Michael_D

My head is about to explode researching options…… I really just want to improve the SQ of the car’s audio system and update it a bit. My car is a 2008 Z06, with navigation. 3LZ model.

I’m not looking for a top shelf sound system, but good quality. I don’t spend a lot of time in the car, as it’s in storage 6 months per year or thereabouts.

I’d like to replace the head unit with a reasonably good HU that I can use a memory stick filled with MP3’s. I always want to keep CD/DVD for those odd times that you need one or the other. If possible, I’d like to keep the corvette flags in the display, although I have no idea how I can do that…. Not a deal breaker if it’s not possible. I'd also like to have a rear camera, and have it display on the HU screen.

I’m also looking to replace the door speakers, and install a sub. Ideally, I’d much rather install two smaller subs where the two rear speakers are, than a sub box in the back. I kinda like having that littles torage box. That’s where I keep my air compressor, in the event I have to plug a tire (I do not use run flats). Is it even possible to install two small subsi n these locations? And if so, is that a dumb idea?

This car also has OnStar. I’d like to keep it.

I had planned to gut the interior this winter, and apply some dynamat wherever I can, including the door panels.

It’s been too many years since I’ve dabbled in car audio. I have no idea what brands I should at for the HU, speakers, amp or the subs.

My budget is about 2K.

I was surfing Double D’s wed site and gave up. Way too manyc hoices. I need some general audio newb guidance first.

0Double D Mods

just call me direct
608 854 2033
I can take the time and go over everything with you and options based on what you want to spend...
not every option is on website LOL

Dennis

okie08vette

Can't miss with Dennis. Best service and price.

lvestobwyked2336

Call dennis at double d!! Definitely worth it and he knows what he's talking about!!

Brett

Michael_D

Boxes are still showing up.... Dennis hooked me up with the electronics and those arrived a couple weeks ago. Now my sound deadening stuff is showing up.

I have a couple questions that are in the forefront of my mind right now. Searched a bit, and did not find anything. Seems as if a lot of the DIY threads are quite old, and many picture links are gone.

1) I went with the Morel Virtus 602 component speakers. Where would be the best place to mount the tweeters? I'm assuming they go in the A-pillars, but where exactly? And where would the best place be to mount the X-over? I have not ever messed with one of these component speakers before.

2) I also bought a small amp, Kenwood XR900/5 5 channel mini amp. Would it be best to mount this behind the pass seat, or up in the foot we.l area on the pass side? I see folks mount amps in both locations.

The HU I got is the Kenwood DNX892.

Sub is the C6 Corvette NVX 10" BOOSt Series sub box.

Dennis sent me all the other do-dads for the installation, like speaker plates, battery hook up kit, HU interface stuff.... I don't know what half of it is, but it looks like it's everything I need, then some.

Plantspike

would you mind keeping us updated on this? I'm watching to see if you go with a pillar mounting, how much that costs, etc. I'm interested in prety much everything your doing on this post. Thanks.

markcz

1 - There should be some 3.5" x 3.5" plates in the boxes, one for each tweeter. The tweets mount on the plates and the plates go where the current smaller speakers are on the top front corners of the door skins. The 10" oval shape plates are for the bigger part of the components in the bottom of the doors.

Crossovers can go in the bottom of the door, under a seat, in the dash, wherever you can fit them and are willing to run the speaker wire. I put mine in the door, unless you wash the car with a pressure washer and point it at the window seal they should be fine.

2 - Behind the pass seat is popular, but there's a chance at it overheating. I don't think that amp will fit in footwell. On top of the shelf right behind the driver is a good out-of-the-way spot for most people, or anywhere in the back works.

Michael_D

Oh..... I did not realize that the tweets could be installed in the doors. That sure makes the decision simple. Would there be an advantage to mounting them in the A pillers?

Also, is it better to use the x-over, or the HU? I guess the terms are active and passive?

I'm also playing with the notion of moving the OnStar module, to make room under the pass seat for a power seat adjuster some day if I get motivated. So I think I'm stuck moving it to the foot well area.

So many things to consider with this little project. No wonder people make a living doing this stuff.

I'll post updates and pics as I figure things out and move along.

yamabob

as far as mounting the Tweets in the A-pillers versus the door there really are several reasons to or not to. Some tweets respond better being mounted on axis and some off axis works best. Temp hook them up both ways to see which works best for your setup. I would more than likely not install on axis if you run passive. You will loose TA functionality. Active would be the way to go in that case.
Passive loses some of the finer points of tuning for best SQ if that is what you are after. In my case I hooked them up both ways and while I hear a difference-not huge. I kept them active ( my tweets are off axis) because I can't help myself with tinkering( to me it's half the fun).

Michael_D

Thank you sir..

I like the idea of being able to tweak. I was reading the manual of the DNX 892, and it appears to have manual speaker settings that would allow me to set the X-over points, speaker location, gain, etc. Has an EQ as well. I might as well use the HU, I think.

yamabob

Does it have network mode? If you want to run active that is the way to go. If not you can use the front's channel for the tweets and the rear channel for the mid-bass. Use the HU to control the x-over points. Little harder to tune but you may well be rewarded .
If you are running your phones Bluetooth thru there, you may want to reverse the channels as the front tweets would not sound that good carrying your calls

Michael_D

I don't even know what network mode is.....

I am installing rear speakers too. Fill only. They are Morel coax speakers.

The more I think about this tweeter installation and passive/active option, I am beginning to think I should just use the supplied crossover. If I go active, the HU is still going to think the tweeter and driver are one speaker, with one output, so would it not be wiser to use the crossover that was designed for the comment?

Starting to pull the interior out of the car today. Just missing a roll of MLV that I ordered. Everything else is here for the sound deadening treatment.

yamabob

Network mode in effect would allow the fronts to be HP for tweets-rears to be a low HP and of course the LP for the sub channel.
If you use the supplied x-over you will be installing these passive. You loose some power as the filtering is done post amp, where as it's done pre-amp in an active setup.
Gonna need more power ( motor) after you add the MLV. I added Luxury Liner Pro and crapped at the weight

Michael_D

Got the power covered. Roughly 600 at the wheels. I've been deliberating over going the other direction, to get back some drivability that was lost with this build.

But yah, I know the MLV is heavy. Butyl is heavy too... I'll be weighing everything, just to see how much weight I end up adding to the car. I'm trying to keep total weight under 75 pounds.

I'll read up on the manual some more to find out about the network feature.

Thanks for your help!

yamabob

600. Good start
Start at page 107
No problem-enjoy

ILLUSHN

I'm not much of a "tweaker", but I do like to watch a nice build take place. Good luck!

markcz

The XR900/5 is rated at 4x60wRMS + 1x400/600 -OR- 2x150wRMS + 1x400/600

The 602's can handle 140wRMS on each side if you go passive. If you went active you'd only be putting 60wRMS into the mid-bass 6", which is a good bit less than it can handle. Sooooo....

With that gear, I'd suggest bridging the amp to 3-channels and connect the front components passive with the supplied crossover. Then use the HU internal amp to feed the rear fill speakers.

That would give you max power to the front components

For A-pillar vs. door mount, the pillar would make the stage a touch better if you aim them properly, but IMO the amount of effort is way more than the benefit for a DIY project. If the money doesn't matter and you're just writing a check to an installer, then that's a different story.

Michael_D

Thanks for the input Mark.

I had not considered using the HU's amp. I had to look it up just now to see what it's rated at. (22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels)

I don't quite follow you when you say I would only send 60wRMS to the 6" if I run this passive. If I use the HU's pre-outs to the bridged amp, why is the power only 60w passive, but 150 active?

With respect to the A-pillar mounting and aiming, hasn't this already been figured out? I can't be the first guy to do this in a C6. Or is it due to the specific speaker characteristics that makes it unique, or require testing/aiming to get it right? (No idea about that, and just pulled it out my ****).

markcz

That's plenty for the rear fill. Just run new speaker wire from HU to rears.


Active needs 1 amp channel per speaker. Max power out of each individual amp channel is 60w. Mid-bass 6" would have amp maxed out, then tweets would be balanced with a fraction of the max available power on their channels.

If passive, you can bridge amp to put out 150w, which the crossover would properly split between tweets and mids, sending much more than 60w to the 6". You'd lose crossover adjustability (I'm sure the Morel's will sound fine ), but it would be louder


Do you have a source for pre-made A-pillars that your tweets will fit in? If not, how do you plan on mounting them?

Yes, when mounting tweets in the pillars it's the aiming part that can kick your butt.

IMO it's a lot easier to get the aim wrong than it is to get it right when mounting tweets in the pillars. You definitely need to get the system running so you can do test runs before making the mounts permanent.

Michael_D

Thanks again. I need coffee to better understand the amp/x-over thing. I realize that there neeeds to be one amp per speaker, but I'm still fuzzy why the HU cares if the external amp is bridged or not. Or were you suggesting that running active I would have two amps running the two 6" drivers, and two amps running the tweets?

As far as mounting the tweeters in the pillars, I was hoping to just find a spot with enough space to flush mount them. Just cut a hole in the trim and mount them. Or possibly use one of the pods that came with the speaker kit. Haven't got much further than that.