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Currently have a Pioneer AVH-5700 in my 06 vert along with Helix 5 ch amp (BRIDGED) and Image dynamic's XS-65 comp's, and a Pioneer 12" enclosed sub.. Question is if i upgraded (or if it is a upgrade ??)
Would a Alpine INE-W960 have any improvement is sound quality.... A good friend of mine said no, and i would only gain Nav... But i always here that Alpine will edge out pioneer for sound..
Wanted to get thoughts as i have never owned a Alpine before. And i see where i can get a new one for 491.00 shipped..
If all i'll gain is Nav then i will pass as i will seldom need..
While I have not used the two specific head units side by side, I have had both Alpine and Pioneer and frankly liked the Pioneer units better. I felt they had better longevity and I actually preferred the sound quality. Since both the units you mention have 4Volt Preamp outputs and the same available front / rear / sub outputs, I really don't think you'd get any benefit from a swap.
If you're looking to make a change, the first thing I'd consider is a dedicated amp for the sub and look at what kind of sound proofing matting you have in the doors or other locations where you've mounted the speaker components.
You don't mention if there's something specific you're trying to fix with your current setup or just trying to see if it's worth the $$. Hope this was helpful and feel free to shout back if there are other questions.
While I have not used the two specific head units side by side, I have had both Alpine and Pioneer and frankly liked the Pioneer units better. I felt they had better longevity and I actually preferred the sound quality. Since both the units you mention have 4Volt Preamp outputs and the same available front / rear / sub outputs, I really don't think you'd get any benefit from a swap.
If you're looking to make a change, the first thing I'd consider is a dedicated amp for the sub and look at what kind of sound proofing matting you have in the doors or other locations where you've mounted the speaker components.
You don't mention if there's something specific you're trying to fix with your current setup or just trying to see if it's worth the $$. Hope this was helpful and feel free to shout back if there are other questions.
I did all the sound proofing and also Alum Channel's added to inside of door's.... And the Helix Amp is bridged to just run the comp's and is a 5 channel amp that run's sub... The two issue's i have is, The sound to me is muddied and now and then the sub will have a mind of it's own and wont hit very good or hard...Not sure if that is a amp or head unit issue... example would be and has happened ,, I get in car and play my fav music and it is like someone messed with the setting's but they are the same.. Then next day same music/artist and its back to ok again...
Last summer i went to the Image dynamic's XS-65 as they were suppose to be better than the ID-65CS i had... and only thing i heard was a whole lot better tweeter and hard pressed to say the 6.5 were any better....
Last edited by carls2004; Jul 9, 2017 at 09:03 PM.
Simplest way I've found to test out head unit vs amps is to get a splitter from your phone output to RCA (start with phone volume low), and play music from it. You'll quickly find if that sounds good or the same issues (thus determining if it's the head unit or the amps).
The on-again, off-again I've found with amps many times as they are starting to go. If I'm getting you right, you have 2 amps, one for the sub, one for the speakers, correct?
The approach I'd suggest is:
1) Confirm your head deck is not the problem (per the phone method above).
2) Have a separate amp for the subs and one for the speakers (which I think you said you have).
3) Adjust the crossovers on the speakers to clean up the sound so it matches the car audio dynamics (most components require some tweaking to get the sound you like as the baseline). Be sure the head deck is set to neutral (no adjustments) on the EQ when you set this sound and that you do the adjustments with the subs disconnected.
4) Adjust the bass out of the subs to give the right balance to the new speaker settings.
Clearly a bad or over-driven amp will cause tons of poor sound. If you find everything is good with the head deck and amps, the next question would be to look at the specific speakers, but hope it doesn't come to that. Hope this helps a bit.
Simplest way I've found to test out head unit vs amps is to get a splitter from your phone output to RCA (start with phone volume low), and play music from it. You'll quickly find if that sounds good or the same issues (thus determining if it's the head unit or the amps).
The on-again, off-again I've found with amps many times as they are starting to go. If I'm getting you right, you have 2 amps, one for the sub, one for the speakers, correct?
The approach I'd suggest is:
1) Confirm your head deck is not the problem (per the phone method above).
2) Have a separate amp for the subs and one for the speakers (which I think you said you have).
3) Adjust the crossovers on the speakers to clean up the sound so it matches the car audio dynamics (most components require some tweaking to get the sound you like as the baseline). Be sure the head deck is set to neutral (no adjustments) on the EQ when you set this sound and that you do the adjustments with the subs disconnected.
4) Adjust the bass out of the subs to give the right balance to the new speaker settings.
Clearly a bad or over-driven amp will cause tons of poor sound. If you find everything is good with the head deck and amps, the next question would be to look at the specific speakers, but hope it doesn't come to that. Hope this helps a bit.
Ive played with the deck setting forever and flat on e.q. BUT I WILL play with it some more.. again . lol
I have a great old 4 channel amp i could stick back in .. Boston GT-42
(always luved it) and run it bridged on 3-4 for sub and see ?... and add my used entry level 6.5 polk but keep I.D. tweeter's (better) wouldn't take long..to try...Just a thought...
My suggestion given what you have around is a slight tweak to the first test I suggested. First I'd run the output from your deck to the Boston amp and the Polks (disconnect everything else including tweeters, corssovers, etc). See how it sounds. If you like the sound then you can start adding in things until you find what makes it a mess. I'd really suggest running a separate amp for the sub if you can fit it - I can't tell you the difference this typically makes. So, that being said, here's how I'd go, progressing down the list so far as each item before sounds good:
* Head unit to Boston powering Polks
* Add Sub powered by Helix
* Add crossovers and Image dynamics instead of Polks
I'm pretty suspicious of your Helix am and potentially the crossovers but this will let you figure it out for sure
Ive played with the deck setting forever and flat on e.q. BUT I WILL play with it some more.. again . lol
I have a great old 4 channel amp i could stick back in .. Boston GT-42
(always luved it) and run it bridged on 3-4 for sub and see ?... and add my used entry level 6.5 polk but keep I.D. tweeter's (better) wouldn't take long..to try...Just a thought...
If you switch to Alpine, you will eliminate one thing for sure. Alpine's pre-out section is superior to that of Pioneer's. I had similar issues as you did with muddled midrange, highs not quite right, and low end that you couldn't dial in that hit hard but not right. I tweaked my Pioneer every possible way I could but could only achieve average sound. As a former audio store manager and installer, I believe I have enough knowledge to determine level of sound quality with a head unit and I just couldn't get it the way I wanted it. I almost started replacing other components in my system but I knew what they sounded like before I got the Pioneer. I went back to Alpine and for only $500 I thought the INE-w960 was worth a shot. Once I hooked it up, powered it on and didn't even have to tweak the settings much and right out of the box the Alpine flat smoked the Pioneer. It wasn't just a little difference, it was Ford Fusion compared to a Z06 vette difference!
Make the HU switch first and then see how it sounds before you touch anything else. Then maybe substitute your Boston amp and figure out where you're at. The head unit has to be right in my opinion if SQ is important to you. Then you can put the quality components after it to complete a high end system. Just my .02.
If you switch to Alpine, you will eliminate one thing for sure. Alpine's pre-out section is superior to that of Pioneer's. I had similar issues as you did with muddled midrange, highs not quite right, and low end that you couldn't dial in that hit hard but not right. I tweaked my Pioneer every possible way I could but could only achieve average sound. As a former audio store manager and installer, I believe I have enough knowledge to determine level of sound quality with a head unit and I just couldn't get it the way I wanted it. I almost started replacing other components in my system but I knew what they sounded like before I got the Pioneer. I went back to Alpine and for only $500 I thought the INE-w960 was worth a shot. Once I hooked it up, powered it on and didn't even have to tweak the settings much and right out of the box the Alpine flat smoked the Pioneer. It wasn't just a little difference, it was Ford Fusion compared to a Z06 vette difference!
Make the HU switch first and then see how it sounds before you touch anything else. Then maybe substitute your Boston amp and figure out where you're at. The head unit has to be right in my opinion if SQ is important to you. Then you can put the quality components after it to complete a high end system. Just my .02.
Just picked up the Alpine INE-W960HDMI for $506.25 locally that my work place (chrysler dealer) uses .. I think he goofed as i stated in a email to the place a price from amazon on a INE-960 which isnt H.D. He said he match it.. So i guess i got good deal and has the SiriusXM SXV300v1 Connect in the box..
Next question is do i need the e,brake over ride from Alpine... ????
Will also be digging out my old reliable Boston GT-42 now to try ...
Just picked up the Alpine INE-W960HDMI for $506.25 locally that my work place (chrysler dealer) uses .. I think he goofed as i stated in a email to the place a price from amazon on a INE-960 which isnt H.D. He said he match it.. So i guess i got good deal and has the SiriusXM SXV300v1 Connect in the box..
Next question is do i need the e,brake over ride from Alpine... ????
Will also be digging out my old reliable Boston GT-42 now to try ...
You did great on the purchase and I gave you a link in the other thread to the bypass. Please let us know how it turns out!
You did great on the purchase and I gave you a link in the other thread to the bypass. Please let us know how it turns out!
I just finished a partial install with wires hooked up... Bought a Pac-TR7 .
Fired right up and went thru quick settings....And noticed a better sound already with all sound setting's flat.
I gotta learn the deck, but i set my X over's @ 80 on the mid's and woofer... and slop @ 18...
The equilizer is what i gotta learn as it is alot diff than im use to from my pioneer deck.. But played with it some but had hardly any sub even if i went in manually and raised level ? or i missed something..
So then i went to sound setting's where you have options of rock /jazz/ect... so i set it to rock and then i gained my base and sub hits now.....
So im assuming it is the E.Q. i have to play with now ? in order to get the sub to hit where it should. ?? Or possible that 5 channel amp is creating issue. ? But it will hit if i i manually pick ROCK in sound setting's... Sort of what i had with the pioneer in which i had to use some of their built in sound adjustments...for it to hit.