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I am trading in my C6 today on a C7 and I pulled out my amp and subs. I was wondering if I will be able to use them in the C7. Double D hooked me up with the Pioneer and install kit I had in my C6, but the C7 comes with nav. is there a amp kit to hook up the amp to the factory nav on the C7? Has anyone done this yet?
I am just starting my research on upgrading the stock C7 Bose system, and like the OP I would like to keep the Bose HU. I have a few questions:
1) Does the Audio Control LC6I take the place of an amp, or does it get hooked up prior to an aftermarket amp?
2) Is it mandatory to use something like the LC6i if you are going with the Bose HU?
3) Will the LC6i retain all of the Bose HU functions (EQ, Centerpoint, AudioPilot, fade, etc)?
4) Can the PAC ADD-GM24 still be used on the C7 Bose system (I'm assuming this plugs into the connector that would normally plug into the Bose amp, and then into either the Audio Control LC6i or an aftermarket amp)?
I am just starting my research on upgrading the stock C7 Bose system, and like the OP I would like to keep the Bose HU. I have a few questions:
1) Does the Audio Control LC6I take the place of an amp, or does it get hooked up prior to an aftermarket amp?
2) Is it mandatory to use something like the LC6i if you are going with the Bose HU?
3) Will the LC6i retain all of the Bose HU functions (EQ, Centerpoint, AudioPilot, fade, etc)?
4) Can the PAC ADD-GM24 still be used on the C7 Bose system (I'm assuming this plugs into the connector that would normally plug into the Bose amp, and then into either the Audio Control LC6i or an aftermarket amp)?
Phil
1 - it provides a line level RCA signal to be used as an input to an amp
2 - see post above
3 - yep
4 - Dennis will have to answer this one, but my guess is no or he would have recommended it. If someone can send me the audio section of the C7 service manual I can figure it out for you.
I've just ordered the extreme insulation kit from crazy cowboy to help with cabin noise.
As for the audio part, I'm thinking about doing the following:
-get rid of the 3 speakers in the dash as well as the rear speakers
-keep the bose HU
-Maybe use the Audio Control LC6I to improve the bose HU performance, eliminate any electrical noise, have the system turn on and off at the proper time, etc.
-replace the door speakers with a good set of 6.5" midrange speakers, 1" tweeters and a crossover.
-replace the 8" sub in the rear, possibly keeping the bose enclosure.
-Add a 5 channel amp.
-Maybe add a processor/eq?
Does this sound like a reasonable plan?
My goal is not to have the worlds best, or loudest sound system, but to simply improve the sound quality.
I've just ordered the extreme insulation kit from crazy cowboy to help with cabin noise.
As for the audio part, I'm thinking about doing the following:
-get rid of the 3 speakers in the dash as well as the rear speakers
-keep the bose HU
-Maybe use the Audio Control LC6I to improve the bose HU performance, eliminate any electrical noise, have the system turn on and off at the proper time, etc. I would personally go LC8I( adds bass restoration, a 7/8 channel and an aux input.
-replace the door speakers with a good set of 6.5" midrange speakers, 1" tweeters and a crossover.
-replace the 8" sub in the rear, possibly keeping the bose enclosure.
-Add a 5 channel amp. Bad idea, the Bose factory sub is made for that enclosure. 9 times out of 10 a aftermarket sub will sound bad in that enclosure.
-Maybe add a processor/eq? If you do a processor you won't need a LC6/7/8I
Does this sound like a reasonable plan?
My goal is not to have the worlds best, or loudest sound system, but to simply improve the sound quality.
-replace the 8" sub in the rear, possibly keeping the bose enclosure.
-Add a 5 channel amp. Bad idea, the Bose factory sub is made for that enclosure. 9 times out of 10 a aftermarket sub will sound bad in that enclosure.
I assume you were just responding to putting a new sub into the stock Bose box and not to using a 5 channel amp?
Speaking of the amp; If I'm running a mid range speaker and tweeter in each door plus a sub, do I need a 5 channel or a 3 channel?
-Maybe add a processor/eq? If you do a processor you won't need a LC6/7/8I
Which one would you recommend (processor/eq or lc6/7/8i) and why?
-replace the 8" sub in the rear, possibly keeping the bose enclosure.
-Add a 5 channel amp. Bad idea, the Bose factory sub is made for that enclosure. 9 times out of 10 a aftermarket sub will sound bad in that enclosure.
I assume you were just responding to putting a new sub into the stock Bose box and not to using a 5 channel amp?
Speaking of the amp; If I'm running a mid range speaker and tweeter in each door plus a sub, do I need a 5 channel or a 3 channel?
-Maybe add a processor/eq? If you do a processor you won't need a LC6/7/8I
Which one would you recommend (processor/eq or lc6/7/8i) and why?
Thanks
Phil
No I would not even put a aftermarket sub in a factory enclosure amplified. That Bose sub is specifically made for that enclosure. Most Bose sub woofer enclosures are designed to the the most out of a $10 paper woofer. Once you put a aftermarket sub in it, it doesn't respond well.
I would go with a 5 channel digital amp.
If you want the best sound quality reproduction available go with a processor. You can fine tune the system more with a processor.
If you want something more simple,budget friendly and want good sound thats louder (still a improvement over stock) go with a LC6/7/8
If the Bose sub enclosure is sealed it's hard to mess it up by changing the woofer. I would just check if its' ported, if not, most aftermarket woofers will do fine.
If the Bose sub enclosure is sealed it's hard to mess it up by changing the woofer. I would just check if its' ported, if not, most aftermarket woofers will do fine.
Its the opposite. Its very easy to mess up the sound by just replacing the woofer.
A) That enclosure was made specifically for that woofer.
B) The material of that enclosure is around 1/4'' plastic.
That is not conducive to providing enough structural integrity for
a higher output aftermarket subwoofer.
C) The location of the enclosure in the C7 is not made for maximum output. Its made #1 to be out of the way, #2 to add to the low end sound of the smaller speakers. Not maximum output.
JL Audio has been doing stealth boxes for over 25 years. Its a little more science involved that just swapping a woofer.
Its the opposite. Its very easy to mess up the sound by just replacing the woofer.
A) That enclosure was made specifically for that woofer. Ok, what about the enclosure is specifically made for the woofer? What is the QTC even? Is it ideal? Is it tuned to offset the shape of the car? What about it? I'm looking at it and it's just the biggest box Bose can make out of the available space otherwise unused behind the panel. I can tell you just by looking at it, it does nothing but try to maximize box size. No home audio box, no matter how intelligent, would take this shape on purpose.
B) The material of that enclosure is around 1/4'' plastic.
That is not conducive to providing enough structural integrity for
a higher output aftermarket subwoofer. How do you know? Have you measured the resonance of the box? What frequency and what output is it at?
C) The location of the enclosure in the C7 is not made for maximum output. Its made #1 to be out of the way, #2 to add to the low end sound of the smaller speakers. Not maximum output. Well technically the woofers in the door are actually larger, and have more enclosure room. I agree with #1, but I'm going to have to see the data for #2. By looking at it it's just maximizing space, which means improved output, especially for low frequencies. All of this applies to an aftermarket woofer too, I don't see the difference.
JL Audio has been doing stealth boxes for over 25 years. Its a little more science involved that just swapping a woofer. I disagree. Stealth boxes maximize space usage just like this Bose box. I don't even know the geometric stiffness of the boxes to compare or the properties of the materials Bose used. Do you?
Just so we are on the same page. Are you telling us that the OP can remove his factory sub(8'') replace it with an aftermarket 8'' and achieve good bass?
Also looking forward to seeing your build and how you tackle the system.
Can't wait to see what the sub enclosure looks like too. My research shows that the 8'' sub that's in the C7's
is a specific Bose one. I don't think the holes with match and also an aftermarket 8'' subs mounting ring
looks like it won't fit.
That being said you have a C7 and you could post photos of the factory box once its removed.
Just so we are on the same page. Are you telling us that the OP can remove his factory sub(8'') replace it with an aftermarket 8'' and achieve good bass?
Also looking forward to seeing your build and how you tackle the system.
Can't wait to see what the sub enclosure looks like too. My research shows that the 8'' sub that's in the C7's
is a specific Bose one. I don't think the holes with match and also an aftermarket 8'' subs mounting ring
looks like it won't fit.
That being said you have a C7 and you could post photos of the factory box once its removed.
Yes. There is a sea of options in the aftermarket. You can get more output, lower harmonic distortion, better low end extension. An MDF spacer is usually all you need to make the speaker fit.
I won't be messing with the stock box, I don't even have one since I have the 9 speaker system. I'm building something from scratch.
Anyone know what the replacement speaker sizes would be. I have several speakers left over from my c5 and c6 stereo replacement projects. Looking to find out what I have that will work and what will need to be purchased.
Anyone know what the replacement speaker sizes would be. I have several speakers left over from my c5 and c6 stereo replacement projects. Looking to find out what I have that will work and what will need to be purchased.
exact same as the C6...
3.5 and 10" in doors
5.25" in rear.
I ahve adapter plates for the doors as well
C7 Subs
is there a amp kit to hook up the amp to the factory nav on the C7? Has anyone done this yet?
