C5 Rear speaker upgrade
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 107
Likes: 7
From: Los Angeles California
C5 Rear speaker upgrade
Hello!
I am thinking about upgrading my rear speakers for my 2000 C5 coupe with JL Audio C2-650X speakers, and Metra 72-4568 adapters
Is this a drop in replacement, and can my stock system power these speakers?
Thanks a bunch!
I am thinking about upgrading my rear speakers for my 2000 C5 coupe with JL Audio C2-650X speakers, and Metra 72-4568 adapters
Is this a drop in replacement, and can my stock system power these speakers?
Thanks a bunch!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 107
Likes: 7
From: Los Angeles California
Thanks for the reply! 
For my tastes the current system seems to get plenty loud (so far).
I haven't been able to settle on the front speakers yet but I've been looking at this adapter Which lets me install a 6.5 inch speaker in the front doors.
I was debating getting two sets (4 speakers total) of the kicker DS65 or CS65 because they are much cheaper than the JL Audio speakers. Is there much of a difference between the JL speakers and the Kicker ones?
For my tastes the current system seems to get plenty loud (so far).
I haven't been able to settle on the front speakers yet but I've been looking at this adapter Which lets me install a 6.5 inch speaker in the front doors.
I was debating getting two sets (4 speakers total) of the kicker DS65 or CS65 because they are much cheaper than the JL Audio speakers. Is there much of a difference between the JL speakers and the Kicker ones?
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 212
From: Long Island New York
Personally, I like the sound quality of the JL's better. I would chose the C2 or C5-650's. which ever you do put up front you should definitely up the amps on them. The stock amplifier won't give the aftermarket speakers enough juice to let them perform their best. The rears, if you go with rear fill, can be powered with the stock head unit power.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
front improves with replacing the 3.5" twiddlers, if you did this and the rears you would improve the highs
the c2s are as much as i would spend for this upgrade, only so good it's going to get with the factory amp. the kicker ks or ds line would probably be what i would do, 1/2 the price of jl and with the limited oem amps i doubt there would be much of an sq difference
if you want more low end, something like a JL 6w3v3 blends really well with the oem amps where you don't require much in the way of output. this of course would require running a seperate amp
the c2s are as much as i would spend for this upgrade, only so good it's going to get with the factory amp. the kicker ks or ds line would probably be what i would do, 1/2 the price of jl and with the limited oem amps i doubt there would be much of an sq difference
if you want more low end, something like a JL 6w3v3 blends really well with the oem amps where you don't require much in the way of output. this of course would require running a seperate amp
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 107
Likes: 7
From: Los Angeles California
Are any of the three way speakers worth while in the front doors?
To be honest I'm rather disappointed with the low end output of the factory speakers, but don't have the budget yet for an amp and subwoofer yet, thus why I'm looking for drop in replacements
To be honest I'm rather disappointed with the low end output of the factory speakers, but don't have the budget yet for an amp and subwoofer yet, thus why I'm looking for drop in replacements
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 212
From: Long Island New York
Then you're probablly better off waiting till you could afford to do it right.
If you get cheap speakers for the front powered with the stock amp you're not going to be happy. Totally forget about 3 ways with the stock power.
Wait till you can get some good components( with nice low, midrange) and an amp or get a sub down the road and amp with a 4 chn amp.
If you get cheap speakers for the front powered with the stock amp you're not going to be happy. Totally forget about 3 ways with the stock power.
Wait till you can get some good components( with nice low, midrange) and an amp or get a sub down the road and amp with a 4 chn amp.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
If you're unhappy with the bass, then you should just plan on a new sub also.
Figure out where you'd eventually like to end up and try to only buy things that your final version will need.
Just as an example:
- sub w/box for $120
- 5 channel amp $150
- door components $140
- rear coaxials $?
- AOEM-Vet1 $40
Figure out where you'd eventually like to end up and try to only buy things that your final version will need.
Just as an example:
- sub w/box for $120
- 5 channel amp $150
- door components $140
- rear coaxials $?
- AOEM-Vet1 $40
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,028
Likes: 170
From: oregon
spend $100 and upgrade the 3.5s and 5.25s with something cheap.
or
get an adapter for the OE deck and or another headunit
then get an amp or two and real components for the doors and better 5.25s for the rear along with a sub. you can use a 10" for the sub, but, it will eat up all your storage space. you can corner fit an 8" pretty easily but cost goes up due to custom fab boxes.
the prices that one guy listed above would be either low end or great deals on used.
realistically, even if you're savvy
front components $200-300
rear 5.25s $100-150
amps are a wildcard, anywhere between 100-500 depending on what you want
a used 10w6v2 would cost around 200, box 100, or a scan speak discovery or seas L26 would be about 250 new
8s there is a little less to choose from. the 8w3v3 does well in small boxes, but, it doesn't really dig deep, good output though. i have one in a corner box i fabbed up. i have a like/hate relationship with it. if you don't mind losing the center storage space a good 10 is going to be able to hit lower since you're able to use more box volume and a bit more cone area.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 107
Likes: 7
From: Los Angeles California
Thanks markcz for the list, that helped with sorting through some of the things I've been looking at.
I'm going to start with buying the JL C2's for the rear, and maybe 3.5 inch C2's for the front after I install the rears.
Rather than getting a separate sub and amp, wouldn't it be a bunch easier (and cheaper) to simply get something like the Infinity BassLink?
I've heard good things about it on the forums, and the reviews are very positive. It gives a little oomff to the bass without rattling the neighborhood and provides a bit more power to the speakers! Seems like a win win...?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Sc3KPz1...-BassLink.html
I'm going to start with buying the JL C2's for the rear, and maybe 3.5 inch C2's for the front after I install the rears.
Rather than getting a separate sub and amp, wouldn't it be a bunch easier (and cheaper) to simply get something like the Infinity BassLink?
I've heard good things about it on the forums, and the reviews are very positive. It gives a little oomff to the bass without rattling the neighborhood and provides a bit more power to the speakers! Seems like a win win...?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Sc3KPz1...-BassLink.html
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 134
From: North Augusta, SC
A real sub sounds MUCH better than one of those. For $270 you could do sub + 5 channel amp compared to $210 for just the basslink.
The stock door subs are worthless once you get something for the trunk, so I wouldn't get the 3.5's. After adding the sub you can do amped components in the doors, that's where the real improvement comes from
The stock door subs are worthless once you get something for the trunk, so I wouldn't get the 3.5's. After adding the sub you can do amped components in the doors, that's where the real improvement comes from