First, I am not very electronically inclined, so please bear with me!

Background:

I am running a boost a pump which is "Direct "hotwire" 10 gauge power wire to the boost a pump on a relay so there is no pulling high amps through the stock harness"

My car wouldnt start one night, so i left it in the parking lot where i was (but then it started the next day...no issues): https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tart-help.html ....It seemed like the fuel system was not priming, and my fuel pressure was zero.

I drove it the other day, and it drove fine, but when I got back, I decided to pop the hood, and believe I found this gremlin problem (I highly doubt it happened on that drive which was only 20 minutes)...I think it had been happening. Anyway see below - a completely fried fuse, which is the 30 amp fuse to the hotwire mentioned above. I pulled the fuse, and checked the fuel pressure gauge in accessory mode....it said 3...normally it says around 70 when cold pre-start

So my QUESTIONS are:

Why would my fuel pressure be zero (or 3 like it was when I pulled the crapped out fuse), and the car fail to start if the fuse to the boost a pump was blown? Wouldnt my stock fuel pump allow the car to start? Nothing was even priming...

I dont see how that can be right....if the fuse blows, and Im driving I go 0 FP.... lean... kaboom? wtf?

Also...

As I understand it the boost a pump (vortech / ECS) should draw around 15 amps...correct? The fuse was 30...so...How can I check the amps going through that hotwire with a multimeter, safely? Through the fuse holder?...if so how???

Will the amps be different at priming in accessory versus at full boost? This is what could be an issue...

Any recommendations on what to do? Someone told me to check the relay (how do I know how many amps this is rated for???) to see if its in good shape...

I just bought a Maxiblade fuse holders and a MaxiBlade 30 Amp fuse to replace the above fuse holder/fuse....but I question if something else is messed up....

thanks, and sorry for the long post. :secret2:

 

Boost a pump controls factory fuel pump so if fuse blows etc you will have zero fuel pressure

Poor connection in house holder could have caused heat buildup

 

A standard meter only goes to 10 amps, you would need a current clamp for your meter to go above that.

A voltage drop test is where I would start to check all your connections.

DJ

 

Based on the condition of the fuse I would think that it wasn't seated properly and the bad connection caused it to build heat and melt on the spade instead of the element.

 

i replaced with a maxiblade with a heavy duty fuse holder and seems OK now.

That said, I still get some hiccups on hot starts....In the first 15-20 seconds of starting - she occasionally goes lean and stumbles a little.

Also still getting HIGH fuel Pressure (70-85 on cold starts)