '12 system also has the door mids and dash tweets wired to the same amp output channel, so ohm ratings may have changed. I can prob verify that next week with my '12 takeoffs.
Did you get the new dash tweets also? IMO that's the only difference that you'd notice.
I'm pretty sure that the 3.5" speakers in the '12 door panels are the same as the ones in your '06. You can prob verify the part numbers on the speakers. If anything, the '12 set may have a different ohm rating.
The '06 prints and pinouts are HERE (technically they're from an '07 manual), and I have the '12 prints at home, but I'm not there at the moment. Next week I can verify plug pins are the same, but we already know the subs are different. I've been planning on scanning the '12 prints and updating that post also....
IMHO, if you just replaced your 3.5" door speakers with 2-way 4ohm aftermarkets, that's about as good as it can sound using any years bose amp. Changing out the original 7-ch amp for the newer 9-ch is possible, but would prob be a lot of work for little to no gain.
Sorry to pile on after the play here, but actually stumbled across this thread while searching for help with installing the 2012+ Bose system amp and 10" woofers in my 2006 Z06 (with Bose and navigation, without OnStar). Ironically enough, actually purchased this system from Donn'sCpe (did an impeccable job of packing this system for the FedEx trip from Seattle to Atlanta!) who removed it from my previous C6's twin: a 2012 Centennial GS.
Pulled up the two U65 systems in AllData and compiled a quick cross-reference spreadsheet. The obvious difference is the use of three connectors (X1, X2, and X3) on the "new" 2012+ Bose, versus the two connectors (C1 and C2) on the "old" 2006-2011(?) Bose. In addition, the 10" woofers also go from 5-pin to 2-pin terminations (which you alluded to in your post). All in all, seems almost everything can be converted with exception to a "Drain" (related to the in-speaker amp for the subs?) and the "Hard Top Connected Signal" (maybe this signaled a chime when the "fixed" Z06 roof went flying...reminding owners to take it in for a new top?).
Certainly do not mean to put you on the spot, but if you would not mind double checking this with any notes you may have, would be much obliged. Sounds as though you have quite a bit of knowledge on these Bose systems, and while I love my '06 LMB Z06, I do miss the (less-anemic) bass from my '12 Centennial GS...at least when not at the track.
Am beginning to second your comment that, while this conversion is possible, it may be more trouble than it is worth. But then again, no hill for a climber...or challenge for an engineer. Just need to find some terminals, new connectors, and an hour or two to re-pin this thing.
Sincerely appreciate your consideration and review in advance. No hard feelings if you do not have time for the eye chart.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
One of these days I'll get around to scanning my '12 manual and posting the changes in my original C6 Prints post 
There are links to Mouser and an a brief explanation on how to search for the new plugs you'll need in this thread.
From my '12 maunal, the U65 amp connectors are:
X1 = 6098-4713, 8-way F 2.8 Series (BK)
X2 = 6098-4611, 16-way F 1.5 Series (BK)
X3 = 7283-9076-30, 16-way F Kaizen 64 Series (BK)
You shouldn't have to worry about the 'drain' line. I have no idea what the 'hard top connected signal' is referring to, and since my '07 manuals are long gone I have no way to look it up, but I'll guess that it isn't needed on the '12 amp.
There are links to Mouser and an a brief explanation on how to search for the new plugs you'll need in this thread.
From my '12 maunal, the U65 amp connectors are:
X1 = 6098-4713, 8-way F 2.8 Series (BK)
X2 = 6098-4611, 16-way F 1.5 Series (BK)
X3 = 7283-9076-30, 16-way F Kaizen 64 Series (BK)
You shouldn't have to worry about the 'drain' line. I have no idea what the 'hard top connected signal' is referring to, and since my '07 manuals are long gone I have no way to look it up, but I'll guess that it isn't needed on the '12 amp.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 31
Likes: 21
From: Central Illinois
One of these days I'll get around to scanning my '12 manual and posting the changes in my original C6 Prints post
There are links to Mouser and an a brief explanation on how to search for the new plugs you'll need in this thread.
From my '12 maunal, the U65 amp connectors are:
X1 = 6098-4713, 8-way F 2.8 Series (BK)
X2 = 6098-4611, 16-way F 1.5 Series (BK)
X3 = 7283-9076-30, 16-way F Kaizen 64 Series (BK)
You shouldn't have to worry about the 'drain' line. I have no idea what the 'hard top connected signal' is referring to, and since my '07 manuals are long gone I have no way to look it up, but I'll guess that it isn't needed on the '12 amp.
There are links to Mouser and an a brief explanation on how to search for the new plugs you'll need in this thread.
From my '12 maunal, the U65 amp connectors are:
X1 = 6098-4713, 8-way F 2.8 Series (BK)
X2 = 6098-4611, 16-way F 1.5 Series (BK)
X3 = 7283-9076-30, 16-way F Kaizen 64 Series (BK)
You shouldn't have to worry about the 'drain' line. I have no idea what the 'hard top connected signal' is referring to, and since my '07 manuals are long gone I have no way to look it up, but I'll guess that it isn't needed on the '12 amp.
Thank you for such a quick response!
What you listed above for X1, X2, and X3 all match the AllData for the 2012 MY, so believe we are on the same page. Am planning to write the Drain (C1-E) off, but may need to get creative to feed a Vehicle Speed Signal (X3-16) if required. Will also isolate the battery supply/return wiring to the "old" 10" subs since the new speakers do not require it.
Will have a look at mouser.com (when it is back up...website looks to be down for maintenance) and let you know how this turns out (good or bad). Appreciate your help!
P.S. Have attached all the images from AllData for reference. Glad to get you pics of whatever you need for your sticky if that is easier.
