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I know they recommend the JL Audio 10w3 but I was wondering if anybody had tried a Image Dynamics IDQ 10" with it instead. Already have the ID Sub from previous install, still waiting on the box to arrive in a week or two.
I put an ID10 in a Vettnuts box. It does fit but its very tight. You have to orientate the sub just the right way to get it to fit as the frame of the sub will contact one spot inside the box. It will go but it has to be spun around a bit.
Sounds great and hits plenty hard...(I actually keep it turned down quite a bit)
I put an ID10 in a Vettnuts box. It does fit but its very tight. You have to orientate the sub just the right way to get it to fit as the frame of the sub will contact one spot inside the box. It will go but it has to be spun around a bit.
Sounds great and hits plenty hard...(I actually keep it turned down quite a bit)
Looks very nice! Glad to hear ID works just as well as the JL.. figured the specs were close enough.
Looks very nice! Glad to hear ID works just as well as the JL.. figured the specs were close enough.
Couple quick ?'s
What are u running to it amp/power wise?
What's the panel in the middle covering?
Thanks for the post and pic.
The panel in the middle is covering my amps. I have two Alpine amps... A mono for the sub and a 4 channel for the 6.5" Focal door components and Focal 5.25" rear coaxial speakers. I don't recall the specs on the amps, I can probably find out tonight.
I purchased two of these boxes, and I am going to run some SSA DCONs. I was able to get one in there with some material removal but the other one is a no go. The cage on my DCONs is pretty wide and deep and is hitting on one of the sides. I am going to run a 3/4 spacer under the speakers so they will clear better, I also will have to orient then a certain way so the wire connections clear since they stick out. The boxes are very well constructed and the carpet is also done perfect. JL cages are narrower so they clear easily.
I would highly recommend these boxes but might need spacer or some material removal for some certain subs.
I purchased two of these boxes, and I am going to run some SSA DCONs. I was able to get one in there with some material removal but the other one is a no go. The cage on my DCONs is pretty wide and deep and is hitting on one of the sides. I am going to run a 3/4 spacer under the speakers so they will clear better, I also will have to orient then a certain way so the wire connections clear since they stick out. The boxes are very well constructed and the carpet is also done perfect. JL cages are narrower so they clear easily.
I would highly recommend these boxes but might need spacer or some material removal for some certain subs.
With the spacer it will be TIGHT for you to be able to store the roof without it hitting the sub. Even if it doesn't touch when you first drop the top in, check to see what happens when you have it playing music.
I didnt think it was that tight back there, I will have to check it when I get the spacers in. I never take my top off anyways so shouldnt be a problem, but would be nice to have the option if I ever decide to.
Another problem I have is when test fitting the boxes, the driver side goes in with a little work to get around the mount for the top, but the passenger side will not fit since there is some sort of unit in the cubby. From research it appears to be a onstar unit, which I dont use, unless it is always on, but I do not pay for anything. I need to either remove or relocate that unit. I have a 2008 and they seem to have moved that unit around over the years.
I'll be curious to hear what the you think after getting the DCONS installed, those were the other subs I was looking at before going with the ID IDQ. Looks like a stud of a sub that can handle ton of power. Hopefully they are reasonably efficient as well since amp space can be limited.
Another problem I have is when test fitting the boxes, the driver side goes in with a little work to get around the mount for the top, but the passenger side will not fit since there is some sort of unit in the cubby. From research it appears to be a onstar unit, which I dont use, unless it is always on, but I do not pay for anything. I need to either remove or relocate that unit. I have a 2008 and they seem to have moved that unit around over the years.
You can't just unplug the box and remove it. The cars data bus wire is daisy chained through the onstar box, so if you remove it without installing some type of jumper on the wires your car won't run. There are several posts that show how to do the jumper, you can find them with a search.
I cant wait, I am running a Kicker KX800.1, rated at 940 watts. That should do the trick. I just preorder the Pioneer 4100 nex yesterday so it may be a month or so before I get it all installed. If there is anything I hate doing it is waiting after dropping a bunch of money...lol.
I was going to go with Kickers but the DCON fell into the air requitements of the box, most Kickers required 1 cubic foot minimum, and I believe these boxes are .68, as it is I was told to run a bit of polly fill in there. I was going to go with the JL w3 also, but they got some negative reviews, and the DCON seemed to have a much higher percetage of positive reviews, although more scarce. That being said though, they dont really fit in the box.
I was hoping to keep the amps in the back but like you said, there is only enough room for the 800.1 there between the two boxes, and I will also be getting a 400.4 for the other speakers so I may have to do the amp rack right behind the seats, and I was hoping to avoid that so I can keep it all out of sight.
You can't just unplug the box and remove it. The cars data bus wire is daisy chained through the onstar box, so if you remove it without installing some type of jumper on the wires your car won't run. There are several posts that show how to do the jumper, you can find them with a search.
Thanx, Ill try the paper clip method and that should relieve my problems.