gpd132

I only made a change because the original stereo did not have bluetooth/USB playing ability. Other than that I thought the original unit sounded fine.

I went to Crutchfield and bought the JVC KD-X330BTS. I got the factory reconditioned model for $70. Its actually a bit advanced for me. I have no idea what most of the settings do. I have an older JVC in my truck and the "Dynamic" EQ setting is perfect for me. No such setting on this unit.

I also got the module that is needed to keep the Bose system in place. I connected all my wires per colors and instructions. BTW, the Posi-Products wiring harness connectors are worth their weight in gold!!! I plugged the module up and plugged in the new head unit. I did have one plug from the original unit that had no place to go in the new setup. And the shitty instructions from the manufacturers and Crutchfield did not address that.

I got the unit in and all the trim put back together. When the stereo first comes on there is about a 5 second delay in sound difference. There is sound but its very weak. After a couple seconds the bass kicks in. I would imagine that is the amp powering up. I don't know if I need to adjust some settings but when I checked sound coming out of each speaker (Fader all up front) there was no bass from the front speakers.

Since the instructions were crappy, I didn't make any adjustments to the module. There are 4 adjustment screws on it. It sounds like most of the bass is coming from the rear speakers. But again, maybe I messed up the head unit settings by fooling with something I had no idea about. Crossovers and such I have no idea about.

I have been reading some old posts about C5 stereos. There are a few recommendations about replacing the rear speakers and the front speakers, but not the Bose woofers and amp. I would assume this would still keep the Bose system running as usual.

For the rears, Crutchfield has JBL Stage 602, 6 3/4, 2-way speakers for $40. It has pretty good reviews and I just want something better than factory, nothing over the top expensive.

For the doors, I saw alot of people recommending the Polk DB-351, 3 1/2, coaxial speakers. Amazon has them for $50.

If I can get my head unit and Bose module dialed in right and add the new speakers I think that would be a nice small upgrade for a minimal price.

Rob 02

I am not familiar with your particular head unit but I am familiar with the C5 and the rest of the electronics.

What module, PAC ROEM Vet 1 or Metra? Either way Here is how they work:
The power to the head unit supplies power to the 3.5" front speakers and 6.5" rear speakers. The wire harness interface creates a signal that goes to the Bose processor which in turn supplies a signal to the woofers in the doors.

My first guess is that the door woofers aren't working. Try turning the adjustments on the module as that is what they control (the woofer volume).

Rob 02

If this works then you may want to readjust it when you get new speakers because they will probably have a higher efficiency than the stock crap. I would try to mount the interface somewhere where you can get to it later.

Sorry for your frustration but don't go through all the trouble of putting things back together until you test it as a general rule. Do it nice or do it twice!

gpd132

Crutchfield threw in the Metra. The woofers worked with the old head unit so I think its just "operator error". I also failed to "initialize" the module so i will disconnect the battery and do that in addition to adjusting the module. I noticed there is a red light on the module that has not yet come on. I will see what happens when I re initialize it. They sure do have some bad instructions with that module.

Rob 02

Let us know how it works out.
I have a PAC ROEM VET1 and it worked fine except it doesn't retain the cars RAP feature (where the radio stays on until you open the door). I had to add a GMRAP module and pin it to an orange wire in the factory harness to retain this feature.

From what I have read the Metra retains this feature. Perhaps yours isn't getting power or that circuit in it has failed. Then again, with the instructions being written the way you say maybe there was some misinformation or confusion concerning the power wires.

I would double check the ACC and battery wires from the head unit to make sure they are not reversed or something like that.

Sorry I don't know what your wiring diagrams look like.

bravo29

Same issue. Used the crutchfiled metra xsvi-2004. I only had bass if I kept the screwdriver on the tuning screw. I kid you not. Take the screwdriver off lost bass put it back and I had it. No matter where the dial was. I was not putting an pressure on it either.


Called crutchfiled for an RMA.

Rob 02

^That almost sounds like a grounding issue. Then again I am not all that familiar with the Metra.

gpd132

So...after reading a bunch of old threads and making a trip to the local stereo shop for some free advice I gave things a try. Step 1, re-initialize the module which I originally failed to do. Step 2, adjust the screws on the module. Now I can report I have more than enough bass and everything sounds ok. It was hard to adjust those screws equally so I turned them all up as much as I could. I just dumb down the HU settings which are alot easier than messing with that module.

Next question is should I replace the front and rear speakers or just leave it be. Crutchfield has JBL Stage 602's for the rear for $40 and Amazon has the Polk DB351's for the front for about $50. I know factory speakers aren't the best in the world, probably even less so being 15 years old. Just don't know if its really worth it.

Thanks again for everyone's help and advice.

Rob 02

Absolutely replace the speakers. It will be the best improvement for the money now that you have a good HU. I am a fan of the Polks and JBL for 3.5's and agree with your choices for a low cost up-grade. I would tend to stick with the same brand for front and rear but that is just me.

Rob 02

Remember, for aftermarket 3.5 to be plug and play that the Bose speakers has the small spade connector on the positive instead of the negative. Most aftermarket speakers have the small connector on the negative so the connectors will have to be swapped somehow.

There are Metra wire harness pigtails for the rear speakers.

gpd132

I try to get everything from Crutchfield. The only Polk rear's they list as fitting are $170, and they don't offer the DB351's any longer for the front.

For the front, the only speaker they list as fitting is a $150 Infinity.

For the front in JBL, they offer the Club 3020 for $56 but they claim it will not fit.

Thats what led me to the JBL for the rear and the Polk on the front from Amazon. But I would rather get same brand from same place.

Rob 02

Corvette people shouldn't look to Crutchfield for advice. They will give more misinformation than advice. Ask them if they fit perfectly if you can have them for free? How confident are they about this?
amazon has them for $46.

Rob 02

The Club 3020 is rated at 3 ohms. That shouldn't be a problem

gpd132

I didnt actually ask for advice. I plugged in my car info and it spit out lists of things that fit or have a modified fit or don't fit at all....according to them.

Rob 02

Don't get me wrong. I don't have anything against Cruthfield, but if they can't give you what you really want, there are other options.

I haven't personally installed JBL 3.5's but have read a lot of threads from others that are using them. I haven't heard of a 3.5 that doesn't fit.

Rob 02

Okay. Their web-sight says that the Polk 351's don't fit my car. They fit fine.
I would get the JBL's if you want them.